Brook, It's getting better. The search engine still needs tweaking, and I've seen some weights and other technical stats that are a stretch to believe. I'm still hung up on the categorization of blanks. A page listing all blanks you carry would be good, then one could filter down to get a manageable number. Again, when we click on blanks we have to choose freshwater, saltwater, or wherever we
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Just a quick note on something I stumbled upon. I'm not affiliated with anyone or trying to promote anyone's business, but I've never seen repair tips before. These aren't ice rod blanks, they're designed for repair on full sized rods. They're sold in 31" sections in solid glass in 3 different weights and 23" and 27" sections in carbon tube in 7 different weights. The company's not
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Thank you both. As usual, straight to the answer requested, Tom. Did I mention how much I missed being away? As a ballpark, what thickness would you lean toward for an aluminum tubing extension on salt rods in the 15-40 range, using 6061 with an ID of .75? You should really do more videos, Tom. You're good at it--straight to what people want to see and need to hear, as always. I think you
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When searching for an item using the menu driven application we first have to take a guess at what application MH has categeroized that tiem in. For example, we think maybe a blank has been slid under "Freshwater". There's no way to know but to look, often times unsuccessfully. Since some things don't categorize well, for example a heavy freshwater/light saltwater blank, why not just gi
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It's been hard to find a lot of things since the new web site hit. MH, I respectfully suggest adding back in search by brand. It'll help those who know already what we're looking for.
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I've worked with foam and carbon fiber tubing and love it, but have no experience with extensions. The thought crossed my mind of possibly using a CF handle itself as an extension (Tennessee handle type). I mostly work with heavy duty eglass blanks where a huge amount of weight is located in the butt. Really, once the blank "shuts off", all that's needed is a strong rigid structure thro
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Hi all! I'm coming off a long and rough 5 year hiatus. Custody battle, Army division duty, insane hours and hideous miles driven. Had to totally suspend rod building. Now that it's over, it's time to slide back into the saddle. I've got a number of blanks on the way and will post Common Cents info when they get in, hopefully of use to someone. Anyway, I come off a 5 year break and see that m
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The 16-10 or 16-8 setup works well for the light line you mention. The 16 isn't much shorter than the 20--less of a difference than most gaps between reduction guide sizes.
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Another option is the Pac Bay lathe. This is actually a rod lathe motor, a short rail section, and the addition of a live center and tool rest made for the rail. The sponsors to the left carry it and you can pick it up for about $200. The advantages are that it's light and portable, which is a good thing if just using it for cork and EVA, it gives you a spare rod turning motor, and it's variable
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I registered for the photo page and it now works. It worked for me previously, that's why I brought it up. Apparently my registration got wiped out, as the registration dialogue didn't holler about my email address already being in use. Sorry if I was a nuisance.
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There's no one vendor that can be called the least expensive. It all depends on what you're ordering and how much of it. Some are higher on shipping than others when ordering small quantities and not all blanks are available everywhere. The best thing to do to drive down the cost is order in large quantity, as It costs a lot (each time) to ship that big honkin' tube. You'll find all the vendors t
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I wish I had grabbed it when it was up. I'm sure it'll be back after the Shimano lawyers finish their next exercise in futility.
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At the risk of coming off the wrong way (I'm trying to provide usable feedback), there's something going on with the authentication engine or the hook between the photo page and the forum. My browsers are current. I've set up numerous webs and databases under corporate level traffic and have a pile of certifications in web and database management, so I'm not tossing out random thoughts here. I'll
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Tried it again both from IE and Firefox, same errors on both. I logged in again on the forum, no problem, but got same login errors from the photo page. Must be a linkage issue somewhere between the authentication engine and the slideshow app.
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Looks great Tom. There is one little glitch, though. This happened to me yesterday and today. When opening the slide show feature, I get a message saying "You must be registered to use this feature", even though I'm already logged in. When attempting to re-login from the photo page, I get, "Invalid login. Please check your username and password, or register." and clicking the
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Matt, I'm aware of the search for a CB. I would still seriously consider the MB. Length, dimensions, and rating are almost identical and it would get him very close. I still say the best thing to do is call NF. If they have an exact match for the CB they'll know right away (point being they know more about the blank being replaced than any of us).
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GLoomis did stop selling blanks to the public. There are a few left from vendor's stock, but they're about gone. Gary Loomis is now with North Fork. The North Fork MB705 in IM is almost identical in size and rating. It may be a tad faster, but I would take a hard gander at it. The best thing to do would be to call North Fork. They know exactly the properties of the 843 and can match it up.
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Clyde, I'm not getting his desire to drop down to 30# or to over-line by more than twice (if using braid) what the equipment is designed for. Just to throw it out there, 30# and 30W are two very different things. The 270, for example, has an ERN of 57, so it's a 57 weight which is rated for 15-30#. Trolling, stand up, mostly tuna, and especially 50# line all call for your first instinct with
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Check out the Calstar 270. Available in 6', 7', and 8' and in eglass or composite. Known as the Chevy 350 of the salt and a monster of a blank. If it had to be one rod for whatever bites, that would be it. If he's going after tuna, I'd recommend 6'. It is, however, a very fast action. It's going to be near impossible to get a true moderate action out of a blank that heavy. The 195H is a beautiful
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Honestly, anyone who's hollering about $67 for a blank like that is of out of touch. You couldn't do any better for that application. Suggest to him that bassers have to shell out $250+ to get the best for their application and maybe that will quell his concerns. That is a VERY heavy blank, though. I'd want the H or even just the straight 6455 unless he's expecting to hook nothing but monsters. T
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Thanks Tom and Roger. I'm busy digging into the details. Very good information and exactly what I was hoping for.
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In response to my question on complex dado's a few days ago, the decision has been made to add a vertical mill to the shop. I'd appreciate any and all input, as they aren't cheap and this is a tool I'm vaguely familiar with. I've checked out the Sherline 5400 and Taig Micro and they look about right, but I'd like to hear from those who have worked behind these models or any others you would recom
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Thanks guys. Great advise from both of you. Mike, you have my attention. I took a peak at some of the minis and micros, and I think you may have just saved me years of agony. Plus, of all things, I still don't have a drill press--other than a tiny jeweler's model. Considering I can mostly do away with the router (which I never got along with), do my fancy cuts, make metal parts, and be adding a d
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I'm working a new reel seat idea and hoping for some advise. I'm using 1 1/2" square stock and need to take out the center section, cross grain, leaving the ends full size, and leaving a 5/8" wide x 3/16" tall strip down the center (length-wise) of the dado (for reel feet). The only success I've had with accuracy is using a dado bit on the table saw, then cutting and gluing in a 5/
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Weighted caps are a more feasible solution that an adjustable reel seat IMO. In my experience, it takes 4-5 inches of adjustment or more to compensate for a relatively small (<2 ounces) change in reel weight.
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With that rod and on those species, IMO a two speed would be a waste--as long as the single speed ratio isn't over 5:1. My Accurate 197 at 4.6:1 is perfect for that situation. I know two speeds are all the buzz, but IMO they're overkill until you get into cow tuna, marlin, sharks, etc.
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North Fork has the SJ545 IM that's close. Stats: 5'4", 8-15 lb., 3/16 - 1/2 lure weight, Med/Hvy
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Hopefully someone will run with the ball, Phil. IMO we're past due for someone to cater for braid and all the downsizing that's possible. I can really feel the difference between the 5 oz 500C and the 7 oz SS700. I guess Daiwa set the bar pretty high with the 500C. I think that most of the savings are in the Teflon discs that take the place of the side bearings. SS bearing are no doubt heavy and
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Thanks for the input, guys. I guess what I'm looking for isn't out yet. I function OK with a SS700, it would just be nice to find everything I'm after. Too bad custom reels aren't accessible like rods are.
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Dave hit it. Hold the blank in the groin or slide it in the belt, parallel to the floor, grab the foregrip area with a straight arm, ensure that a foregrip appears where you're holding the blank. I prefer 1 3/8" diameter grips for this. Grab some different hammer handles and see which feels best, then get a diameter. I'd shy away from 7' unless you absolutely need it for distance. 5 1/2-6' i
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