Please disregard the above post. I spoke to Mud Hole and got that figured out.
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Thanks Todd, I do realize that one does not cast a quick fish as I fished the Kenai for 20 yrs. Let me put it this way: Like so many customers over the years this guy wants the rod to work for two applications. I try hard to explain to folks that one rod cannot do it all and it is best to build for a specific application and if the rod works for others great. IF ANYONE IS STILL FOLLOWING T
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Some years ago I solved this problem for myself by taping of the handle and above where the wrap will end and spraying the blank with Krylon Fusion paint, let dry overnight and wrap over it. This works on closed wraps and is not as bulky as a thread under wrap. My light colors stay true this way. It obviously won't work on an open wrap, but can if you choose to have the lighter painted open s
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Matt, I live in Dillon and sell some rods through my business; Big Hole Custom Rod Crafting. If it would happen to work out It would be fun to set and talk rods and building.
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He will be throwing quick fish with herring for Kings in Alaska and plans to throw bait for cat fish, so, I would say an ounce to several ounces.
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Hello all, I have a customer that wants two 11 ft. medium power fast action casting rods. He lives in Alaska and will fish Kings and also catfish when he is in Wyoming. I'm having trouble finding this animal???
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That's the shortest Penance I have ever been given!! lol.
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I decided to start selling rods in Alaska after 30 or 40 rods were built for friends and through word of mouth at cost. It was a hobby that was getting out of hand. That was 1993. I retired in 2003 in Alaska and now live in Montana. As I am now working a job which takes me out of state 3 weeks at a time and then home for three weeks I don't market myself locally as I believe I could have a gr
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I sure can't add much to this thread!!!! I have been building for a long time and have done a lot of reading on spine alignment. I try to learn and not just stick to all the old rules. I have come more and more to just put the sections of a rod together( I build mainly fly rods now) and look for the straightest alignment . Your guides and the pressure on the line through the guides created by
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This looks like it has been pretty well covered but I'll throw in a little. I built myself a RX8+, a very fast action. I have built several RX8's for customers with a lot of positive feedback. I am very impressed with Batson Enterprises efforts on this series of blanks. Many of the rods I build are fished in Montana, as that is where I am and my client base. I tend to talk this series of bla
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I brought up the Mar Ktruz Sponsor on the left and it is in Spanish which I don't speak. How do you get around that? Thanks, Doug
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I have been turning wooden handles and reel seats for a while. the Colt bits are expensive but work great. I buy the ones made for pen making as they are as long as I can find. They are great for reel seats. My problem is for handles. There may be no solution other than what I do now. I drill from one end and turn the blank over and finish from the other side. It generally works OK but some
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Something I have done for many years and have never had a problem with any parts separating is: I dip a toothbrush in alcohol and while holding the components tightly I work the joints over with the toothbrush and alcohol. It cleans the joints very well. I then wipe the handle assembly down with a rag with a little alcohol on it.
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Thanks Scott, I have built a lot of rods and have always built them as they come. I like the flat finish/sanded look as it makes the thread work stand out. Reading the above just got an old dog thinking, which can be dangerous. I built a couple of heavy cat fish rods for a customer who wanted them painted white. I had this done by Lamaglas for $25 each. I read a lot on painting ones' own ro
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Now I'm curious. On blanks that are sanded only, no finish, should you clear coat them? Is there a problem with doing the build as they come? Thanks for any answers. Doug
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I'm from Michigan originally and I once built my father a couple of rods for similar applications. I used a fly rod blank and built it into a spinning rod. He seemed to enjoy them very much. I did the opposite for myself while living in Alaska near the Kenai River. I built a 7' popper blank into a fly rod to fish for reds. It was a great rod for that application. Just an idea.
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Roger You hit it in your last paragraph. The Big Hole and The Beaverhead are fairly narrow rivers with a lot of bends and deep holes as well as shallow runs. We fish a lot of nymphs with dropper flies and keep a good selection of dries to be ready for a hatch. I use long leaders and adjust for depth by moving my strike indicator up and down the line. We tend to fish in close to the banks.
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Thanks for the input on this. I think I will make the cut off on the butt end. As this rod will be used near home for trout and is a 7/8 weight, it will be a beef stick on the Big Hole and Beaverhead rivers. Since my wife does not look at this site she will love that I made her a switch rod for the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers!! (she would rather row the drift boat most of the time anyway,)
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These two blanks have to be knock offs as they have no identification etc. I got them some time ago on a whim for about $20 and they just sit there. i wouldn't in good conscious sell the blanks or build for someone else. so, I won't be cutting up a good blank. Just a project to do.
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Tom, Thanks for the input. My thinking on this is I like the idea of the length of the rod for mending line while throwing nymphs. Since the Big Hole and Beaverhead Rivers don't require long casts and I am fishing for Browns and Rainbows, plus it is a 7/8 wt. it would just be fun to see what I end up with. Thanks
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I have a couple of 3pc 13ft. spey rod blanks that I don't have much money into. I am thinking of cutting one down to make a switch rod of about 11feet. Any suggestions on where or how on this? Thanks.
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Just a thought. If you are seeing the dark of the blank through a light colored thread, which as Walt above indicates is common and not just between threads, you could consider an underwrap of white thread and wrap over that, if it is a closed wrap. If an open wrap is used the white thread will show between the centers of your pattern. The latter can look good as a contrast but is up to indivi
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I did not see mention of a product called 'Bubble Buster" which I got at Mud Hole. I have used it on at least ten rods and have been amazed at how well it removes bubbles. I have thus far had no problems with it. I use it sparingly. I first and foremost mix the epoxy slowly and apply carefully to hopefully avoid bubbles or at least keep them to a minimum. One other small thought my old
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Peter, I turn reel seats and built a fly rod recently on a burgundy blank. I turned a stabilized Red Flame Box Elder Burl. I have a picture of five fly rods in one photo on my web site, customrodbuilder.net. I is also the pictured rod at the head of the home page. If that looks like something you like get in touch with me. As I am new to Rodbuilding.org and am old, I am unsure if I should
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I might as well throw in something. I use one of my wife's old hair driers on low heat if I'm under the gun to get a rod done. After a couple of hours drying time I then use the dryer on the wraps. warms them up and drys them well. I've done this for a lot of years with not problem.
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