thanks for you input everyone. I suspected alot of jargon in terms of some of their wording, but also see why there are carbon fibers going in different patterns for strength or rigidity or sensitivity and the such. now, i will admit that i was a bit curious to some blanks made in china (as we all know that some of the top rod companies have their blanks outsourced in China due to low labor cos
Forum: rodboard

sounds a lot like micro-bubbles/pinholes (during mixing and even during application) that do not level out enough for epoxy to flow back. could also be contamination, but that usually forms craters/holidays. Some people say DNA (denatured alcohol). That would reduce the surface tension of the epoxy + can help thin the top layer of epoxy to let the air bubbles travel up faster and pop. This
Forum: rodboard

i also know that people that go out fishing will have the rod in the sun for long enough to hit that last cure state. was just wondering if i was doing an extra step that isn't necessary. thanks for input!
Forum: rodboard

Southern California saltwater fisherman here. trying to get an idea on different types of 1 piece carbon/graphite rods and rod blanks. i see on the market so many different things and was wondering if anybody had in depth knowledge about the pros and cons for each type of blank material, along with pictures that i could reference. Maybe all of these technologies are about the same thing in ter
Forum: rodboard

Hello all, As a novice rod builder (but have a career in the epoxy coatings industry), I was wondering if anybody does any post-cure for their epoxy finishes. Standard epoxies (modified Bis-A) typically reach about 80-90% cure with ambient temperatures. Driving the reaction to 100% (or very close to it) usually requires an additional high temperature cure for a few hours after the epoxy has
Forum: rodboard

i don't know if it is the right way, wrong way, or if i'm just being dumb, but i've tinkered with a few spiral wraps and this is what i found out for west coast style fishing; - Some people will think you put your 2-piece rod on backwards - If your first guide is dead center with the blank, the line will have a tendency to lay more on the side where the spiral wrap happens. i counter that by
Forum: rodboard

99% identical chemistry. they are all modified BIS-A type epoxy with amine hardeners. you can put flex coat on and let it dry, then put prokote on afterwards. if too much time is allowed between the coats, the mechanical intercoat adhesion will be reduced and light scuffing will be needed before the 2nd coat is applied.
Forum: rodboard

2K epoxy and permagloss will not accelerate curing with UV. if you wanted to speed up epoxy curing, you'll need heat, or to use a different curing agent (which gets difficult as you need to calculate EEW:AHEW). There is a UV cure industry, but there are a few setbacks involved. 1. it is VERY expensive. i've seen UV cure products for $200/gal + proper curing equipment (DecoRad) is ridicul
Forum: rodboard