I had one blank that about 1-1/2" at the very tip was bent pretty good. it was either a FW701-1 or a FW702-1, I don't remember off the top of my head. I took a couple of pictures of it and sent them to NFC. They contacted me shortly after and sent me a new blank. Customer service took care of me and I have been very happy with them. I would suggest you contact them and see what they have to
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<p>This is a jig I mad to take CCS measurements</p>
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I have 2 of them I have not built yet, so I can not give you much Information on them. The CCS numbers I did are APFG10-1 IP# is 174 AA 76. The APFG45-1 IP# is 635 and AA 75. The AA numbers could be off a bit but those are what I came up with. I will be building the APFG10-1 in a couple of weeks when I get back home. They seem very nice for the price.
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Senad, I have had the same problem as you with my hand going numb after casting, not as soon as you but it has been a problem every time I am casting alot. I Just started fishing a couple of new rods I made with the American Tackle Aero reel seats. I started using it a couple of weeks ago and my hand has not gone numb once, I didn't even think about it until a few days later that the numbness wa
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I am about to build a surf rod for the first time. I have built a number of spinning rods using the KR concept and absolutely love it. I was thinking of using it on this rod or would it be better to use the KW guides? The rod is a 10 foot 2 to 6 oz and the reel is a Saragosa 5000 using either 20 or 30 pound braid. Thanks, John
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This is how mine is worked out. 5, 9-1/2, 14-3/16, 19-1/8, 24-7/8, 30-3/4, 38-13/16, 47-3/4, 56-13/16 an 66-5/16. The stripper is 30inches from the but. you can use this as a starting point but make sure you do a static test. John
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I have one of the CTS Air rods in a 1/8 to 3/8 oz just for throwing paddle tails in 7' 6". It is a medium fast to fast. It is the most sensitive rod I have, it is an amazing blank. They are extremely light but very strong. If you are interested in a CTS blank contact Herb and he will help you out and get you what you need.
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I did my test casting on my PB761MHF with 20 pound braid that was on the reel and the 20H guide cast better than the 25H on average by about 12 feet. Thanks for all of the help.
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I made a jig out of some scrapes I had laying around. Basically it is a piece of plywood with dowel rod and a T-track with a dowel drilled in the center to accept a handle with a 1/4-20 bolt in it so you can adjust or different rod blank diameters. I carved out a small section on each dowel so the rod blank wont roll around.
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The knowledge here is truly amazing! I think I will go with the 25H set up and see how it works. I have a 20H set up at home now too so I will put them both on and test cast it to see which one works out the best. Thank you for the information on the braided lines, I will definitely look into the Hitena braid. Thanks for the links too. I agree there should be some sort of a standard for the break
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Thank you for all of the information and that link, I had not seen it before. The line I was actually thinking about using is the power pro maxcuatro line. The 30# is almost the same size as the regular power pro 20#. If 20# will work fine with the KL25H it looks like that would be the best bet.
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I am building another inshore rod, it is 7" 6" Medium Heavy Fast action. I am using a 5000 reel with either 20 or 30 pound braid, I have not decided yet on which one. On the guide software it lists size 20H for 15 to 20 pound braid but it does not list 30# at all. My question is would the 20H, 10H, 5.5M work better or would the 25H, 12H, 5.5M work better? Thank you, John
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I have the Fuji chuck and I really like it a lot, basically it is the same thing.
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Thank you all for the help I appreciate it. I will go with the 16H on this rod. If everything works out as good as I hope I will make another one on a medium or medium heavy rod and then try to 20H.
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I am a pretty new builder and have done a few fly rods and one spinning rod. I am going to be building a 7' 6" Medium / medium light Fast action inshore spinning rod mostly for wade fishing. I would like to use the KR concept layout for this rod. I will be using a 3000 reel with 10 pound braid. Using the KR guide placement software it calls for 16H, 8H, 5.5M. From there I was thinking of usi
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On my Alps Power wrapper the base next to the track is 1-1/4" off of the table and the end of the thread carriage is 1-1/8" off of the table. Yes is is on a slight angle being lower away from the track.
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According to Titebond TitebondIII does soften at 150 degrees. However when heated above 150 (160-180 degrees) then allowed to cool it activates a secondary cross-linking in the glue making it SUPER strong! After it has been heated to temps between 160-180 then allowed to cool it becomes so strong and impervious to heat it will not come apart when soaked in boiling water (they actually test for t
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Wow, Thank you very much. Looking forward to the build!
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Mark, they are all correct. I am a woodworker and I just started building rods, mostly fly rods. The sandpaper is the way to go. I was thinking the same as you the first time I made a cork grip. I have a number of lathe tools and I figured that would be way better to use but in the end all it does is tear the cork. I had the tools freshly sharpened and everything but it was not pretty. I even tur
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