Chad Huderle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Casey, all the CCS is designed to do is give you a > couple objective measurements. Action angle and > ERN. A bathroom scale will tell you how much > something weighs but not whether something is > heavy or light. > > If an action angle is taken for two different > rods, you'll know
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Okay, so I guess what im not understanding is how the common cents method is going to help me. If I do complete all the measurements and get a baseline for the rod which I like, how would I then compare this data to a modern mfg. From what I have been reading the ratings between rods vary depending on mfg and the intended purpose of the rod. So my medium power surf rod would be different tha
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wow.... im beyond confused now lol
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Your ERN is just over 28. > > ............. thanks Ill try to get to the rest of the measurements soon
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rick sodke Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Something sounds wrong there. Most medium action > rods I have measured are in the ERN=10 to 14 > range. > Are you deflecting by 1/3 or deflecting to 1/3 of > the length? Sorry I should have said medium power fast taper
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Casey, remember the "365 cents" is the power and > only half the info. The other half is the action > angle. In time you will understand the most > important one is the frequency of the blank. > > Bruce if you really hate those rclb70ml's I'd be > happy to dispose of them for y
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and sorry it was 365 cents... Rod is an older conolon, 9 foot, medium action, fast taper thanks
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There was an expanded chart in a later magazine. > Off the top of my head 300 cents should equate to > about an ERN of 25. I'll check a little closer > this afternoon when I have time. > > I assume when you say "tip angle" you actually > mean "deflection?" > > ..
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you tube has a lot of info on the process
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So im trying to use the common cents method to measure the power etc of a rod blank I reall like. When trying to measure the power I came up with over 300 Cents needed to pull enough to create the needed tip angle. I then went to the rosetta stone chart but it does not go up high enough. Any thoughts ????
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I am also experimenting with hydro dipping. Not specifically with rod blanks but some other objects. From my very breif experience water temp is not all that critical. I just use normal warm tap water. I have always applied some sort of base coat and at times have also used adheasion promotor on the object prior to dipping. I have also used adheasion promotor as an activator with succ
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Casey Abell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bruce Kemp Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > The H is what I would consider a mod fast and > the > > m is just a little slower.You may like the h > > better as it is a little faster than the m.I > like > > a more moderate action for th
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Bruce Kemp Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The H is what I would consider a mod fast and the > m is just a little slower.You may like the h > better as it is a little faster than the m.I like > a more moderate action for the kind of fishing I > do.I have some Batson rclb 70mls that are awful > good blanks but are too stiff and fast for how
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Bruce Kemp Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Casey,I have built several of the mudhole blanks > for catfishing.I drift mostly with cutbait and you > wont beat them for price and toughness.I like the > mediums for channels and average blues and use the > heavys when I put out big baits.I have caught up > to 30lb blues on the mediums but would
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Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Casey, > > I print and put the whole decal on the rod. The > letters can be cut out. One option is to use a > computerized cutter to do the cutting. In the > scrapbooking section of craft stores, you'll find > the Cricut. My wife has one, but I haven't > personally used it for deca
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Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Casey, > > Take a look at papilio.com. They sell a variety > of decal media, white, clear, metallic, peel and > stick, water slide, magnets, static clings and > more. For rod blanks I use the white vinyl and > the holo, silver and gold metallics. The > holographic metallic media wil
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Bill Mihm Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No but have used Batson's line of e-glass on a few > builds think indestuctable. Grandkids use a couple > as dock rods and they stand up to the abuse. Very > economical too. I use a couple myself for > crankbaits good tip action. They are worth a > look. > Bill Thanks for the heads up... T
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Chad Huderle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Casey, I've been using the dry transfer method > from Pulsar for about a year now. Like with > anything else there is a learning curve but once > you get the hang of it, the results are great. > You can even do two or three types of prism foils. > Results are similar to the electric decals &
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Anyone used the Value - Eglass rods sold by Mudhole. Looking to build a catfish / live bait rod and am contemplating using this blank. Need to keep the cost down so thought about going this route. thanks
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on a side note this dry transfer method I have see has me interested. I have been looking for a way to produce metallic decals ... this might just be the ticket.
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corky fleming Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Question: The first coat of finish on which you > apply the color drops. Do you add the color while > this finish is still wet or do you need to let it > dry before adding the color? No I do not let anything dry... I apply clear finish then immediatly after add the colors.
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Jim Scott Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Casey, > After doing a lot of research on the forum for > decals and graphics i also came up with the work > of Nuno. The ariticle in Rodmaker about his work > was amazing. I contacted him for some info and he > was very helpful. I can tell you this, after > purchasing the same software Mr. Pa
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Hey everyone thanks for the help.... Im glad you mentioned Corel-Draw as I have been looking for a copy. I was trained on the software years ago when I was doing graphic design for a trophy / sign shop. In my opinion Corel would be the best program out there for doing this type of work. Most people around here are photoshop guys, but from my experience if you are doing one off work from scrat
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After a little additional research I found an article from a guy who was in the same position I am in. He apparently was able to speak with the guy whos work I am quoting and wrote a nice article on how he is generating some of his effects
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The more I look at his stuff the more the graphics look metallic. Unless there is something new out there I do not believe ink jet printers have the capability to print metallic. but maybe im wrong... whatever he does they are stunning
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Ron Weber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Try this, those 2 pics were his work. > > > c=26222&hl=graphics That link sends me to the login of another site... Was I to message him there or something ?
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Steve Gardner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Okay I didnt realize that he was making them himself. I thought maybe they were something like the rod skinz or whatever you can buy from places like mudhole. He has some very striking graphics.
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Any idea where to get graphics?
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Yeah I have been using a torch to thin things out. It fixes the issue but I have to thin it so much that the colors run together. Now on a side note I was able to create some crazy effects by doing this but it was not intended. From the videos I have watched people are not having issues with pick lines so im thinking that the epoxy doesnt agree with the paint for whatever reason
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