Of all the things in this world to hate, why do you and that person hate modern metal ferrules for bamboo rods? While some of the early metal ferrules did not work so well, the modern metal ferrules for bamboo are true marvels. Do you not understand how they are formed, how they are fitted both to the bamboo and the male to female fit, and why they work (hint: it's friction and air pressure /
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It is typically marketed as a way to both extend the life of ferrules and prevent ferrules from becoming stuck. I don't use it and strongly suggest to those who receive one of my rods to keep the ferrules clean and dry and to use no wax or lubricant.
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Agate dresses up a fly rod; it adds a touch of jewelry. And yes, agate is suitable for a 3 weight. I'm currently building another 1 weight with an agate guide. Two things to watch out for, the first of which is most agate stripping guides are sized by measuring the OD of the ring - not the ID of the agate. Secondly, be careful to caution the purchaser NOT to use a rod with an agate guide in
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One other thing; there is no reverse. So, for example, if you need to unwrap a few turns to correct thread that has wrapped back over itself you have to manually turn the rod backwards while maintaining thread tension manually. It can be done provided the lathe pulley is within reach.
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Yes, I still use it. I don't sell rods, my annual production is low, and I frequently wrap in a free wheeling, manual mode. Again, the lathe works but can be really irritating at times. Unfortunately the next step up is a bit pricey in comparison.
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Fred I have what is essentially the same wrapper that was marketed under the ATC name. Cannot speak to all sections of a 13' rod mounted at the same time, but can tell you the foot controller is a weak link that works OK for a while then must be disassembled regularly and the plunger contacts cleaned. And even after cleaning it is only marginally OK.
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Check out a Work Sharpe Ken Onion Edition knife sharpener. Tapering guide feet is still a pain, but the knife sharpener makes for quick work of pocket knives, kitchen knives, and those pesky guide feet.
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And then there is the grip; the caster's primary interface with the rod. Not just the shape (Wells, half Wells, reversed half Wells, Ritz, cigar, torpedo, etc.) but length and diameter ought to be custom to the caster's hand, casting style and expected use for the rod. Frankly, if the grip is wrong the war is lost before battle is joined.
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I'd first try a day or two of warm (80 degrees or so) environment if you can manage it. Assuming that does not work, a thin coat of epoxy EXACTLY measured using syringes to measure resin and hardener and well mixed is the highest probably for a successful resolution. Not a fan of solvents as they are hazardous and can create as many problems as they fix. If warmth and a final, thin coat of wel
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It also depends on the fly line. A "heavy" 9 weight WF on the 9 weight rod vs a "light" 8 weight WF line on 8 weight rod could certainly contribute to what you described as a dream vs a broom stick.
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Phil E is absolutely correct; grips are either oversized or more probably undersized. On-size-fits-all is OK for some baseball caps but not for fly rod grips. This is an area where "custom" really ought to mean "custom fit".
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Phil E is absolutely correct; grips are either oversized or more probably undersized. On-size-fits-all is OK for some baseball caps but not for fly rod grips. This is an area where "custom" really ought to mean "custom fit".
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Christian I assume you are asking about fly rod grips. If so the answer is yes, there is, or used to be, a method to the madness that stood in place of today's one-sizer-fits-all mentality. Get a copy of Bamboo Heresies and turn to Chapter 9. Here is a link to the publisher's site It is very much worth the $s and time to read.
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For silk I'm having good results using Al's Color Rite. Color is dull until the epoxy or spar is applied then it pops back. For nylon Chromaseal is sort of OK but nothing I've tried yet is great.
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Guy There is just enough truth in the video you watched to be wrong. I know that sounds strange but hang with me. Yes, for many if not most blanks or blank sections there is a weak or soft side and a hard or strong side ("the spine"). This is true for bamboo, carbon fiber, composites, etc. and there can be more than one spine. Where things go sideways (so to speak) is assuming th
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Aaron The obvious missing consideration is $. While I too prefer cork, it seems every year the quality declines and the price increases. At this rate it will not be long before a 7" fly rod grip exceeds the price of a high end reel seat.
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I don't think you're going to like the look. While most "blacks" are actually either a deep red or blue, even the white glass is not going to do much for the black. Try some test wraps with deep reds, greens, & blue. It will be just as dramatic contrast from wrap to blank and you will see some translucence, especially so for chrome guide feet.
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How about adapting a chrome finish aluminum fly reel seat (up locking) for a spinning reel?
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A 15 pound carp on a 5 weight fly blank? I'm curious. Why put a casting reel loaded with braid on a 5 weight fly rod to cast a 1 g lure? Why not use the Bloke blank for what it is intended to be so that casting a 1 g lure ought not be an issue. ATC markets their MW18 as a casting and fly stripping guide and I've used them on a 6 and a 10 weight fly rod. The MW18 works OK on a 6 weight and
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Oh noooooooo! Just plain wrong on so many points.
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Zach Best option for you is hands on assistance from a builder in the town where the rods will be built. Failing that there is a wealth of fly rod experience represented on this Forum. And my e-mail address is not blocked but my responses might not be immediate.
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Yes, the wrap's matte grey finish after sanding will become gloss clear when the additional finish coat of epoxy is applied.
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Dan Roger is correct. Set the rod up as well as you can then understand that regardless of the fish's position relative to the fisherman the rod only "cares" about the load and bend imposed by the fisherman - not the fish. Yep, it sounds strange so think on it this way; a fish 100 yards out can result in no load on the rod if the rod is pointed directly at the fish. The same is t
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.Give the rod what it's taper wants even if the spacing between guides seems odd or not progressive. It's the line that is important. If the line consistently follows the bend of the rod you are done regardless of whether or not the guide spacing is progressive. Assume all guide spacing charts are simply starting points for static load testing.
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You've got options, and in no special order: There is a guide foot adhesive (it's a white stick) made just temporarily affix a guide; There is guide tubing of various IDs (this is what I use for small snake guides and single foot micro guides); There is 1/8" masking tape that can be cut to a narrower width, and; There is a wrap starting technique where the thread is taped to the
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Brushes are another personal preference item. Some use the inexpensive disposables, some use the more expensive natural bristle brushes, and others use spatulas. I use the throw away brushes and a dubbing needle. Use that with which you are most comfortable and confident. And it's OK to trim brushes or bend spatulas to your liking.
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Only perfect practice makes perfect but your wraps will improve. The number of wrap epoxy coats varies by personal preference, epoxy viscosity, thread weight, etc. As a general rule (as in general to a fault) a well practiced builder will need a single application of a high build epoxy and two coats are typical for a lite build epoxy. I nearly always apply two thin coats of a lite viscosity
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I'm with Ben on a 12 mm being a bit large. I'd try a 10 mm. For snake guides I'd think about a single #3 then #1s to the tip top. Size #1s are large enough to pass well tied knots when rigging the rod. The weight reduction, however, will be in the margins. I'd also think about adding a snake guide and take a hard look at the static load tests and make test casts to help make that decision.
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To the best of my knowledge there is no "magic" solvent for cured epoxy that will not risk damage to the blank. Sorry about that. Try warmth (not blazing heat) and an old credit card.
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Epoxy over a solvent is not a good idea. Use painter's blue tape to remove dust and foreign matter. Most decals apply better on a thin, level bed of epoxy.
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