Putting a guide at the fwerrule will give the least possible stress on the ferrule.
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Snake Brand snake guides are the best. If you use Pearsal's Gossamer silk with varnish, the total weight will be less than any single foot with nylon and epoxy.
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Single foot guides are not snake guides. IMO they look bad on a fly rod.
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Drill out your wood handle and fill it with cork. It will be lighter and the rod will never know the difference.
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Try Dave Leclair ar: leclair123@aol.com. He can make you any style ferrule you want. Best to send him the old one if you can.
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The most important point is to end up with a guide as close to the female ferrules as possible.
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Taking a set out of a bamboo tip is not complicated, but very delicate work, especially if you are tryimg to do it over a varnish. I could not tell you exactly how to proceed, but recommend you get some scrap tip sections (maybe from a flea market) and prctice on these using a heat gun at low setting. If it's too hot for yhour hands, it's too hot for the bamboo. As to ferrule glue, tip top hot
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Dan Craft's Sig V or new fast tip blanks are great, but may be slightly over your $100 target.
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It's the only epoxy I use to ferrule bamboo rods. JB Weld is stringer, but don't ever try to remove a ferrule. The temperature at which JB Weld breaks down is much higher than where the cane does.
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The ferrules are probably oxidized. You can rub them lightly with rubbing compound followed by polishing compound. Try cleaning both the male slide and female with alcohal first.
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A G level line is going to be very light. Many older rods are marked something like HDH or E. An E level will be about equivalent to a 6 wt level.
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Typically about 28 to 30 inches.
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With modern glues and good scarfing technique, the tip can be scarfed so it bis not noticeable without magnification. The scarfed tip will be just as strong as the original. I do it all the time.
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Try nelastic thread, available at most sewing supply shops.
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Ferrules usually come in 1/64 in increments.
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It's not necessarily the fault of the tip sizer or caliper. When the manufacturer cut the nbarrel of the tip top, they use some kind of a pipe cutter. This process rolls the edge of the barrel l opening. Use the pointed end of a pencil compass or some such pointed tool to ease the rolled edge of the barrell.
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I use Struble reel seats, which I prefer, and they don't required a groove.
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The best glue I have found for gluing cork rings is Weldwood Plastic Resin. Works great, doesn't leave any hard rings, and cleans up with water.
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Garrison would never use them after a friend of his got impaled by a tandem hook salmon fly. Theyt are useless, dangerous, and distract from the clean lines of the rod.
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Garrison would never use them after a friend of his got impaled by a tandem hook salmon fly. Theyt are useless, dangerous, and distract from the clean lines of the rod.
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I use white Pearsal's Gossamer Silk to wrap acarfs on bamboo. With MOW red can varnish it is nearly invisible.
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If you want to really reduce weight, use silk thead (Pearsal's Naples or Gossamer) and varnish instead of epoxy. The only real difference you will notice with smaller guides is reduction in ability to shoot line.
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Varathane Crystal Clear Diamond, blue can, is the best color preserver I have found. It will give you "off-the-spool" thread color.
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Varathane Diamond Crystal Clear (blue can) works better than any color preserver I have found.
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If A gives you the shakes, you ought to try wrapping with Pearsal's Gossamer silk. It's smaller than 6/0. It's all I use on bamboo rods.
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Varathane Crystal Clear Diamond, blue can, will give "off-the-spool" color preservation. Two or three coats thinned slightly (10%) with water.
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Weldwood Plastic Resin glue. It leaves no hard rings, cleans up with water, and gives plenty of working time. Any hardware that sells glue will have it.
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IMO single foot guides don't look right on a fly rod. I doubt you save any weight as the single foots requires a longer wrap. The thread and epoxy is where the weight is. I use short foot snakes with silk thread and varnish instead od nylon and epoxy.
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Don't use 5 minute epoxy. It is only good for tip tops. For butt caps and ferrules I use golf club makers shafting epoxy.
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Ose a dull knife to pop off as much as you can. Finish clean up with alcohal or acetone.
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