Thank you for the replies. I got my answer. No weight.
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Yes, I even called Winston to confirm. The person I spoke with said that he owned one, loved it, and said that I probably would too. It does have a good feel to it. I am using Snake Brand guides, though definitely smaller than what Winston builds this rod with. I was planning on using size 1 guides for the first 4 or 5, in the lightweight wire.
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Hello all. I am building a Winston Boron IIIx 10' 4wt. It is a massive blank for a 4wt. When it arrived here, I thought there must be a mistake, as it literally feels like an 8 wt. This rod is for me. I have a Lemke reel seat from Snake Brand (which is awesome, btw) I have chosen a Bauer Lohr reel to go with this rod, due to it being on the heavier side. With the reel, the
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These are Kencor Magnaglass blanks.. I see they have a little bit of a following. Looking forward to re-wrapping and fishing these.
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Thanks for the replies. No, there is no value to these rods based on whoever built them, it is the blanks that seem decent, not necessarily the build quality. The wraps are old, not all in good shape.
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So today at a garage sale, my GF picked up 5 really cool vintage rods. There are a couple that are 30lb class, matched, a couple of 40lb class rods, and a 50lb class rod with roller guides. They all appear to be custom builds. I am told that the deceased owner lived in Florida. There was also a Penn 9/0, a very nice electric reel, and a Penn International 30. All of this came home with m
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Thank you all for the suggestions. I ended up buying a blank that Herb had in stock, a CTS Affinity X 490-4. I am still deciding on the 486.... Cheers.
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As the thread title says.. I am looking for a lightweight, 9' 4wt blank for fishing dry flies. Cost is not the biggest factor. Moderate-fast action. Cheers!
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All shaped now, very pleased with the results. I used a 'Dragon rasp' for the bulk of the rough cutting. It is a hand made rasp (hand struck teeth) that is frequently used among luthiers for shaping instrument necks. If anyone else uses rasps for cutting cork, check out the Dragon Rasp. They are not cheap, but they are sharp, and come in different grades. Not sure how it works on
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The handle is glued now. I am about to start truing it up. I think I may actually go with a full wells shape. The moment of truth is coming near. A friend nearby has a lathe, and is going to help me create the recess.
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The handle is glued now. I am about to start truing it up. I think I may actually go with a full wells shape. The moment of truth is coming near. A friend nearby has a lathe, and is going to help me create the recess.
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Hi all. I am about to build my first fly grip. It is going on a Sage One 5 wt. I am absolutely confident in my abilities to glue the cork, get the shape I aim for, and ream it to the correct size for the blank, so, no issues there. However, some questions remain..... I am planning on using a long drill bit for a mandrel. It is smooth, and there is plenty of smooth, unfit
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Ah no worries at all. Thank you for contributing. I appreciate it greatly.
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I was told today that they trimmed them. Maybe he was wrong. Anyway, yes, it was not a cut of anywhere near 4". I was hearing 'under or up to 1"' That a size 6 tip top would fit slightly better at the length he was speaking of. Yes, you are correct Joe, the balance is cut from the butt. Again, this was from the horses mouth, not mine. I am planning a
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Seeker makes maybe 8 production rods of different lengths, and different actions from only 3 blanks. Someone at Seeker, today, told me that for the particular rod that I was inquiring about, that they cut a tiny bit off the tip, and more off of the butt. I do not want their production rod, but I want their blank, and a similar rod with a few tweaks, and different components. This is a 7'
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Hi all.. I am about to build a Bass jerkbait rod, spiral wrapped, based on the Seeker React Pro blank #SBS706. I do not trust myself yet on selecting guide sizes. I plan on cutting the blank down 4" or so, a bit from the tip, and more from the butt. Thinking 7 guides and a tip top. This will have a Calcutta Conquest 100 on it, most likely running 8lb
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I am a newbie builder, so take that into consideration, but I just built 2 spiral wrapped rods. Both cast extremely well. One of them is a heavier rod, so it does not really count. The other is a tarpon sized rod, and casts like a rocket. I am a solid convert to spiral wrapped rods.
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I am told that these are Lemke seats.... Very good stuff..
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Just thought I would post a little feedback here.... I am a new builder, was looking for a top quality reel seat for a current build. I ended up choosing Snake Brand guides, and went with one of their Buckeye Burl, uplocking reel seats. The quality is fantastic. The metal work is beautiful, really nice. The Buckeye Burl is a really great piece ( I am a professional woodworker and f
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Ahh.. that pesky chasing the '10 ring' thing... I know about that curse. Thanks for the link to that article. I had read it months ago, but today I understood it way more. That is good stuff. Interesting about Sage not marking the blanks on the spine. On this blank, the dots come to 12:00, dead nuts, every time when rolling it under flex. When I sight down the unflexed bl
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Thank you Donald. So I have read some about 'spine' and am still somewhat confused as to understanding 'spine up', or 'down'. With the rod held in both hands, rolling the tip on a smooth wood floor, feeling for the spine, the dots on this rod are on top. Is that spine up? Or Spine down? In the book ' Advanced Custom Rod Building', it is suggested that building a rod so that the
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Done... Is this Dick Ross in Sandpoint?
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This is my first fly rod build, after several other rod builds which I am very pleased with. This is on a Sage One blank, 9' 4 pc, 5wt, that I picked up for a really good price ($250 shipped) The blank is straight, seems very good. The spine is marked with alignment dots, and it feels accurate. When the rod is flexed, the dots are on top. Am I correct, that this is the top of
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Thank you all, for the knowledge shared. The timing of this was perfect, I just built my first 3 rods this past weekend, and needed to do an under wrap without even knowing it! One of the rods was a Super Seeker 40-60lb, root beer brown. I wrapped the base in metallic silver size A, then the feet in an up-down of black, size D, leaving a little bit of silver exposed at the ends.
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So a 50-60lb Super Seeker blank might be a candidate for under wrap/ double wrap covering? It is getting Virtus heavy guides.
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Where to use a double wrap? Is a double wrap the same thing as an under wrap? Thank you in advance.
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Yep, .. +1 on the reducer. All is good and fine with the water, until one little bit remains in the fluid passages of the gun and decides to contaminate your finish.. I would not use paint thinner, or denatured alcohol, either. Acetone is safe.
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For a gravity feed spray gun, using the small cups of the 3M PPS system, and small (1oz) mixing containers, it is easy to mix very small amounts of finish to reduce waste, and, when it is time to clean up, you do not need to clean the cup, it is disposable. Gun cleanup is much easier with this system. Bill, I am curious about your suggestion of an airbrush... For clears, I w
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Spraying lacquer thinner to set the fan will not help, beyond maybe gaining some experience in watching fulid move through the gun, which may have some limited value. Every finish is adjusted very slightly differently at the time of spraying, unless you have a finish completely 'dialed in'. Water is a BAD idea in a gun you are spraying automotives through. When you get a gun loaded up
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As long as your fluid tip is the right size (1.3 is ideal ) the gravity feed HVLP is a good choice. Yes, there is going to be some waste, but the results should be good. An airbrush could work, but really, you should be able to bring the fan down on your gun enough to get the results you want. An airbrush could also be a total PITA that limits your potential, if it has diffic
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