Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

<p>Failed 12 weight</p>
Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Mark T makes a very important point; there is a big time difference between restore and refurbish. A restoration can be demanding, especially in terms of the components and materials used. Conversely a refurbish opens the door to the use of contemporary materials, components and techniques, some of which are arguably superior to those required for a restoration.
Forum: rodboard

Yes, you can re-wrap and finish using epoxy, but long oil, spar varnish has more "warmth". Yes, it is very practical to strip, re-wrap, and re-finish. It's is not difficult but you will need guidance. Beg, borrow, or buy a copy of Bamboo Rod Restoration Handbook by Michael Sinclair. It is something close to a Bible for bamboo restoration. Happy to help with specific, one off qu
Forum: rodboard

Kent's $10 wonders make. me look like a spend thrift. I'm now wearing $20 Toreges from Amazon. The polarized brown lens are close to the RayBan Brown 3 aviators I never flew without long ago. The ear pieces are wide to block side glare. And at $20 it is not a financial disaster when (not if) they go overboard.
Forum: rodboard

Pictures visible using the Google Chrome browser. They are not visible using Safari.
Forum: rodboard

You'll not like this answer - it depends. I've never needed a stint for both reel seat & fighting butt. A stint for both would be a very long stint. With regard to the fighting butt, suggest you first ask yourself for what purpose do you need a fighting butt and if 3" (which is a bunch) is too much. Understand a change of heart after the installation will not be a lot of fun.
Forum: rodboard

Clear, invisible, transparent or ghost wraps are not complicated. Send me an e-mail or let us know here if clear wraps are what you are after and I will let you know my process.
Forum: rodboard

For ultra narrow, black lines between cork rings use TiteBond III colored with black marbling dust from VooDoo Rods.
Forum: rodboard

I cannot remember the last time, if ever, a bottle of epoxy hardener had no hint of yellowing. It's just the way of the world, however . . .; I admit buying a fresh supply of the smallest quantity available to make invisible wraps.
Forum: rodboard

Have a heat gun but not used for rod building.
Forum: rodboard

What Michael D wrote is spot on. I'd round the dark, rubberized cork over to the joint with the natural cork and a bit more taper forward to the cork check.
Forum: rodboard

Just got to get one of those! Maybe two..
Forum: rodboard

Mark I don't know about wood, but have used TiteBond III with cork and wood barks (pine and birch) for years. My experience has been no failures PROVIDED the TiteBond III was fully cured before shaping the grip. I glue up grips on a mandrel, remove the mandrel after 24 hours in the cork press, and wait another 24 hours before shaping the grip using sandpapers. If I added something to color
Forum: rodboard

Derek I don't know from CP and nylon. But if you are using silk, you want Al's Color Rite CP and multiple coats. The first couple coats will cause the silk to initially darken as if epoxy or spar had been applied instead of CP. However, the original hue will return as the CP cures / dries. Apply additional coats per the instructions. I very rarely use less than 3 coats or more than 5 with
Forum: rodboard

In color theory 101 we were told there are very few "true' blacks. Truly. there are not. All the rest are actually deep, deep blue or red. So, if you did not pack well or maybe the thread tension was a bit much it could happen.
Forum: rodboard

Want one of those!
Forum: rodboard

Every time I use the Elmer's I feel like I need a shower. Roger is correct, it is the way of the world and cork these days. Nonetheless, after so many years avoiding the use of Elmer's and thinking unkind thoughts about those who used Elmer's, my hands shake and I feel dirty filing pits and voids.
Forum: rodboard

Dave The wrap tension need be no tighter than necessary to hold the guide in place while permitting the guide to be moved around the rod for the purpose of aligning the the guides after wrapping. The wraps should be sufficiently tight to permit the gentle use of a burnishing tool. Sorry those are not objective tension measurements, but it is what should be. You wrote your eyes are not so
Forum: rodboard

Phil You're in luck as I just happen to have two bottles left of my world famous Ol' Don's Snake Oil and Fly Rod Finish which I can let you have for the low, low price of $500 per 2 oz bottle. Just brush or wipe on a thin coat of this amazing elixir on a blank and watch it transform a poor quality, low cost blank into a superb, state of the art blank without peer. I await receipt of your p
Forum: rodboard

If you are asking about coloring short lengths of thread for inlaid turns you should think about India Ink pens in the desired color.
Forum: rodboard

Guess I'm the odd man out on this point. I wrap :"up the hill" from the smaller end of the rod section to the open end of the female ferrule. For me it makes for an easier and consistently better wrap. The exception is when a guide foot lands where the ferrule wrap should also be.
Forum: rodboard

Richard B's comments above are spot on correct. Be aware the interior "loop" of a Snake Brand snake guide is a circle, but not all other brands are circles - they are sort of a teardrop making apples to apples comparisons difficult.
Forum: rodboard