I built on one of those blanks a few years back and as far as I can remember the butt specs were accurate. I'd go with the size 18 or 20 seat, which ever you think will be more comfortable. They will both fit for sure, the 16 might be to small. Larger surf reels tend to have a larger foot that might not fit into the smaller seat also. Grip size and shape are generally just personal preference.
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Sounds interesting, I've got the stuff to test it. I'm going to put a guide on some scrap blank to see how hard it is to break free. If it seems legit I'll build a rod that way for the @#$%& of it. The uv cure stuff definitely doesn't look as nice but it would be kinda neat if it works.
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > brian rossi Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I think the key to that statement is 2000-3000 > > sized reels. On a 10ft rod with a 2 or 3k reel > you > > probably wouldn't need to go out past 23". On > > something like a steelhead rod
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I think the key to that statement is 2000-3000 sized reels. On a 10ft rod with a 2 or 3k reel you probably wouldn't need to go out past 23". On something like a steelhead rod throwing under an ounce it would be fine in most cases. On a 10' surf rod you wouldn't use a 2 or 3k reel. Most likely a 6k reel throwing 2 or 3oz. With something like that you'll want to push it out some.
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You'll want to use KT7's for the running guides. The KL7L will be the last guide in your reduction train. Should go KL25H, KL12H, KL8M, KL7L, KT7's to the tip.
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Ultimately, build with the guides you're most comfortable with. Since you've got 2 blanks it would be a great time to do some comparison though. The 8 tip works perfectly, that's what I use. I don't under wrap any guides. The single foot guides are plenty strong as is. The only way they are weaker is possibly bending from being slammed into a rock, stepped on, etc. I still use single foot
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Kw30 25 20 12 then 10's or 8's is pretty much the go to layout for longer surf rods that create ligher line speed. They space and bullseye perfectly. Going 30 25 16 10's will probably work well enough though. I would highly recommend trying out KL25H, KL12H, KL8M and KL7L 7's for runners unless you really don't like the idea of single foot guides. The beauty of the gsb blanks is the moderate a
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Wonderful, looking forward to it.
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Any chance we could get height measurements for the tornado line of guides?
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I've built two of these rods, both with kl-h guides and they light and work great.. Built one for myself that started with a kl-20h. I'm using a 4000 shimano with 20lb braid. Built one for a friend with a kl-25h. He's using a vs150 or penn slammer 4500 with 30lb braid. Like Jim said a rv25 or kl-25h should do the trick. I'd make your choice based on budget and durability expectations. The kl-h ar
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While a high frame kw25or 20 would be awesome, it would really only make a nice reduction train with kl-h guides (which would still be awesome). In order to use it with the rest of the kw lineup they would have to create a whole new set of double foot guides. I'm guessing maybe that's why it hasn't ever been created but who the he'll really knows.
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I contacted a few places about special ordering me some guides. They didn't want to do it and I don't really blame them, it's extra work for a small profit. I contacted anglers workshop about ordering the guides. Not only did they agree to do it but they got it done very quickly. Big thumbs up on there service from me too!
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I had the same thing happen and had to use a metal detector also lol. My guides were steel though and I'm not sure if it will work on titanium. I always check for tangles before every cast even though it's only happened once out of hundreds of tests casts.
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I used to cast and switch hands and it never really bothered me until I started flipping and pitching a lot. Then it started getting annoying so I learned to reel left handed, best thing I ever did. Not to mention once you switch you feel comfortable reeling with either hand which makes buying reels easy cause you can go left or right (as long as I'm not flipping with it lol.)
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Aside from ridiculously fast shipping they communicate very well. The Rod Room is always my first choice.
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I used that same layout on the first rod I built. It was a 10'6" blank. It worked well but I was using a smallish reel for the rod. When I upgraded to a larger reel I had some significant line slap. Of course I had done my testing with the smaller reel so it's not necessarily because of the guides. That being said the 30L can be to low for a lot of reels. Ultimately you'll see how it perform
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30,25,20,12,10's or 8's for runners is an optimal layout for 10'+ surf rods where you're trying to maximize casting. On a shorter rod especially if it's going to be used from a boat mainly dropping straight down you can choke faster like they are suggesting.
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To satisfy my own curiosity about the "wave" guides I put some 30'so on an 11' surf rod for West coast stripers. I'm not sure if they intended them to be used on such a long rod but I did it anyways. Not a single wind knot in the 7 months I've been using them, not they have been a huge problem in the past but it's pretty awesome none the less. The only potential issue (which I can't say
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Rodgeeks makes 4 piece 6'6" blanks. Made one for my dad specifically to fit in a carry on.
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Thanks for your responses. I'm certain it isn't the reel, I use that same reel on many different rods without any issue. I had the same problem regardless of witch reel I tried on it. No matter how tight it was put on there it had pretty substantial side to side wiggle. Sounds like nobody else has had any issues so I'll just assume there was some kind of defect under that hood that prevented
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I know these seats are quite popular with a lot of people. I built a rod with one a few years back (size 16) and found it very comfortable. I ended up cutting it off because it wouldn't hold my reel tightly (stradic 2500) without tape on the reel foot. I really did like the feel of the seat and would like to use them on some rods I have planned. I'm thinking maybe the seat I got was defective
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What type and color of thread did your kit come with? As long as it's not a ncp type thread it will be somewhat transparent with regular epoxy. It won't vanish but if it's a lighter color you'll be able to clearly see the guide foot underneath.
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I build rods in my garage where I also turn grips and plugs on my lathe so I have lots of dust around. The last thing I do before I apply finish is go over all the wraps with blue painters tape and have never had any finish problems. I'm assuming tack cloth would be fine.
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I don't know what they use but I replaced a guide on my dobyns rod a while ago. It's a savvy series probably around 10 years old and the finish was hard like you would expect it should be. No bubbles in any of the other factory wraps. Sounds like maybe they have a problem with quality control on the newer stuff? (If it's a newer rod)
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I've built a few RCKJB700-112 for the same purpose. I fish in northern California and it can handle anything i could expect to catch off the bottom.
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Build your handle and tape up your guides. Then put your reel on and run the line through. Flex your rod hard (but not to hard) and see where the line lays between the reel and the stripper. Make sure it's at a comfortable height for you to manage. If not change the guide size or you can mess with the distance a little. Reel height, grip size, and where the blank begins to flex all factor in som
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Always good to hear about excellent customer service. I have dealt with them before and there customer service is definitely top notch! Brian
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I have had the same problem before and I believe it was because I had touched some of the wraps in between coats of epoxy. Not positive that was the reason but that might be something to look out for. Aside from making sure I don't touch anything I started doing the coats as close together as possible while the previous application is still a little tacky.
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Just 0 now but on my first few wraps I did both 0 and 180
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So you have a piece of thread with distance marks (what ever you decide on) laying length wise over your under wrap taped down at both ends. Now you start your design using the marked thread as a guide. You can't leave the marked thead in there for more than a few wraps or it will be a pain to get it out. Bill is pretty much doing the same thing I believe except he is just using the thread to kee
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