David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here is what I use > > sid=05a904559&_ss=r If you look at the link you > will see that it comes in 4 sizes. There is a > chart near the bottom of the page that tells you > the size range each size covers. > > You can cut it to any width you like. It works > awesome. >
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I have tried the dental bands, and will still use the 1/8 on larger rod sections. For smaller rod sections I have been making bands out of 1/16"ID rubber tubing. It fits tightly and holds the guide feet very well.
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Thanks for the answers, everyone, I genuinely appreciate it. I'm glad I wasn't missing something. I will start doing it that way as well, as I think it will be easier for me.
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Jeff. > > Thats the way I do it, but I usually don't do two > piece rods only if specially ordered. > > > Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines. Thanks Bob. This is actually a 4 piece fly rod. When you say that is the way you do it, do you mean you wrap towards the ferrule end, or a
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Greg D Harbin Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use 1/8" vinyl pinstripe tape from the > automotive store. Stretches and holds pretty > well. That's a great idea. I hadn't thought of pinstripe tape. I cut some colored vinyl electrical tape into thinner strips and tried that, but I bet pinstripe tape would be about ideal.
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Leslie Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeff, a couple questions: > > Is the 1/16 tubing anything special? How wide a > band do you cut? > > The I.D. of a stick pen is great for thin sections > of blank; and as you mentioned, too skinny for > sliding down a thicker rod blank to roll off a > micro tube. > That's wha
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In most of the video's I've watched, ferrules are wrapped towards the open end of the ferrule. Even when a guide foot is close to a ferrule they typically start at the guide side of the foot and wrap towards the ferrule end. Why is that, and is it important? It seems like it would be easier to start near the ferrule end and get four or five wraps down, and then carefully and neatly push the w
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jeff: I have long used eight or ten turns of > fine-diameter elastic thread to locate and hold > guides for permanent thread wraps. I can stretch > and wind elastic thread over a guide foot and > around any diameter of rod tube, then I tie half a > square knot in the thread, pull the ends tigh
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Leslie Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Great solution, Jeff! > > Is this like a wacky rig-ring tool of sorts? Would > an aluminum tube (like you can find at hardware > stores) work also? That taper at the roll-off end > seems like a key element. > > I am still using rubber bands and it works decent, > but the bands ten
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I've learned so much reading this board, and through email from helpful members like Phil. I thought I'd share something I came up with today that may work for others. I've tried a few different ways to hold the guide feet for wrapping. I've tried tape, the guide glue, elastic thread, and dental bands. I like the dental bands the best, but the smallest ones I could get don't hold things very
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Cool news Herb. Will be curious to hear opinions and comparisons once folks have fished them a bit. Currently the T&T Contact II is widely considered the gold standard for ESN. I own 2 of them and believe they are much better rods than either of the Sages. The gap between what most folks consider to be the next tier down, like the offerings from Echo, don't come close to the Sage ESN or T&
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That's wild Mike B. We are in eastern WA. Where are you located?
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Aaron Petersen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I was an industrial electrician and now engineer. > I have picked up some tendencies. My wall plates > for receptacles and switches all have the flathead > screws facing the same way. Attention to detail is > a blessing and a curse. I'm a developer and builder. Our electricians all know that
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Aaron Petersen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I always start and end mine opposite the anglers > eye on the bottom of the rod. Once you get better > it won't matter as much because it will be harder > to detect where they start and end. You will start > and finish much cleaner once you figure out the > best way for you to do it. > &
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Thanks Aaron. That makes complete sense. I have plenty of various magnification available, I will make sure I am happy with a wrap prior to coating it. There is something I am curious about. I have watched a lot of various video's of folks wrapping guides. When it comes to starting their wraps, and choosing where to end them by pulling the thread back under the five or so wraps, they seem to
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Thank you Mark and Phil! I genuinely appreciate all advice, and I have no doubt I will take you up on your generous offer Phil. In my mind, the one thing I can see struggling with a bit is not being able to actually cast some of the blanks that seem popular. With something like a Sage, or T&T, the blanks are available, and I have a chance to cast a finished rod to gain a sense of how it
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I would be curious what NFC would consider an acceptable deviation. If it's 1/2" in a 1' section, thats about a 2.4 degree angle.
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Thanks for the welcome everyone. i have already learned a lot from reading a large number of posts on this site. I hope one day I can contribute something worthwhile. I build a few custom knives, and have a large belt grinder, heat treating oven, etc. I have some experience using epoxy, fitting things, etc., but wrapping guides and such will be an entirely new thing for me. I tie flies, so I'm a
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Hello everyone. New member here that has been enjoying reading a lot of threads on this site. I've been fly fishing for a little over 50 years, but am completely new to rod building. I just ordered some tools and supplies from Mudhole, and have a blank coming from Proof Fly Fishing. My day job is a real estate developer/builder, and I'm a serious firearms enthusiast, and have a type 7 manuf
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