I have found that if I do very thin coats, I can get a finish with no bubbles. But the problem is that they have to be very thin enough that it takes many coats to get an ideal finish buildup without any bubbles. This way is time consuming and requires more epoxy usage and waste. I know some people prefer to do one coat and have no issues. Again, the bubbles are not easy to notice unless you
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I have noticed the difference im quality between different brands. Using the hot melt glue stick from Fuji seems to be the better quality than the cheaper ones I have. It takes more heat to melt this one, and it cures (cools) harder and stronger. This is what I would use. I think craft hot glue sticks could also work, but it would be better to use the higher quality brands capable of higher me
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Now that I think about it, I don't recall doing any of that. That may be the issue.
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I used some blue painters tape on a rod that was coated in permagloss. When peeling off the tape, some of the permagloss coating came off with it. Now the rod have some bald patches where there used to be a coat. I am certain the permagloss has dried completely, I coated it many weeks ago. Does anyone have the same issues? I thought permagloss was supposed to be a strong, durable clear coat. It d
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I used the paintbrush handle to stir the epoxy. It is round. I may try letting the mix sit for a moment before application. But I'm thinking the epoxy could start to set up sooner, before I finish.
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I used some Flex Coat high build and found some micro bubbles in the cured finish. They are not noticeable until you put a flashlight on it. Is this normal? When mixing, there were also bubbles. Using heat takes them away, but the micro bubbles in the mix remained even when using heat. I prewarmed the bottles and used a heater in the room. I mixed the 2 parts on the bottom of an aluminum can
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I made a dryer system and the motor heats up during use. I want to know if this is normal and if I should worry about it. I don't want the motor to burn out or fail in the middle of rotation. It is a synchronous motor that is geared for low RPMs. Shaped like a hockey puck. Does anyone else have a dryer system that uses a similar motor and how much does it heats up. My solution so far is t
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I would try to make the choke guide the same size as the running guides. I currently find that that won't be possible for me on a rod I'm working on. The best layout for me is to use size 5.5 KB belly guides (meaning the choke is size 5.5). Then use size 5 KTs for the rest of the running guides The reason is because the size 5 KBs and size 5.5 KTs are out of stock. So I can't order the KB and KT
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The ring size for the choke and runners should be the same size. As for the frame, while it says the frame style should also be the same, I think the better term is "similar". The choke guide (after the KL-H reduction train) is the KB belly guide. After the belly guides you have the KT guides to the tip. The KBs and KTs to the tip are the running guides. So the running guides consist of
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When doing static load on conventionally wrapped casting rods, really what do I look for? Should I be looking for a spacing where the line doesn't touch the blank when under large load? I tried some static loads and I was able to get it to the point where the line almost touches the blank. It may be touching the blank at some places, but lightly. It is a 7 foot medium-heavy casting rod, and I
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Maybe "anodizing" is what you are looking for? I believe it is a different process for titanium and aluminum.
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It looks like I won't be able to set up a KR concept layout as I will have to order a completely different set of guides with the recommended ring sizes for a KR build. I have set up my 7 foot rod for a 9 guide layout. I attempted to place the guides according to the 2 line static test and I was able to get it to the point the line is almost touching the blank. Maybe even touching the blank i
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I only know of the kr concept for spinning rods. How do I do the kr concept for casting rods?
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How do I find and install the mobile app? The app store? And what devices is it compatible or not compatible with?
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In my opinion, I think the New Guide Concept is the more ideal layout for your 11ft surf rod. The KR concept is more ideal for rods using 14lb mono and under or 30lb braid and under. Essentially, rods smaller and lighter than yours. You can definitely use the KW guides for the NGC layout.
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Paint or permagloss can make the tip bigger. I had a rod that I applied permagloss to and the tip tip that fit snugly before wouldn't fit anymore. The 2 or 3 coat of permagloss has added some bulk to the rod. Or use more glue like others said. Cover up with decorative tip thread wrap and epoxy.
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With this kind of error, it is fortunately easy to identify as you can just measure the ring sizes. Now you mention it, I have always wondered about mistakes and guide mixups from the vendor when ordering. What if the ring material is not what was ordered? I think this can be much more difficult to identify, as one can't just measure the rings. Maybe you can look for color differences, but I w
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You can use a very fine wire. Like the wire ties from the grocery store produce section. Remove the paper coating and dip into the epoxy finish, then insert them into the tunnels to ensure that they are filled with epoxy. Also like others have said, start application from the bottom of guide foots. I would also try to press down on the brush to squeeze the epoxy through the threads and into th
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I am trying to do a static load test of the guide placements on a 7 foot medium heavy casting rod. I attached a reel and threaded the line, then loading the rod by pulling on the line. My guides are taped on and they move to the side under load. It was getting difficult to get accurate and reliable outcomes when the guides are constantly shifting under load. Having to readjust the guides repeated
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I would like my rods to be versatile in line sizes and types. I don't expect to use braid every time, so I would build my rods to be able to handle 10lb mono (6'6" rod rated 1/8 - 1/2oz 8-12lb line). So I go with 20H, 10H, 6M or 5.5M. If it can handle 10lb mono, ow will also handle braid. I haven't built this rod yet, but I hope I made the right choice in the reduction guide sizes.
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Fuji Torzite guides have much thinner ring material than any other ring types. This allows you to go smaller guides without affecting the inside diameter size. Torzite size 4.5 may have the same ID as Sic size 5.
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How did you do the writing on it? What ink and tool did you use?
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I looked it up and found something called "Citristrip" that can be found at Walmart. Is this something that will work at removing old paint and finish? And how do you use the citrus paint stripper? I already know how to remove old guides; I use the same method already described here. Hopefully this method of using citrus paint stripper will be just as easy and effective?
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What is the best way to go when stripping old graphite rod to the bare blank? Removing the paint and all.
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I think I will apply the Permagloss outdoors. Don't want any of the fumes in the house. What is the ideal temperature for application? I am uncertain about the end results if I apply it in 40-50?F weather.
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If using Testers paint, can you put permagloss over them without any problems? I know with some paints like Krylon Fusion Permagloss can react with and "burn".
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What is the Forhan locking wrap?
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Can Fuji KT and KB running guides be used on a casting rod? They are not strictly for spinning rods?
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The Amazon link is not working. Are they still sold on Amazon and could I find them elsewhere?
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I found the video I was talking about. He was building a freshwater casting rod with a Shimano SLX.
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