Will, ICMNSG is a good alternative and I use them for most of my in-shore casting and saltwater rods. I have used them for the last 4-5 years and they can stand up to the elements. Anthony Lee
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Hi Will, The major difference is the foot print. MNSG has a broader base. From toe to toe, the width for size 16 is 34.7mm and its footprint is 10.0mm as opposed to LNSG's width of 32.5mm and foot print 9.0mm. The weight is not given in Fuji's catalog but I am very sure LNSG is slightly lighter than MNSG. Therefore, my preference is for MNSG to be used for salt water and LNSG for fresh water.
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Fuji guide height in mm: MNSG LNSG NSG 16 22 22 22.5 12 17.3 17.4 18.0 10 14.6 14.6 15.5
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Need some input on whether anyone has done simple spiral with micros. So far, I have done simple spiral on a GLoomis SJ6400 Slate using only Fuji guides: T-LNSG 8, bumper T-LSG 5, and the rest 6 guides all T-LSG 5 and tip T-FST 5.5 (1.8). The reason why I chose this set-up is that I could not find any tip top smaller than 5.5mm with a tube size id 1.8mm. Therefore, I have not tried Fuji's
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In simple English, we are talking about fine tuning a fishing rod to suit both the angler and specific application. There are 3 major critical consideration. 1. The blank must either be selected or custom made to suit the application. In most situation, one is at the blank manufacturer's mercy. But if you are a split-bamboo blank maker, you can most probably select the most suitable raw bamboo
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Eugene, Over the last 50 years, I have personally experienced the transition of fishing rod blanks and I dare say that I have used most of them in different types of rods and application. Even today, I have noticed Tom K, not once but may times, trying to explain the correct way of defining the simple term, "Action", which is a major characteristic of the rod blank. Ask 10 rod build
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GLoomis HS-9000-2 Mahogany (GL3) is a wonderful blank for both spin and baitcast. I have both, as I like to build rods in pairs, and up till today, they remain my favorite rods. The tip is wonderfully light, extremely fast and sensitive. I use them to cast live prawns without weight for barramindis and I have caught and fought some up to 8 kilogram in weight. Try them and you will not regret.
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Go with Fuji ICMNSG 40, 20, 12 x 4 and tip ICMNST 12 ( either 3.6 or 4.0 depending on whether you are going to trim the tip). If you are using 60/100 lb (braid/shock leader) and above on the 10,000/20,000, you may want to go 40, 25, 16 x 4 and tip 16. I have built many rods with the above combination on various blanks including the 760L. Over here, most anglers like it trimmed to 5'6" or
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After some 50 years of fishing, I just learnt from this forum ( Mr Tom Kirkman and the Common Cents System) that action is just tapering. This means that any blank, regardless of power or stiffness or materials, can be fast, or slow. A soft fibreglass blank can be fast tapering but that does not mean that it has more power that a stiff graphite blank that has a slow taper. I was told to read the
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Hey Guys, I am very sure action has nothing to do with power. Action refers to tapers but stiffness and power are different animals. Anthony Lee
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Fuji's ACS reel seat has 2 sizes, 16 and 17. Internal diameter (ID) for size 16 ranges from 9 to 15 mm at 0.5mm interval. Size 17 ID ranges from 15 to 17mm at 0.5mm interval. Cheers, Anthony Lee
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Thank you all for your wonderful contribution. IMHO, the line between an assembler and a crafttman is very thin. Except a few, most of us are just assemblers simply because we do not craft the most important component of a fishing rod, which is the rod blank. Unlike my very close friend who builds his own bamboo fly rod, he takes about 3 months to produce a single rod. He decides and crafts h
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The availability of rod building kits and components has made the art of building a fishing rod very elementary. In fact, what I thought was impossible 5 years ago, is now possible even for newbies. So, apart from classic bamboo fly rods, can the rest be recognised as a craft. Anthony Lee
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Billy, Do you think the height of the guide is more important than the size ? In all my surf rods, I use either the HVSG 25H ( 47.3mm) OR 30H (61.5mm) for spin and LCSG 20 (45.2mm) for overhead. These guides are much taller than their corresponding brothers ( MNSG 20 is only 30.2mm). I read somewhere that bringing the guide ring to the level of the spool height will work better than having a
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Mo, Sorry, I still use it but with 4 lb braid now. All my UL are from 1-4 to 6-10lbs line and most of these rods are 5' to max 6'6". Most of my stripper are 16 and they cast beautifully with 4 lb braid. Can't imagine how ugly the whole set-up will be if I were to use 25 strippers.
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Steve, Like Billy, I have stopped using mono for many years. I paid a 100 bucks for a spare spool for my Stella 1000 thinking that I could have one spool with braid and one with mono. After trying it once, I have never gone back to use the mono spare spool since. Do you mean that a larger stripper guide will work better with mono line for casting?
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Congratulation and many happy return. August......December ("Something is taking place in August of this year which I think will further this "fraternity" and do so on a worldwide basis. By December I think you're going to be amazed." TK) What can be bigger and better than RBG. If this forum is anything to go by, then, it must be really worth waiting for. Anthony Lee
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Thank you Uncle Russ for your suggestion. That's the reason why I post such a delicate and borderline question here. And I have got my answers. I will try and promote the CCS system here, especially with all my friends that represent the largest group of fly anglers. Apart from myself, we have in our midst, a very experienced bamboo rod builder who would definitely be interested to know the CCS.
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Tom, I have speed read the Common Cents System and it sure makes more logical and techinical sense. But I am still uncomfortable over the use of the word "Action" because it is simply incorrect to use it as such. If the word Action were to be used correctly in the first place, I bet there would not be any confusion. Many thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Hope w
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Tom, Once again thank you for your explanation. Funny, how words can be used out of context. Slow and fast are not speed but action and action is static and not a word to describe the use of energy in some sort of process. As you said many times, the fishes will not know the difference, so, why must the fishing hobby be so complex even the academics do not understand. Anthony Lee
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Tom, Your explanation is crystal clear but I am still confused as all this questioning began because someone asked me for a faster blank. When I asked for clarification what he meant by faster, he said he prefered a Gloomis GLX over the IMX as it's higher in modulus, so it should be faster. He was comparing a MB783GLX over the MB783IMX. To most here, fast refers more to speed than taper or f
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Stan, Thanks, very helpfull. Shall digest it as this is very interesting.
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Sorry guys, but I am still not too clear. It seems that the flex of a blank depends on both its taper and materials used to manufacture the blank. The latter is inherent of the blank and by cropping it we may change a little bit of the taper but not so much if it's action to an extent where it's noticecable . The defination of action as quoted above refers to the degree and probably the speed of
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Then the terms, slow, medium, fast and X-fast, should not be related to blank taper but flex. Which brings me to the next question, can we change the action of a blank by cropping it?
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So action refers blank tapers not speed of recovery when a blank is flexed. Then, how do we compare 2 blanks, both having identical tapers, but one is fibreglas while the other is a graphite. Can we rate them both as fast? Anthony Lee
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I have read it used all over this forum, on manufacturers' catalogs and almost every rod building conversation. How is rod action related to tapers? What is meant by slow, medium, fast and x-fast? Do these refer to action or tapers? Hope you guys can help clear up this muddle in my head. Anthony Lee
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Over here in Australia-Asia which includes Japan, our popping rod line classes are: PE 1-3, lure 20-40gm, line 30lb, length 7'6", butt joint. PE 2-5, lure 28-60gm, line 40lb, length 7'6", butt joint PE 6, lure max 150 gm, line 60 lb, length 8'2", butt joint PE 7, lure max 200gm, line 70 lb, length 8'2", butt joint PE 8, lure max 250gm, line 80lb, length 7'7&quo
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Mike, you guys are my inspiration and you, Billy, and the NERBS are just simply awesome. How can I qualify to join this elite group?
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Congratulation to all who contributed. And to Billy also as I was knocked of my chair when I saw my "roses" being displayed. Thank you Billy. Anthony Lee
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Whenever I use nylon thread or when I use mostly light color threads for my butt wrap, I will always spray paint ( White Flat) the portion of the blank where the wrap is going to cover. I do that to all my Tartan wraps. Alternatively, I will only use NCP thread and at least 2 coats of CP. However, you will always notice on close examination that white over white is going to be whiter that white
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