Andrew, I have been using you method as well and it has been working fine for me....
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I've done 6 of the "Bumpers" to date. For the most part on 7' Mag Bass - Med Hvy type blanks - For what it is worth the butt and 180 seem to end up between 10 and 12 inches apart......
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You might check with Brownell's. They are probably the largest gunsmith supply house in the country. They have a website They handle many formulations of metal coloring agents, and I would bet customer service could give you the skinny on it. I'm with Putter though, my guess would be that normal blueing agents won't penetrate stainless... Good Luck, they do have parkerizing and teflon c
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I drilled a hole in the pvc then rod bonded a plastic sheetrock / wall anchor big enough to insert the motor shaft in the hole. That gave me a longer "arbor" to fit over the shaft. Probably not needed but I then drilled a hole through the shaft and wall anchor and put a cotter pin in. That way it is easy to remove the chuck if you ever need to replace the motor.....
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If you are going to build one, look seriously at adding some type of reverse tension device. It will make your wrapping much easier..... an old hack saw blade, tip up flag or a piece of wire on a spring will all work..... real easy if the thread comes over the top, takes an extra loop or eye of some sort if the thread come from the bottom on front......
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Putter has been doing this on some rods. He had some pictures on the photo board. I think he is at the show (lucky dog), but I am sure he will give you his opinion....
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HI Dick, There is a huge amount of information on the board about it - Search for spiral wrap, roberts wrap, acid wrap, revolver rod - might also want to look for some posts about this by Brad Tharp or Rich Forhan or Ralph O'Quinn. There are several different methods fo setting this up. I think there is a new article coming up in Rod Maker also. Most Bass rods set up this way use double foot
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Hi All, Got a buddy going on a cruise, and they will be doing some bone fish flats type fishing. He want's to get set up with the correct equipment to start with. I am going to let him use one of my flyrods to humiliate himself in the back yard with so he can work on some casting technique before he makes the plunge... He is an experienced angler, just not a fly angler. I told him to expect to b
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What Bill said... Just yesterday I made some fine adjustments to some ECSM by sacrificing a cheap blank, cut into 14" sections. I then used 3M self adhesive outdoor ladder grip tape. Split the tape so it is 1/2" wide and spiral it around the blank piece before you remove the backing. It will make it easier to position if you do this. then just remove the backing as you spiral it arou
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Aaron, What I have been doing, and I have seen it mentioned on the board by others, is to leave a sample of the epoxy you used for your wraps on a piece of foil, in a mixing cup, etc... leave it in the same environment in which the rod is stored while waiting for it to cure. Then you can use your fingernail to press into the sample. When you can't dent it anymore, your wraps are "cured"
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Gerry is correct James, I have found no need for a second coat, and when I say light coat, I mean a very light coat. All you are trying to do is just "fix" the inscription until you get the epoxy on top of it. It is more of a dusting enough to cover rather than a built up coat. I have not been thinning the flexcoat. I don't think that we are trying to match a satin fixative to a ma
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James, As an FYI, I have been using a satin gloss on matte blanks, not sure if this makes a difference or not.... Joe
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James, I have not noticed any problems at this point. After the epoxy is applied I can't see any difference between the blank (unsprayed area) and the inscription. I am basing my opinion on about a dozen inscriptions, I am sure there are others that have thousands under the belt.......
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James, Someone else jump in if I am off track but I have just been masking off the area not to be sprayed, and giving it a quick, very light shot of krylon clear acrylic spray. Make sure you let things dry well. As a precaution use a very steady hand using lengthwise strokes over the inscription, trying not to actually touch the insciption area with your epoxy applicator. Just let it "float
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I just looked at the terms, you can order less than 25.00 but they tack on an extra 5 bucks. Of course if you live in the country that Putter and I do (it was -27 when I got up this morning) hey, heres my 5 bucks, I'll stay home and have a beer where it is warm LOL.... In all honesty, I have not ordered from them, I had a book mark from a previous post on the board.... I was looking at these w
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Just my two cents, but perhaps more inportant than the tool is learning to sharpen it and keeping it sharp. It is a joy to use a lathe with a sharp tool, with some experience you will be able to tell if and when your tools need sharpening from the feel and sound as well as the shavings from the stock. A sharp tool minimizes the need to sand also. As well as buying tools, you can make specializ
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Try This.....
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Done deal Mike.... Joe P.S. I posted a couple of the oil on water "marble" that I had mentioned over the weekend.....
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I am new to this also but I will pass on a tip that sure made my wrapping easier. I glued a short extension on the back edge of the Flex-Coat hand wrapper and then attached an old ice tip up (spring loaded) flag. I wrapped a guide on this and rod-bonded another guide closer to the front. Now I run the thread through the tensioner and to the guide positioned at the front, then back up through the
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Coors - Now thats my kinda compadre - La Bala De La Plata - The Silver Bullet.......
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As a token of my appreciation to Tom and the great crew that frequent this board, I have an idea I want to share, regarding a twist on the marbleizing technique. I have, or at least tried to post an example under the member gallery, (Joe Barnett). I would think this may have some application (especially to you Putter) LOL. Back in the late 40’s and early 50’s, my great uncle Hank Wokasch and
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Had an error, double post sorry...
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Hi Dale, Fancy meeting you here.... probably see you at the Jan Fed Meeting. I just ordered some 811 also, have not tried it yet. From what I have gathered here, thinning translates to diluted, IE; after the thinner is evaporated, you actually have applied less CP and it may not be enough. Let me know how your wraps fare after the finish is cured.. Joe Barnett
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We did some e-mail back and forth over the weekend so I know he was still alive then ;-)
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