Like the others have said, there are pro's and cons to both. I prefer to turn it on the blank. The end result for me is better and I don't have to ream thru the hole handle. Just be careful, protect the blank with masking tape and work slowly and you won't have any issues.
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Apply the finish lengthwise while not under power. Turn the rod 180 degrees by hand every couple minutes or so . Keep an eye on the finish. If it looks like it is going to start to sag, rotate it. Put it on the dryer after 30 - 45 minutes. And make sure the bubbles released.
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IT's your build and its called custom rod building for a reason. Take his suggestion for what is, a suggestion. Tape some guides on and test it. The blank will tell you what it likes.
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Post the time and date. I'm in Saginaw and would like to come if I can squeeze it into my schedule. Bob
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Remove it ASAP!
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Try a LITTLE heat from a micro torch or cig lighter.
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What is your price for the 4 oz. kit?
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Thanks guys. I'm not sure how or when the wraps would have gotten contaminated. They were inside a drying box unless they were being coated. I'll try it agian with a new brush. This was the initial use from that bottle. By the way, there wasn't a problem with color retention at all. All the finish just glob up in the middle of each wrap. When I removed the glob, the finish fish eyed and
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I used Chromo Seal for the first time on some test wraps. I applied four coats and let the last coat dry for two days. When I applied the Flex Coat, the CP repelled the finish. Anybody else experience this? Any clues?
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Thanks Tom, all taken care of.
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Tom - I'm assuming it is too late to subscribe to the magazine and still get this issue - Vol. 12 #4. If so, how can i get it?
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I am not a current subscriber to the magazine either but I am interested in the article as well. If I subscribe now will I get that issue?
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Roger, From what you desrcibe, I am doing pretty much the same as you. I rexamined me process over the weekend and I think I have found what the problem may be. I built a dryer box over the winter and put some halogen bulbs in there to heat since the rod building room is a little chilly in the winter. With the bulbs, the box heats up to about 80-85 degrees. I didn't notice until this weeke
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the help. One last thing. The only wraps that I'm having bubble issues with are the inscriptionarea and the larger guides on fly rods, the stripper and the one right above it. Is it possible that I'm still applying too much epoxy. Again, I'm turning by hand for awhile before puting it on the dryer. I'm waiting a couple minutes between hand turns and I'm not getting any sagging.
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The lite version. And there is no label. I used a paint pen. This is the second coat over the inscription. The frist coat did not have any bubbles at all and was applied in the same manner. I also have another question: is it possible to apply the epoxy too sparingly, prohibiting it from leveling? And thanks for the replys.
Forum: rodboard

It's the second coat that I'm having the problems on. The first coat I'm only applying enough epoxy to saturate the threads and fill tunnels. No bubble issues there at all. The problems this time are over the inscription. Last night I turned the rod by hand for about an hour and then put it in the drying box and started turning it. This morning there were four bubbles the had popped leaving
Forum: rodboard

First of all I want to say welcome to everyone here. There is alot of great information available on this board and it has helped me great deal since I've gotten back into rod building the last couple months. Now onto my problem. I read all about the new Threadmaster finishes and decided to give them a try, both the regular and the lite. I was familiar working with Flex Coat so I mixed an
Forum: rodboard