I'm building a 4 pc 10 weight (TFO Pro) for Alaskan kings and I'm wondering if the standard snake guides are good enough for the heavy duty rod. I'm used to 5 weight and lighter builds. Should I use heavier thread? This will be a two hander and I'm putting an oversized reel seat on it so a mooching reel can be used. What reel seat should I get? I'm trying to do this one on the cheap. Than
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Guess I overlooked that somehow. Thanks.
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At first I was going to get the fast action Dan Craft 8 weight, but I've been told to go with an 11 weight instead and they don't make that blank this big. Any recomendations on a one for around $100? Thanks
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Thanks for all the good info, guys. I never had a problem with the actual Sage decal, but I'll keep the idea of waiting a few minutes in mind for next. I just ordered some of the micro mesh pads from Woodcraft.
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Serenity now...
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I found a good post about it. Thanks!
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How fine of a grit do you use? Does that really matter since you put another coat on it?
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I'm fininshing up my XP and I just can't get the epoxy over the lettering as smooth as I want it. It's just a little "uneven" in spots if it's in the right light. I could say it's smooth enough, but I'd like it like perfect. I read on here a while back about sanding epoxy, but I'm scared it will do more harm than good and I'm not sure I can get the Flex Coat Lite any better. I don't
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I just built a rod with single foot guides and I hated working with them. I want to try the recoil snake guides for this, but I need to know what sizes to get. The chart is for light wire.
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I'm guide shopping for my XP and I don't think I want to use the light wire snakes they call for on the Sage spacing chart. How do the light wire sizes translate to standard snakes? Should I use the light wire like they call for? Thanks.
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That's the pen I'm using...it just never really dried even after a full week. I like the pen a lot, so the top coat should take care of my issue.
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A friend swears by the quill pen. I just couldn't get it to do the same thing two times in a row. IMO it's unpredictable even after a lot of practice.
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Thanks Bill. I thought about doing the laquer thing, but I didn't get to experiment with it. I'll try it out tomorrow. Decals may be worth looking into.
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I'm just starting out and I'm trying to find the best way to sign the blank. I get good results with the ball point gel pens, but they NEVER dry. I've also played around with a metal "quill" pen. I can't get it to do what I want. Does anyone use the gel pens and put a clear coat on it before the epoxy? What's the preferred method for signing?
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