I use them for quite a while to stir my finish epoxy. I get a nice pack of them at my dollar store.
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What I mean by 5 to 6 inches in my terms is if the rod had no load on it and was straight and then you pulled down on the on the line to hook your bucktail on the stripper guide the tip would have bent from straight to 5 or 6 inches. I did have one guy on the boat suggest that the rod had been hit and caused the break. The rod broke exactly 3 1/2 inches from the tip and the first guide from the
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Just had a brand new rod I delivered to a customer break this past Saturday on its first fishing voyage. Not a good thing for a builder who was also on the trip. A Rainshadow rx4 graphite sws70m. So heres what happened and I'm open to what you guys think may be the cause. I built this with the only modification to the the butt adding 3 inches. We were fluke fishing using 6oz spro jigs. He only
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My second thought of course after I did this is that the direct heat might pull out the properties of the cp that makes it work. I have always been a 12 hr. per coat. That said I thought of Billy V who is always a tester and prods us to do our own testing besides asking others so that is what prompted me to try this. I'll post my results when I get them. The more we test the better the it gets
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Well with all the hot temps in Jersey I thought I might try drying a deco wrap in the sun after applying a coat of TM cp. This was the first coat on Mediera threads.Temps were in low to mid 90's in full sun. I did a 1/4 turn every 10 minutes. I probably could have did 5 mins a turn. Holy cr.. colors returned to their originals. I brought it right in to the ac house. A couple of hours later I c
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I have had one blank from Mudhole shipped to me and upon further review found the butt section cracked length wise about 6". No problem they shipped me new one free. Now I have had different things shipped to me over the years and I now do this. Check the shipping container for damage upon delivery with the driver right there. If theres damage to the shipping container open it and check you
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Batson for a budget and the kids. Try something in the SWS series. Maybe 70M or MH
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I've used the Bubble buster spray. A few times following directions and then my way. Per directions I seemed to get fish eyes but no bubbles. No knock on BB. that method just does not work for me. I now spray the epoxy one small spray while it rests on aluminum foil. Bubbles are going to happen. I don't know whats in Bubble Buster but I'm sure its all about relieving surface tension without con
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I just reread the post and thought. Maybe they mean the Flex coat won't bond to the wrap well and start to come off. I have used Flex Coat on lots of wraps that had CP on them and never had a problem with the Flex Coat. I don't know what they mean. Try getting an old or newer guide wrap to come off for a redo.
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I have used CP on alot of guide threads thru the years and never had one come loose. I currently have a rod I built using Maderia thread on the guides with 2 coats of CP. I have brutalized this rod for the last 3 years on blackfish and stripers and all is just fine. The thread holds the guides on.
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I just had a St. Croix off shore blank painted by a very good painter at a local body shop. I prepped the rod taking off the factory paint. He did his thing. Came back just fine and if I may so a beautiful white metalic pearl. No weight difference I noticed. Just put color on it and clear coat. I think you might be better off using Dupli color but Krylon Fusion should work. Your choice all th
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Roger pick the guides you or your customer can afford or wants and the rod will be good to go. Thats all you can do. They are all pretty damn good.
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I use the Forhan on all my last 3 or 4 giudes. I certainly use them on my salt water rods for the last 5 or 6. Makes me feel better and the customer too. I hate my work to fail and so far two fresh water rod guides have come out on me so the Forhan is my in to stop that. No problems since and that was the only problems I have had. Use what you like and feel comfortable with.
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I'm with Billy and Tom on this. Inconsistent thread pressure/packing and with a dark rod blank itshows very easily.
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Thanks Roger. I actually used that stuff when I was a kid going to elementary school.
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If your talking about the micro guide moving up the blank as you try to get the wrap over the guide foot tip why not just wrap some masking tape in front of the guide so it will not slide foward. Still use the dental band. Then adjust the guide for alignment which you should be able to do.
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When you heat a old tip top for removal the main thing you are doing is breaking the glue bond. Thats it. Not cooking or melting it. I have had very good success heating tips over a stove top. This is not like cooking a hotdog or a marshmellow. I work the rod tip quickly with a few spins as I go. Then take it out of the heat for a moment. Repeat as necessary and check the tip to see if its remov
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I have noticed that on the rods I have built and used Flex Coat.They seem to yellow when I use black thread. I would take a guess because black absorbs sun more readily that this is a possible cause. Have also used Regular FC and still use FC Lite. I've used it on yellows reds oranges and these rods work and not much to see as far as yellowing. I started using Pro Kote last year and noticed righ
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Thank you Ken
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I use the old reel method. Get everything lined up then put in the reel feet. cutting one off an old reel is an excellent idea. I place the rod on my stands with the reel feet down of course and let dry. I like to put a wrap in the exposed section so sometimes that acts as a bushing.
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Great responses and I'm aware of all the preps and I have a tool to hold my guides when needed while I prep but the question was has anyone seen damage or break of a rod blank due to a guide foot. Ive taken quite a few, commercial and custom apart and have seen some feet with almost razor sharp tips or no prep at all and have yet to see a break caused by a guide getting into the blank.
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I know we prep the guide feet prior to putting guides on a blank and I'm in the middle of a build right now. I was prepping a guide when I thought. I have never had a guide or blank failure from not prepping and I do repairs and I have never had a rod come in with any damage due to a guide foot. I do mine for the purpose of just checking to see if a burr is there and to ease the transition of thr
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My first Am Tac belt broke after a month. I'm on the second one but you can see that one getting slack in it. A vacuum cleaner belt will do just fine. I think the belt size is 4.5 inches.
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Your rod? Try it. I'm going to be doing the same thing very soon to one of my own. I had a rod damaged by a man falling just before docking and he landed in a group of rods. I noticed the chip when cleaning the rod. I have done it before and had no problems and I will do it again. Just my personal experience.
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I think Billy recommends 2 coats. Let the first one dry then apply a second and let that dry to tac. He will chip in if I'm wrong.
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I have built on the rclb70m that GEt Bit suggests. The first thing I thought of reading the post. Real nice blank. Put a gimbal on if they want it.
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Oh man I'm making a tuna rod and did 3 types of color schemes before deciding with one. No finish but I have one favorite blank I have had since 1983 and just for color I have changed it 4x.
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Knock yourself out with split grips. Nothing more than you cutting what ever type material you want to size for the grip or grips. I have done them in EVA and cork.
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I had one breakage so far and it came in a triangle cardboard box. For the money and convenience use a pvc tube with newspaper and duct tape ends. Never had a problem with that setup and I'm sticking with it.
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and what are we talking about in uses? Blanks and reel seats?
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