Hello all I have some bottles of Gudebrod Color Preserver (item #811) that have been stored in my basement unopened for around 5 years. I also have a couple bottles of Perma Gloss that have been stored unopened in my freezer for the same time. Are these items still OK to use? A test swatch with the color preserver looks good. I haven't opened the Perma Gloss. I was happily addicted to rod
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Thanks for all the replies! What I was looking for was a graphite 6 wt 2 piece Powell, similar to what they were selling 6 to 8 years ago (longer?). My bamboo rods came from Portola CA circa 1984 through 88. Evidently there was a split in the Powell clan and the guy that built my rods relocated at least for awhile to Portola. There may be a rod building TV drama here... BTW, I really liked t
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Hi All I'm looking for info on the Powell Rod Manufacturer that operated in Chico, CA in the 70's and 80's. I attended Chico State in the mid 70's. The Powell rod shop was my first exposure to custom rods (bamboo and graphite). Their Graphite rods were the first of their kind my friends and I fished. I still own and fish two of their bamboo rods. Anyway, a fishing buddy from those days has
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17 year old has his own rod building business. Great story it's in todays Montana Standard.
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I saw a trim band tutorial mentioned here some time back. If it is still available I would like to get a copy. My trim bands need help. Thanks
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Checkout this site, lots of reviews and brand specific forums.
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I read last months posts about Guderbrod 811with some dismay, it is my go to product for butt wraps. What's the status of the 811 that is currently shipping? How does it compare to the 811 that sold a year ago? Is there another product that is similar to the 811 that one might have purchased last year? I still have a couple of bottles of the old stuff on the shelf. But if I'm going to switc
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Thanks for the tips! In looking back at my methods, the bumps seem to appear on the side I wick the excess finish from. I must be taking to much off or hitting the rod. Thanks again.
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Occasionally when I epoxy a closed wrap (flex coat hi build, hand turn every 5 minutes for 1/2 hr then rotate for 2 -3 hrs) a rough area forms on one side of the wrap. Definitely not bubbles and only on one side. It usually forms over cross centers or where chevrons cross. This doesn't happen every time but is frustrating when it does. By the time I sand and recoat the finish gets a little th
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I'll second the recommendation for the Dan Craft FT. I have a 4pc 9ft 7wt Fast Taper. It was interesting to read your post, one of the places I had in mind when I built my FT was San Luis reservoir & the forebay. Besides our local trout, I've used my FT for Salmon & Steelhead, Red Fish and, yes San Luis stripers. It hasn't disappointed me once.
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Anyone stocking them? Thanks
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I had no problem marking a piece of scrap with a Pilot extra fine silver marker.
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Anyone out there ever use an Incra marking rule? They are thin rulers with small holes for marking precision layouts. A friend who is a machinist showed me one. Extremely accurate. I ordered a metric version this morning. Pictures of the metric rule are here
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Here's wishing everyone a happy and prosperous new year. Especially those of you that waded through and responded to my posts. This board is a wonderful resource and Tom is to commended on a job well done. Cheers!
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The rod is great, you nailed the colors of Montana State University.
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Looking for a book / vid / tutorial on butt wraps. Mostly I am interested in layout info. I have Clemens Thread Art book and do well with the patterns it contains. I really don't have that much trouble following the recipes once I get the initial layout(s) down. It just takes me a while (sometimes a LONG while) to figure them out. My computer is a Mac so getting Visual Wrap is not an option.
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I scavenge every broken rod I can. If I come on a blank with a color I don't have, I use a wooden dowel and Acryllic artists paints. You can mix them to match any color. And they dry in about an hour. They'll work fine on PVC, but it's difficult to get PVC in small sizes. $0.44 to $1.00 a bottle at a discount store. Works for me.
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A question for the board. How do you go about holding a guide secure while fiing the foot? I use a method I first read about here, a plastic screw and Dremel. Since this is how I'm spending part of my aftrnoon, I thought I would see how others go about this task. Thanks
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Hi All When I epoxy over an open wrap the finish settles into small hills and valleys over the wrap and blank respectively. It's not noticeable to the eye, but if you run your hand over the finished wrap it's very obvious. I've tried using 2 coats (Flex Coat, 6 rpm motor) with only partial success. Anyone out there have this problem? Any suggestions on dealing with it? Thanks for your help.
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I recently built a FT 907 for steelhead and light salmon fishing. I have been casting an 8 wt line with it from shore and drifter with no problems. Stan was kind enough to let me use his FT 905 for a week earlier this fall. Both rods are a joy to cast. I really don't see how you could go wrong with the FT. It's great to see a rod function as advertised.
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I came up with a nice wrap while playing with some of my wifes polyester emroidery thread and some Guderbrod gold metalic rod building thread. Has anyone here ever used this combination? Are there potential finish problems I should be aware of with these threads? I really like the effect and would like to use it on a rod somewhere down the road. I went ahead and coated the wrap in color prese
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My local source for Madeira thread has stopped stocking it. Alternatives are Mettler and Coats and Clark (Wal Mart). Does anyone out there have exoerience or advice on using either thread? I mostly do short butt wraps on fly rods. Thanks
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Dan Craft Sig V. A very nice crisp blank. WIll out perform a lot of 6 weights.
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In recent months there have been a couple of methods for applying feather inlays discussed here. 1, Using CP on thread and feather, then applying epoxy. And 2, applying a thin coat of epoxy over the thread, then CP or permagloss over the epoxy, next the feather(s), then more epoxy. I've tried both with good results. Is there a preferred method? Does one have benefits the other lacks?
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I will be purchasing a Dan Craft blank this week. I would love to hear from those of you who use Dan Craft products. Leaning hard towards the FT, but still considering the Sig V. Comments?
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Can the Dream Weaver Loom be used on a blank (fly, if that matters) that has it's handle installed? I know the guides can't be on the blank. I tried to get ahold of one of the distributors, but this being Friday evening I couldn't get an answer. Thanks
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Hi All I've been playing around with some simple weaves and am ready to buy a loom. Problem is I have little or no idea of what's out there. I've seen rigs from $20.00 to $380.00. Anyone have some advice or preferences? I'm going to be mostly doing letters, fish and emblems on fly rods. I do want to progress to more complex projects. Thanks
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Anyone have warranty experience with broken Orvis blanks? Thanks
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Hi All I have found myself in possesion of 3 brands of color preserver Flex Coat, U40 and Gudebrod. I use them primarily for feather inlays. I have 2 questions: 1: What's makes them different? And 2: Does one lend itself to feather inlays better than the others? And a bonus question 3: Maybe a whole new topic... Anyone know how to preserve the detail in bright feathers without
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Thanks all for your input, I just did a little experimenting with the keeper in question. Reversing it won't work, it just tries to close when it's tensioned. The Forhan wrap will work, I just need to spend some time with it. Also I WILL be on the lookout for epoxy trying to wick itself into the hinge. If anyone has some advice on keeping that from happening I'ld love to hear it. Thanks aga
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