Looking to build my drum dryer... What are you using to turn it. are the typical rotisserie motors strong enough to hold up ??? Thanks
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I agree with 8#.... Im sure it is overkill but I feel that its easier to work with and I just like knowing I have a stronger material under the CF. Plus I cant tell a difference weight wise so I figure when in doubt go with overkill
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For those of you that have sprayed Klasskote i have a question. Is the clear a spray or are you brushing it on like PG
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Terry Turner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Some paints take up to a week to fully cure. Give > it a couple more days, you are probably going to > be fine. > > Hang in there. > > Terry Ive sprayed a a lot of 2k clear over the years... I wouldnt consider it cured until at least a full week. Granted you should be able to handle
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I use a DC drill motor... It was a cordless that had a gear reduction unit... works very well.
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why not just put a hole under where the reel attaches and use a syringe to squirt glue into the void
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Had an issue applying abalone to a rod the other day. For whatever reason as I applied the material it cracked lengthways up the material every 1/8th inch or so. I applied it using heat from a hairdryer just like I did the last time I applied and had no issues. Any ideas or thoughts on what to do differently. The only thing that was different between the last time and yesterday was the last
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All ya got to do is after spraying the paint or > clear is spray thinner thought the gun > I used spray guns for years doing body work > Clean cup thinner and then just wash the spray tip > Not that much to get a NICE finish on rod blanks > > Or > > DupliColor spray paint Auto
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here > > Sorry I was not clear. I meant if anyone found a spray can clear which provided results close to that of 2k I would be interested. Cleanign guns takes time and $$
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I build mostly larger live bait rods which are always painted. Ive used spray bomb and ive used true auto base / clear. IMO nothing beats true 2k clear. Yes, spray bomb works but its not as tough and you just cant get that deep rich color 2k clear provides. If you have the equipment to spray I highly advise going with true auto paint. I have seen the spraymax products but never tried.
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what are you all using for the wet layup.. ive read about people using everything from a typical resin like flexcoat to west systems epoxy
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yup thats most likely what I did.. I didnt seal the cf prior. Hopefully I can sand this all out and have a usuable part.. Thanks
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Per the articles on the technique in RodMaker, I > use Permagloss or Lumaseal as a topcoat for Carbon > Skins. These are vastly superior to any epoxy as a > top coat. Thinner, lighter, harder and clearer. > > I do use epoxy to wet out the skins and then cover > with epoxy as a sealer coat.
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For those of you that make your own handles, how many coats of epoxy are you using to acheive a smooth top coat. I have made several with great success but its somewhat hit or miss. The one I had on the dryer last night had issues with air bubbles popping but not filing back. I guess the expoxy set up too fast for the bubbles to escape. Thinking maybe I put on the first coat too thick.
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Out of curiosity how many coats of resin do you feel is best for your guides. I have been using the flex coat high build and knocking it out in one coat. I have never tried the lighter builds so was curious what benefits this method may have. It would take additional time but if the end result is superior I would entertain changing. Thanks
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If im doing a higher end rod I always use a true auto base/clear system. Looks great and holds up better than anything else Ive used. If its a lower end rod I will use the auto spray bomb paint from the paint shop. SEMS makes some pretty good stuff. I always use the adhesion promoters even though its probably not necessary. Down side to auto base/clear is you need the equip to spray it.. I
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todd larson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > what sizes are you looking for i just posted on > @#$%& some 14/64th in black and brown there are > alot more sizes out there just looked in my emails > sorry i did not read a email from you i might have > deleted it by mistake > my contact #8015999016 Im looking for roughly .60 - .70 or
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Hey Todd, did you ever get a chance to check on the ferrules for me. I sent you an email but have not heard back. Maybe it was lost in the shuffle thanks
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todd larson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > as for the ferrels they are in 1 gallon ziplocks > that are full i bet 200 or more per bag i just > looked there are maybe a couple thousand of them. > two bags of the aluminum ones are oxidised not > sure if they can be saved. > the worst part is i have no idea what they are > worth..
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todd larson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i have only gotten thru a couple of boxes there > are alot of penn,shimano,diawa,abu > garcia,mitchell,zebco,shakspire,finlandia,and some > others > spools,screws,bailers and a little of everything > else there are also 4 boxes of older factory > repair manuals,also found some boxes of older
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I used an old rotisserie motor that runs 2rpm.... Works well for me... never had an issue
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When I built my wrapper i used a piece of spring steel... its a lot like a springy piece of piano wire. You can find it at hobby lobby
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As far as scratching is concerned I top coat with auto clear. I have never had a problem with surface scratching. Dont get my wrong if you drag it in the gravel its gonna scratch.. but think about the abuse auto clear goes through over its life... hence the reason I top with auto clear
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I 2nd Solar Composites ... Great company fast shipping
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So can someone please fill me in as to what the drying box is for ???? Is it to hold in heat in order to dry the epoxy faster.. or just for keeping dust etc off the finish. thanks
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Ken Preston Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Billy Vivona / David Boyle put out a DVD on > decorative wraps that is quite good. Hey thanks for the info. I took a look at the intro video that was on youtube and am wondering if it may be a little too advanced. Im looking for something which starts from the basic layout and moves through the actual wra
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Chuck Mills Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can print on special paper, laminate gold > film, transfer that to clear film, then apply to > rod with spray adhesive. > > > /photo/4290/title/dry-transfer-on-tiger-eye/cat/50 > 0 > > > /photo/4172/title/do-it-yourself-custom-dry-transf > ers-21/cat/506 > > B
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Mark Newcombe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Pretty much any sign writer will have a vinyl > cutter you just need to ask them to make a cut out > of what you want to use the leaf on and ask them > to weed out the font not the backgroung this will > give you a mask. Stick the mask in place spray > your adhesive and the peel off the mask, y
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So I have been experimenting with Gold Leaf... without much success but thats beside the point for this post. I had a thought about how to use gold or silver leaf for lettering. Would anyone know of a way to actually print an adhesive or something that remained tacky onto a backing then transfer that onto a rod blank. This would then allow you to apply the gold leaf to the rod leaving whate
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Thanks for the recommendations. I guess I should have been more specific as im looking for videos detailing decorative wraps. Diamond wraps etc etc. Im looking to start experimenting with thread art for the first time and am having a hard time trying to follow this book thanks
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