One of the guide inserts in my original Helium LTA is rattling around a bit. Is there anything I can do about it? At some point, I'm going to have it rewrapped with smaller guides, but I was putting that off until I got a little better at wrapping them myself. I really like the blank and how it fishes so I don't want to sideline the rod if at all possible. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!!!
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Adam, > Since you have a spare bathroom, why don't you > apply the finish in the spare bathroom? Hey Roger, it's a long story but I can't use the spare bathroom for wrapping. One reason is that the bathroom I used is actually just a tiny room for the toilet housed within the master bathroom. The rod a
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I borrowed a couple of small space heaters from my neighbour and was able to get the garage up to a comfortable working temperature, but definitely not 70*f. I warmed the epoxy in some hot water ahead of time and did a coat. It was slow going but it did start to set up. Once it was set enough that it wasn't going to shift, I brought it inside and stood it in the spare bathroom overnight. It cured
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Thanks for all the suggestions and guidance gentlemen, it's much appreciated! I'll let you know how it goes.
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The only space I have to work on rods is in the garage. I'm doing a guide replacement for a friend and we just had a cold snap last night with the temperature going down to -3*C. Will I be able to get the flexcoat to harden if I warm it up before I mix it and keep a heat gun running to keep it warm while it cures or am I asking for trouble...? Do I have any other options for getting it to cure in
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Thanks for all the ideas gentlemen, I really appreciate it! Rolly: I won't be home anytime soon. Hope things are well up there!
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Thank you Tom, that's exactly what I was looking for! Roger: will that mean a faster blank, or slower? Does anyone know where I can source the appropriate pieces to splice this rod? Thank you both!
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Hi all, I was fishing last week and hooked into a fish fairly close to where I was standing. I set the hook and must have either been a little overzealous or I didn't have the drag backed off enough. Either way, the rod snapped 21" from the tip on a 6'7" rod. It's a medium fast rated 3/16 - 1/2 oz. The I.D. is .158" and the O.D. is .203". What is the best way to repair this? I
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Thanks Nick, that's going to be really useful this
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An alternative to the FG is the Alberto which comes in almost as small as the FG and I find it much easier to tie with lighter line like what you'll be using. I'm not the most proficient with the FG and I know there are lots of people who can tie a good FG with light line, but if you're on the water an Alberto will be much easier to tie and nearly as small. I use braid on all 3 of my Tatula r
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Actually Chuck, I was thinking about some of the thicker heat shrink tubing Ive encountered over the years. Thanks for the clarification!
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Oh, nice! I didn't realize it is that thin. I was thinking it would be thicker for some reason. Thanks!
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Are there any thin heat shrinks...? There are a few grips of mine that I'd like to use heat shrink on without changing the size of the grip too much. Thanks!
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Thanks for the clarification Steve, sounds like Larry's gut instinct of the step down is bang on. I'm happy to know that I understood what you said about the dissimilar materials. Thanks!
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Larry Majkrzak Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > "FACT: The closer you can keep types of materials > in your build, the more sensitivity you will > retain and feel what you retain. (Carbon graphite > blanks, Carbon graphite grips, Carbon graphite > seats)" > > Would this apply to the fighting butt as well? Or > just the p
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Added weight reduces rod "speed." They do not > change the action, but the speed of reaction and > recovery. Again, it has nothing to do with how > many legs the guide has, but how heavy it is. > > .................. Thank you for clarifying that, I appreciate it.
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Double foot guides slow the blank as well don't they?
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Check these out too while you're at it. I don't know how thick they are, but they should fit the bill. I haven't used them (yet) but I may in the future:
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Cured epoxy should not be an irritant nor toxic.
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Thomas Kaufmann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jim, > that is one of the reasons I am going to try the > POINT Blank, it will be compared to North Fork > Composites HM as well as the Eternity, CTS, XMG, > Hydra, and SCV from St. Croix. It is going to be > fun to compare them all against one another. > > All of the other builds ha
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First off, thanks for all of the input guys! I actually really appreciate that many of you have differing opinions on the blank because it gave me lots of things to look at. One thing I noticed was that I shouldn't pigeon hole myself into a ML blank. There were a few suggestions that I would have dismissed out of hand simply because of the higher end weight range listed. After looking into it mor
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I think I may have found a nice MHX blank, but there's also a St. Croix and 2 Phenix blanks too... Quickly seeing that my $50 budget is probably going to be eclipsed if I want something that I won't end up selling or keeping and being disappointed in... MHX SJ842 PHX-S723M-B PHX-C713ML-B 2C70MLF Has anyone built on one of these?
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Thanks for all of the input guys, I really appreciate it! About the spinning vs casting decision: I have a number of baitcasters that, with the right spool (which I have) will comfortably throw lighter lures. The Duo Realis Spinbait 80 (9.5g) and 90 (14g) are what I will primarily be throwing. Plus, if I'm throwing them for a fair portion of the day, the lighter the setup is, the better. @Mich
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I'm looking for a spybait rod for the upcoming season and was thinking about a few off the shelf options. It seems like the consensus is a 7'ish ML fast rod is a pretty good place to start. Now, there are a couple of options mostly within my intended budget range *but*... What about a custom rod...? 7' - 7' 3", 1/8-1/2 oz, light weight guide train (simple spiral wrapped for fun). Which blank
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What about a honeycomb-shaped carbonfiber grip with carbonfiber laminated over it? That would likely be the most rigid solution, wouldn't it...?
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I've had the half hitches come loose as well but I wanted to see if the knot would fail without them so I fished it a few more hours. I didn't loose the lure but the knot did look a little beat up compared to another FG that was fished for a similar amount of time that day. When you say you ball up the FC, what do you mean exactly...? Do you tie a simple granny knot and then slide the braid wr
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Tony C Robinson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The FG knot is hands down the best braid to leader > knot. I use it down to 8# FC and I have never, I > repeat never had a properly tied one fail. I knew > about the FG for years, but all the instructional > videos were from offshore salt fishing where they > were using like 100# leaders. Th
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Yanno know something Ron, that would probably be the cleanest looking solution, thanks!
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Roger, that's correct, the threads are fine when the cork breaks away from it. Maybe I'll find some narrow tennis handle wrap and use that if I run into the cork breaking situation. Thanks for the idea Roger.
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Hi Roger. From what I've seen, the cork breaks perpendicular to the blank right at the front edge of the nut leaving part of the cork attached to the nut and the rest of it unattached from the nut. I could glue the two pieces of cork back together, face to face, but I'm not sure how long that would hold up. Should it fail, I'm not sure that I'd want to have it replaced with the same style of nut.
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