Thats exactly what i have on the blank. It is not large enough for me, and fits flash just under the edge of trimmed shrink tube. And it is a correct size for the blank. Unfortunately i dont know how to post picture here, but can email to someone who maybe can post it for me.
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One more question. Tried search option but could not answer. Finishing eva handle with shrink wrap over it, xflock to be exact. Handle is aleady assembled on the blank. Due to the size of the foregrip, outside diameter, the wrap was much larger and did not shrink down to the size of the blank. The winding check cannot cover the shink wrap completely, and fits just under it. I trimmed it to be fl
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You got it
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Thanks, Bill. BTW, it will be used in fresh water. I already have one built for myself 2 years ago.
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Hey guys. I have coming two builds for friends, both will be eva handle with xflock shrink tube over eva. What is your suggestion- do shrink tube on eva prior rimming and gluing handle or glue rear grip then shrink wrap, install reel seat, then do the same with front grip? Its large diameter eva, goes on rclb80 xl blank
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I use very simple solution. Reel seat is mounted on live bait rod where i want it for fish fighting purpose. To cast live bait with my rod with big casting reel for cats i use 30 inches pvc pipe. I found the pipe with inner diameter which fits snagly over the butt section. Just slide it over butt section, extend the rod to convinient casting lenghth, cast the bait, then removed the pipe. You can
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About a year ago i posted a question about converting fly blank to a spinning rod. I was looking for a bit more powerful and heavier rod then 1/5 oz. i ended up building 6 wt 8.6 4 pcs rod on cheap forecast blank. I actually loved it and as result built few more, this time for salmon fishing from piers in fall. Blanks were9 ft 9 and 10 wt forecast rx6, built as Spinning rods with pacbay micro r
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Yep, 2 coats of epoxy. You can do even more. Cp- i use most of the time even on ncp thread. Not saying its needed, but i get much less bubbles forming under epoxy and dont even need to use flame. Just gentle blow from a mouth to straw and they gone. I dont use cp for outer leyer only because i may disrupt pattern by moving thread with brush.
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I ve done black- silver. Blak nylon and siver metallic underwrap and cp, then black nylon overwrap with no cp. But it looks more black with silvery background. If u want gold to be main visible colour try black white ncp under and gold metallic overwrap, but i dont know how metallic thread is good for outer leyer. Someone should know better
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Thats why metric system should be a standard everywhere. No confusion and very easy.
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I use the candle from dollar store to rub a threaded mandrel. Any candle will actually work, but some recommend to avoid scented candles because the scent chemicals may decrease the bond between rings (read this on one forum few years ago, but not sure if this is true) Other option then a drill may be a vise. Secure the mandrel in a vise. Then just unscrew by hand
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Years ago someone has shown me this little trick. It is really easy to do, much easier then explain. Before the cast hold line with index finger and make sure the roller on bail is straight under the line. Then open the bail and cast using your favourite cast. But keep your index finger slightly touching the edge of the spool and sort of slow down the speed of line coming of the spool. When your
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I use fly single foot wire guides for tiptops. Used recoils on thornebro's rods as well. Its a bit tricky to wrap a guide to 2.5/64 tip, especially if it a soft flexible fiberglass blank. I would suggest you to buy few cheep rods from dollar store, strip them and rebuild, if you are just starting to do ice rods. This will give you experience and confidence in working with small diameter blanks an
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This winter I had unexpected "vacation" after injury and surgery and was not able even leave the house for almost three months. I rebuilt all my ice fishing rods and 5 other rods including centerpin float rods and casting. Still working on two rods, will be 7 in total. Waiting for components. Wnen I just started building rods few years ago I rebuild almost all the rods I had to learn ho
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Handling the fish is not an issue if you can see it. The rod and reel drag will do the work. Fishing is done at night and there lots of rocks. Very difficult to avoid them and not get snagged and lose your lures. With 30-40 braid its much easier to just pull the line by hand and break or straighten the hook.
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Thanks. That should work i guess. So, most likely it will be tidal-wave guides with up to 11 runners. If it wont work with heavier line i will use heavier line on other rod.
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What would be the heaviest line which can be used with m/w? The fish is 20-30 lbs fresh chinook salmon coming from lake Ontario. I can easy manage it with 20 braid or 15 mono. But the real problem with lighter lines are the rocks close to shore and fishing line on the bottom. Lots of snaggings and break offs because of that.
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I put m/w guides on 7 ft am tackle rod. But how will it work on 10.6 and heavy line? How many runners do i need?
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Spinning. Similar to the first one. Same handle with aero sest. Reels are 4000 series
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I am in a process of rebuilding a rod, StCroix 10.6 2 pcs 8-20 lbs. the rod was a factory built with casting guides and seat. I stripped the rod and now cannot decide what guides to use. I refinished one already, same 10.6 but 8-14 lbs spinning. I used Aero 16 reel seat and Fuji K guides for first 3, then size 6 single foot fly runners. I will be using same aero seat, but need help with guides.
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Last 6 guides are size 6 high frame Fuji tysg. For float rods with center pin reels we often use high frame guides instead of tip top. Anyway, the rod isrebuilt now and last section is in dryer. Turned out pretty good. I used same guides, but did not ununder wraps. And all the guides were nicely prepped by original builder
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Thanks. I do not think i gonna do underwraps. I just wondering what advantage does it give?
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Hey guys. Yesterday i decided to rebuild a rod a had for few years. I bought it from someone about three years ago with intend to rebuilt later. The rod is custom built CTS Afginity 4-5 weght 14 ft 3 pcs built as a centrrpin rod. I did not like the thread colour and it needed some cosmetic touch ups. When i was stripping the blank i noticed one strange thing (to me). The last four guides includ
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I am in Canada too. When i needed it I was not able to find Truoil here. What i use is Tungoil finish from Lowes. I use it for wood reelseat inserts and but caps. I also used it for cork few times. Makes it harder and a bit darker. Unless that is what you want you dont really need any extra finish on the cork. If it gets dirty just clean it with mr.magic clean erasers. Or soapy water.
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Brian, I have built centerpin rods on CTS, rainshadow, gloomis, st croix using different guides. Now i am waiting for minima titanium, so cannot comment on those as of yet. They will go on 11.6 rainshadow xst. I live in Ontario and we fish a lot in subzero temps, dealing with icing lines and guides. Size 6 is usually not enough for cold temps if you use ceramics. I built my own cts with flexli
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I just built one on Thorne Bros power noodle blank. I used crazy glue to glue fly guides in place first, just a little tiny touch of it on the needle point. Not sure how it effects the integrity of the blank, but I ve done this few times on tiny ice rods, with no complaints. Solid graphite and fiberglass, cannot say about tubular blanks. I also wrap my last fly guide and don't use tiptop for the
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Thank you
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Anyone knows ID for Aero 17 where you insert the handle? Lots of info on 16 size.
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I had this or maybe similar issue before with black fish hawk. When wrapping a thread i had some sort of white residue visible on the surface. Found out later after unwinding some thread from the bobin then it was just white talcum looking powder, which was being used on ncp thread. They both were packed in the same bag for shipping. Did you have your regular nylon shipped with ncp thread in
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I have not done too many tiger wraps, but what i can tell the colour you use for you final wrap will be the colour most visible. In other words, if you want it to be mostly green use green thread for your outer wrap. In my limited experience the contrast colours were needed for the first wrap. I used most of the time black and one of either white ncp or silver or gold metallic. Then the colour i
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