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Current Page: 1 of 1
Results 1 - 13 of 13
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No, it's you. The spine can't cause a cast to go > left or right. It would have to cause the tip to > move in a different direction than what you're > moving it in, which it can't do. > > ............... Tom, I guess I need some help understanding here... When the planes of the spine movement
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
Thanks, Roger and David. I love this place!
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
OK, I did a search and found this "just sight down the rod and align the reel and guides with the straightest portion of the blank. Many blanks will have a slight hook or bend somewhere in the blank which is perfectly acceptable. Just align the guides on the same axis as this hook or bend. By the way, due to any slight hook or bend, it is quite often that the spine of the blank will also l
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
Bill, what you write is exactly why I'm building my next casting rod with a spiral wrap.... but from what you are saying I should ignore the spine and build so the casting position is on the straightest axis? I'm not sure I understand how to determine that..... maybe I'm not looking closely enough at the blanks when they arrive. No matter how you hold it gravity is going to affect which axis is t
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
I have a basic question that I can't seem to get a good answer to. I presume it is a matter of opinion, so I'll ask for opinions. Supposedly the proper way to cast a casting rod is at a 90 degree angle to the typical guide placement so that the spool spindle will be straight up and down for less friction and a longer cast. But if you do that, shouldn't the spine be oriented 90 degrees from the g
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
Thanks, Michael. I've also got some Permagloss in my shopping cart!
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
Michael, if I understand your last point, I might suggest that the threads are what keep the guide on the blank, and the finish, with or without CP, is what keeps the threads in place. Apparently one does not need the epoxy finish to contact the blank except to anchor it in place at each end of the wrap. When you say to make sure to get the CP down the tunnels, I assume you mean the space adjace
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
Great ideas. Thanks. Keep 'em coming!
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
I've got some Gudebrod on its way to me - so I'll be seeing the difference soon.
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
Thanks everyone. As some of you said, my colorfast threads just don't really "pop" like I want them to, so I'm thinking of trying something new. Doc Ski mentioned on one of his videos that he uses color preserver even on his colorfast threads - and I'm not going to argue with him. I'm just not happy with how the colorfast threads look after the finish - kind of dull. Sid
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
I'm new to rod building, have built 6 or 7 rods, have not used any color preserver because my thread is colorfast..... nonetheless I'm thinking I could get a better result with color preserver. What are the differences between them, and which do you use and why? Thanks for responses. Sid
Forum: rodboard
8 years ago
Sid Lehr
I think the proper way to look at sensitivity is not weight/stiffness, but stiffness/weight - so sensitivity increases with increasing stiffness or decreasing weight, not the other way around.
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 1 of 1

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