Aaron: I've been using a CLA4 in salt since May of this year, about 25 trips in all. Not so much as a stain from the saltwater. The drag works very well for stripers and blues. After every trip, I just dip the whole reel, line and all, in a bucket of fresh water, take the spool off and swish the two parts around to remove sand, etc. I plan on using this reel for salmon/steelhead this fall as well
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Thanks guys! I use Flex Coat on rods, so maybe now I can buy in bulk. The sealer issue is a good one Mark. It makes sense that the wood would have to be stable in order to not stress the epoxy during contraction/expansion. Thanks again. Aaron
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All: I usually sit back and just absorb the amazing amount of knowledge that simply flows from the Q&A on this board. It really is a tremendous resource. Now I have a question that is sort of off-topic. I am learning to turn wooden plugs for saltwater fishing here in New England. Would Permagloss be a useful finish for these plugs? I figured it sets up easily and 6-10 coats should be durab
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Aaron: I have to agree with Bill - if you can ship them ahead, do so. I travel 8-10 times a year out west on business and always take at least one rod. I've found that airports, gate attendants and airline people in general aren't all on a single page as to what is "allowed" or tolerated with rods. The folks in Detroit were particularly random in the rules they invoked about rods. I
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Matt: Silicone is deadly to your finish. I ran out of FC syringes last fall. At my wife's suggestion, I bought a couple of glass syringes from for measuring epoxies. I clean them out with alcohol and they are pretty cool. It pays to have wife who's a chemist. My next epoxy purchase will be Threadmaster. People speak highly of it. Good luck. Aaron
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Steve: I have two of Dan's 7-piece FDC rods and no one believes me that they cast so well - until they try it themselves. Great information on some great blanks. Thanks for all the work. Aaron Harp
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Raymond: I'm working on my first surf rod and I'm exploring my options for cork tape transitions. I like the shrink tubing idea and can it take epoxy? I'd like to see if I can make is nice and shiny for cosmetic reasons as well as possibly making it more durable. Any ideas are welcome. Aaron Harp
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Using the search function I came close to, but not right onto, an answer for this little problem. I have a 5wt fly rod that I began using last summer. I was just cleaning rods and I noticed 4 or 5 serpentine scratches on one of the male ferrules. It appears that sand or something get into the female end and when I put the rod together again the scratches resulted. I looked at them under a magnify
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Tim: I suggest you look at the Dan Craft's Five Rivers 5-piece blanks or even consider his 7-piece blanks. I have a 4/5 and a 5/6 7-piece rods and like them very much. They fit into a briefcase and cast really, really well. I usually carry both when traveling. Best of luck. Aaron
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I built a couple of Dan's 7-piece rods a couple of years ago and asked him via email about the marks. Here is his reply: "The marks are the spine. If you want more lift coming off the water with your cast, place the guides on the marks. If you would prefer more power on the forward cast, place the guides opposite the marks." On the 4/5 wt I put the guides on the marks; on the 5/
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Pat: Tom K. mentioned this - you can find them on factory Scott rods in their S3, S3S and G series. Blanks are pricey ($300+) and available for the G series only, and only up to 6 wt. I have couple of S3's and one G and I find them to be very smooth in their action, better than other ferrule desings in the Scott line. I'm going to check out the Steffen Bro's. as well, which is a perfect c
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Tom: I often wondered that myself until this past summer. We were visiting New York City and walked through a Saturday street fair. A guy was selling "dental instruments" - not good ones and not something I'd want in MY mouth. Nonetheless, he had bins of stainless spatulas in all kinds of widths. I bought 6 different ones. They work great. That doesn't really help you, though. Befor
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Rick: If all else fails, and money is no object, there is always Sage. They have a variety of 9'6" 4 piece 6wts. However, I cringe at paying that much for a blank that I can match for less than half of the price. I agree with Tony: Nudge, nudge, nudge Dan Craft. Aaron Harp
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Greg: You can see that people have preferences regarding nickel silver v. aluminum. Mine are equally personal. I love the look of NS with turned wood inserts on rods that are about 6wt or less. They lend a look of lightness and grace, fine engineering,etc., and feel almost weightless to me. I use black anodized aluminum on rods 7wt and up, and always for saltwater rods. I don't like uncol
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Jon: I had the pleasure of using a borrowed 10' 8wt FLi this December for steelhead here in Michigan. I kind of fell in love with its lightness in the hand, backbone and cool color. I'd buy a blank or two when (or if) they come out. Best of luck. Aaron Harp
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