Used camera flash.
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Forum: rodboard

Rice variegated thread.
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Tried the flash with this picture.
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Still trying
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AMTAK IM6 UL So. Cal Surf Perch Rod
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Throwback baby-blue colors.
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San Diego Chargers color scheme.
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San Diego Chargers theme wrap.
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San Diego Chargers theme wrap. Throwback baby-blue colors.
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Blud dun and medium gray on a Forecast SH1081-2DB.
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Forecast SH1081-2DB.
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Good question. Thanks for asking it. I have been pondering the same thing. Hopefully some of the others will provide some insight.
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I think you have to keep looking it over for an hour or two if you want to catch every possible seepage. At first you will get more seepage as you refine how much epoxy you try to use but make sure you don't get too little to do the job. Generally I use a rag with some denatured alcohol to get at the hard to reach areas. I try to keep all solvents off of blanks these days, found that Windex seems
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Hey: I made one with the Grit 3M Scuff Pad Reamer Abrasive from mudhole. I don't use it in my lathe but I do use it as a power reamer in my hand drill. I followed the directions and used contact cement and have had no problems at all. If you can find some blank pieces then you can make an assortment to fit your needs pretty easily.
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I put a message on the local surf fishing website and one of the guys wants me to build him a rod! I'm feeling definitely ready although some areas I'm better than others. This will be my first split grip; that should not be a problem. I'm going to weave something for the customer too. Maybe a local So. Cal surf Corbina. He wants a 8'6" steelhead type rod that can go down to 4lb and up to 8
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Did I read where someone wrote that AMTAK IM10 blanks cannot take any solvent-based solution at all? I remember a thread some time ago about what to use when cleaning a blank. I think there was one blank that was found to be damaged when even a mild solvent-based solution was used to wipe it down. I just bought a couple charcoal-matte finish AMTAK blanks and the finish is not like I have seen bef
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Dave: There is a photo in my member gallery of a green Rainshadow with Rice thread.
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How do you insert a link to a photo?
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I mounted an L shaped piece of metal on the original PB tray. The metal piece had holes where I mounted 2 NTT's horizontally. If I replace the paper between magnets frequently then the tension feels just right. The paper seems to get dirty and slick rather quickly. I like to use 1 piece of plain 20lb copier paper.
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Twelve guides is OK by me, especially if they're titanium. I just built a similar rod and started with a 12 then a 10 then 5's all the way up. After I did the conventional static placement I flipped them all over except the butt guide. Then I placed a no. 5 in between the butt and first guides at about 90 degrees. It casts sweet and feels good in the hand.
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That's weird. Do your butt pieces always take a lot longer to dry?
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I got tru-oil all over the rubberized-cork butt of a cork handle. It looks like that was a mistake because everything else has dried but the butt is still sticky. I tried wiping it off with denatured alcohol to no avail. Am I going to have to cut off the butt and glue on a new one?
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Got it. Thanks.
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Is it me or is everyone having a problem?
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First time trying Thread Master. It is thicker than I am used to (FC Lite). On this thicker-type thread finish are most people putting 1 or 2 coats?
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I have most of what is available but would not mind at all buying enough binders to store what I have. Your projected pricing on binders sounds fine to me.
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I see Mudhole has some chrome and gold cork accent rings. Has anyone tried these? A Tru-oil type of finish, I assume, would keep chrome or gold from tarnishing.
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I have a Seeker Black Steel jig casting stick that I bought before I started making my own rods. I guess it sat in the corner for some time becasuse now the top fourth of the blank has a good size left-turn bend. Any tips on how to get this straigtened out?
Forum: rodboard