Thanks Roger! About how from the back on a 6 foot rod would start the reel seat?
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Thanks you guys, you are all awesome. Michael, I don't understand your idea? Can you be a little more specific? Would you have a pic of your idea? Lance, how far up the rear of the rod would you start the reel seat?
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I am making 2 Jigging rods. 1 is 6 foot 2 and the other is 6 foot. What length rear and fore grips would you use? thanks Mark
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Is anyone doing business with Bob? I bought 2 blanks from them and he never responds to calls or emails now. I need the guide build spacing that he uses and no response. thanks
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Thank you Spencer!
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Thank you michael me
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Thank you Roger, Are you saying like a 5 min epoxy for touch up?
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Anyone have a technique to remove a burr from finished epoxy guide caused by a small piece of thread ? I assume I will have to apply another coat of epoxy. thanks Mark
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Herb, I am no expert on 2 handed casting. However, I understand genetics to hit a baseball. The thinner handle bats create faster bat speed because the hands are not as locked up as with a fatter handle bat. To me, (IMHO) having a fatter upper handle will help in not letting the wrist of the upper hand try and break easily. I also understand your premises of the lower hand being the power ha
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If I was smart enough to add a pic, I would show the handle I turned yesterday. It is nice to know the fatter grips are acceptable. It just seems to be more dimensional with big rod.
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On most standard spey rods, the grips are, (IMHO) to skinny. I have been experimenting with making a fatter grip. One of the concerns about 2 handed cast I have is to much wrist. What do you guys think about making the grips fatter? I feel it would take some of the wrist out of casting. I am talking about rods 12 foot and longer.
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I like the teflon tape also!
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Thank you Mike and Drew!
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I have an Alps RA801L2TR-SG reel seat. I am wondering what you guys do to attach next to fighting butt. I have recessed the front into the cork but where the threads are in the back, I am in a quandary. I have a ring with the seat kit, but it would be loose on the blank. So do you just epoxy the seat up to the butt after manders and put the ring in beforehand and glue it at on with the seat
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Thank You Seth.
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I am looking to build a 14 foot Scandi rod. I am thinking of Sage. However I will listen to you guys for a specific make and model. Thanks Mark
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark, > Herb's Cell 561 866-2155 > Mark - you may wish to un-hide your email. > Herb Thanks Herb I changed the email.
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herb, do you have a phone number to discuss options.?
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Quin and Spencer, Awesome info!. I like the idea that it may not be the way to pick out spey rods. That is why I am picking you guys brains on my ideas. But, because of the thread, I have already been introduced to a spey rod that I didn't know existed, (Meiser). It is great that the experts think so high of the companies mentioned. I am not one that ventures into something without doing som
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Thank you Quin and Phil. This is why I asked the questions. I never knew about Meiser. Now Since a lot of high rollers would think of Sage or Winston, Do you think Meiser far exceeds them?
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What do the experts say on the best spey rods if money is no issue? Wat rod blank do you think compares to them? Thanks
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Gary W. Jones Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have of late been using casting guides and tip > tops (ceramic insert) on fly rods. I really like > the look and they seem to work well. I'd like to > know if other builders and fishermen find this a > satisfactory practice? Gary Jones. > ([email protected]) Tom, I am focusing on
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Thank you Spencer!
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Herb, Thank you for your input. The only size recommended so far was going from a 12 stripper, to a 2 snake. That seems a little radical. Since the Chart calls for 4s and 3s after the 10mm stripper. I am going to use 4s and 3s on a 9'0 rod. But my question was what you you guys do to replace the 10mm stripper after the 12mm stripper? Thanks everyone.
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John Cates Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When working with cork rings we try to keep it > simple. In our videos we ream the cork rings > either on a power reamer that we build from an > extra or old blank that matches the taper of the > rod we want to build and some reamer abrasive that > we offer in 25 foot or 75 foot lengths or ream
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Donald La Mar Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm with Eric, a size 6 snake is a whopper even > after considering not all 12 mm strippers are the > same. > > Just finished a 4 weight with a low, 12 mm agate > stripper and a size 2 snake worked well. > > A 12 mm stripper and a 10 mm stripper seems to me > to be stripper overki
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I have a Rainshadow 5wt blank. It calls for a 12 and 10 stripping guide. Has anyone substituted the 10 stripping guide for a snake guide like a 6 or 5?
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Any issue with longer grips fracturing?
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Thank you Quinn! So much to learn...I am doing mainly spey rods, so big diameter blanks.
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What is the best way to hone out the cork. I watched a Flex Coat youtube which showed honing only a few pieces of cork at a time. Then they were all glued together. The issue I see is that you now put a standard 1/4 mandrel in to glue them up and it would be loose. Seems to me that nothing would line up and you would end up to honing a again. Am I to technical about this? I like the idea as
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