My NiTi REC's "sing." It's not too annoying for me and definately won't spook fish. I love how light they are on lower rated rods.
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THanks for all the insights. I went ahead and mixed a batch of West and tried 3 things. I added blue casting resin pigment to one, metallic bronze pigment to another, and a mix of both to the last. I just let piles of each cure on a white paper and a black paper to see the difference. We'll see how it looks in the morning! and Jim...I agree that the West feels greasy. I think I'll sand and He
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I've gotten a few of the carbon grips uner my belt now and wondered what to do with a few that turned out less than perfect.(to say the least) They have poorly aligned fibers or some core shows through. Since they are perfectly functional, I thought about coloring them somehow to mask their imperfections. I came across some photos recently by Jim Hicks and Mike Pederson. It looks like they've had
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Thanks for the ideas. I think I'll paint the core before I lay up next time. That should do it. Gene
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Dr. David Daniels Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Line 599 > Char 1 > Object Expected I get the same, and have for a while now. Doesn't seem to affect anything, though.
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So, I love the composite article. Tom's follow up method has worked best for me on the skins. I do, however, always seem to have a few small places where gaps in the weave show the underlying foam. This has not been a problem on spin seats or a reverse half wells, only on the front end of a modified wells grip where it tapers down to the blank. Anything I can do about this that y'all have figured
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I use 5 min epoxy and lightly rough up the contact areas. Gene
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I have the White River Ultra light that Mark mentioned. VERY light, but no drag. I use it on my SCIV 762-4 The Pflueger 1834 that WAlt mentioned is my favorite! It's light and has an adjustable drag. Balances well with my Batson 662-4. Good luck finding them. The Okuma SLV isn't very light compared to the others, so I use it for a longer 3 wt. DC Sig III 802-5
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Get an idea of your guides and seat and reel and line to be used to know how the balance will turn out. put things together (or use equivalent weights) to know if you should do up or down-lock. Also, lengthen or shorten the grip as needed. Personally i've used up lock on all but the really long rods where I need to counter balance the added blank weight from the length.
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I'm a Dan fan. He's the man!
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THanks Bill. Gene
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Sig V's and FT's are as different as can be. FTL's are a lot closer to the SigV's characteristics. In my opinion (based on CCS measurements and data from others) the FT's are a slow action version of a blank marked down several line weights. To explain: The 1004-4 FT I have ERN's at almost a 7 weight if I remember correctly. THe AA indicates that it is a slow action rod. The Sig V and FTL's CCS #
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Glad this topic came up. I have tried to experiment from Rodmaker instructions from the article on ultralight rods. So far only with a hookeeper. I'm exticed to try to go threadless on a very light fly rod. Just curious if anyone has tried threadless with an REC recoil SF lightwire guide? I haven't done one to sacrifice and mangle a guide yet and just though I'd ask if someone else has already s
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TILGT: These are the Titaniujm framed Cermet tip tops. (Being new to the building thing I'm still learning all the model #'s, etc) I checked Anglers Resource and Mudhole. Does anyone know if there is any other ring size in these other that 7? THanks, Gene
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Thanks, guys. I'll get a generic spacing and go from there. Gene
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Does anyone have the spacing on a CTS Affinity Plus 9' 5wt 4pc? THanks, Gene BTW: A big thanks to Robert at Fishstiscks for his super service in getting this out to me, this blank is a BEAUTY! THe Golden Plum color looks great.
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I have built this exact rod. It's very stiff. As noted above the ERN is high. I measured the ERN at 6.76 and AA at 59. These #'s are on the rod, not the blank. So it rates like a slow 6-7wt. I fish it with 5wt lines. Just remember that a 4wt in Dan's FT series is more like a 5 or 6wt. Of the several DC blanks I've built up I confess that this one sees the least use because it is just too stiff fo
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4.5 9.25 14.5 20 26.25 33.5 42 51.25 61.5 73.5 Those are from Dan's list. It should be a good starting point. Gene
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Here's my CC data. I find the uniformity and ease appealing and hope the CC site keeps expanding with submissions. The data, especially with multiple submissions for a rod or blank (to better average out human error and individual blank differences), is really helpful for me when choosing blanks. (disclaimer: Seemed easy, but this was my first attempt at the CCS.) Gatti G4 9' 5wt 3pc = 35g ER
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I, too, am looking to build a LIGHT 9' 5wt...or four or five of them. It's nice to have spare rods on hand for friends out near the San Juan! Here are some blank weights of what I thought were some of the lightest 9' 5wts around. Mind you these are one blank only, I didn't weigh several and average them... Gatti FRHPII 9' 5wt 3pc = 33g Gatti G4 9' 5wt 3pc = 35g Dan Craft FTL 9' 5wt 6pc =
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Chase, THanks for the reply! I'll look for them soon. Gene
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Anybody have the scoop on the new AW12 seat from Amtak? Looks neat on their site. It doesn't say recommended weights it is to be used with, or an average weight. Any info is appreciated. Thanks ahead of time! Gene
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take it out in the sun tomorrow. It is a very dark blue..mine are anyhow
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done
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I just built this and LOVE it! Here are the spacings I started with. Dan indicated that these were specifically for the 4 pc Sig V 9' 4 and 5 wt's. SV9044 and SV9054: 4.75, 9.75, 15.125, 21, 27.5, 34.5, 43.825, 54.5, 66.25, 79.75 I ended up moving a couple guides less than half an inch and one just over an half an inch.
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