I really like the Microwaves - they are easy to set up and I think they cast very nice. However I may have experienced a shortcoming with them this past fall. I have a rod I setup with test-casting using braid and a short fluoro leader (the knot was kept between the double stripper and second guide before all the casts - I believe it was 10-12lb braid and 15 or 20 lb fluoro). It works awesom
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Larry, I am sorry but I am thinking you will not be able to get a winding check down past the dec wrap. I could be wrong about that; but a thread wrap right up against the foregrip with an epoxy finish ramp might be enough to cover up the gap so that you don't need a winding check. Maybe others have different tricks. And also I was suggesting that the dec wrap tie-off function also as an unde
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I've noticed in a lot of decorative wrap work many of those guys don't use hook keepers at all. I don't know if it is because it prevents them from having a minimal tie-off like you want, or if they believe it detracts from the look of the wrap, or because they don't want hooks scuffing up their finish at the wrap. I have them in mine, but my tie offs were already long because I am still learni
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I've seen some splitting hairs on here about what to call this stuff. The paste and the rod finish are all "epoxies" in terms of chemistry. Araldite is a trademark name for different adhesives, some are epoxies but the manufacturer apparently has other types of adhesives that are not epoxies. The "epoxy" name comes from "epoxide" which is a reactive portion of t
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I was wondering the same thing very recently...I had a wrap completed, CP'ed, and then tied off. Then I spent about 2 weeks (off-and-on) doing overwraps for the tie-offs, figuring out and restarting the trim/thread changes I never did before. I probably inadvertently touched the CP'ed wrap many times, and wondered if that messes with the CP. Got that done and CP'ed the tie offs - but I left t
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I thought the razor angle was sketchy too, but people use scalpels the same way. If the thread came apart in two pieces that's the culprit, but it looked like it was still one piece. I believe the unraveling might be occurring because he is just burnishing too vigorously and for too long? You just want to smooth it out a few times. In any case I think the tension is way tighter than w
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When I started not too long ago I had the same thing happen. My solution was to put the pull-through loop in a lot earlier than what the videos say. I think I leave about 1/4 inch between the cut tag end and the end of the main wrap. For guide wraps, insert the pull loop on the opposite side of the blank as the guide foot - not on the side, not the foot itself. This is so the main wrap is cin
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I just did a microguide rod (American Tackle size 4's) and I used the guide tubing from Mudhole (4/64ths ID, catalog number = GT-0) - it worked perfectly, even on the skinny part of the rod at the tip. Just cut off narrow chunks with a razor blade, leaving enough room on the guide foot to wrap the guide down solid before cutting the tubing off. After getting that stuff, I found that wrapping
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I'm no pro, but the blanks are typically what gets matched to a specific technique. And from what I understand the particular reduction guide train is then matched to the reel you choose. Reduction guide height selection goes with the reel's measurements. If you want finesse then my guess is that you'd want the rest of the guide train with micros as the running guides, and I'm not sure if he
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Don't forget to sand/cut off about an 1/8" from an end of each arbor, if you plan on using Fuji's winding checks with the flange. Also be aware that graphite arbor reams out quickly.
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Thank you Mudhole! That is very helpful. I always thought the numbers shown in the catalogs were the company's own system, I also did not realize Pantone was a standardized system. Thank you for the quick response! Jason
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Hello, does anyone know if there are RGB, HEX, html, or CMYK data for Prowrap thread? I'm trying to match colors for my next project and having a standard measure of the available colors would be very helpful. Thanks! Jason
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I remember your post about number of guides. I had the same question a while back on here for a 7'6" baitcasting rod. You'll see Ford vs. Chevy type arguments on here, and the final answer always seems to come down to 1) your own personal preference and 2) just giving it a shot and see if you like it. My conclusion is even if its not what a pro builder would set up, the amount of
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FYI on the alcohols, from a chemist - isopropyl alcohol = rubbing alcohol, usually comes diluted with water, sometimes has fragrances or dyes added. ethanol = ethyl alcohol = grain alcohol = booze. Sometimes its classified as a rubbing alcohol, but usually that term means isopropyl alcohol. methanol = methyl alcohol = wood alcohol = what you get if you make moonshine improperly, its po
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I built an MHX SJ783 for a similar purpose as you describe. I wanted the shorter blank to make it easier to flip a shakeyhead out of my boat (somewhat high walls), and also walk-the-dog of mirro-lure top waters for the occasional trips to the coast. I use it primarily for the shakeyhead and it works very well for bass. I found that the length and the tip's action made it very comfortable to wa
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Steve, that is interesting about the weights and a very good point. I am still monkeying with the layout but it does appear I will be going back to what I arrived at the first time. It cast really nice that way, and it had a silky smooth feel to it, similar to the microwave set I built on a spinning rod. It even feels slick on the retrieve. I don't have a specific system laid out here, but I
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Thanks everyone. I actually agree with everyone here, even though there are opposite suggestions. I got to the 14 guides after trying to set up less first, and then adding an extra one at a time. I may go back and try to finnangle less guides but as Roger says the casting was pretty nice. I know a benefit of the micros is the light weight, and going up to 14 total may take away from that. B
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Hi all I am laying out microguides for the first time on a casting rod. An MHX CB-905 (7'6"). Its mod-fast and bends a lot near the tip as one should expect on a composite crankbait rod. My guides are a size 6 stripper and 4's the rest of the way to the tip. I bought extra 4's just in case and in my static testing I am finding I need them all (all 13 plus the stripper and tip)!! That see
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jason, note the post that states the major > advantage is that the guides don't twist under > load. I do have trouble with that even with > surgical tubing, especially near the tip where the > blank diameter is so small. I was wondering > whether that procedure gives a different location >
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Just a question out of curiosity - I understand tying a weight or fixed anchor point to the tip in some way to keep it bent while you have line from the reel tied to a separate weight. My question -what's wrong with just bending the rod by hand while you adjust the guides with the reel line? if using something like surgical tubing you can slide easily?
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Just a question out of curiosity - I understand tying a weight or fixed anchor point to the tip in some way to keep it bent while you have line from the reel tied to a separate weight. My question -what's wrong with just bending the rod by hand while you adjust the guides with the reel line? if using something like surgical tubing you can slide easily?
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Thanks everyone! Tenons: I am using a CRB aluminum trim ring between the rear grip and the trigger section of the seat. The trim ring has a tenon that fits into the seat. And as Jim Ising pointed out, the winding checks have a tenon that mates with the seat as well. Dry run: I always do dry runs! The problem here was the epoxy built up in the "wet" run, and partially filled t
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Hi all, This forum and the search tool has been a tremendous resource. When I decided to build with a Fuji SK2 split reel seat for the first time, I did my homework. I didn't post a question about it but the archives had very useful comments about the graphite arbors supplied by Fuji. This arbor in the rear trigger portion of the baitcasting seat will not leave enough room for a rear grip
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In researching normal crankbait blanks for myself I noticed that MHX has a line of extra heavy power blanks designed for the "XD" crankbaits. I assume that goes with the Strike King naming system for some of their crankbaits. I think those blanks would go with the 6XD and above, what you describe sounds like the huge 10XD. They are just big deep divers. I would also assume such a
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I don't know about fly rods but when I test cast my guide layouts before wrapping, most of the guides on the tip end rotate off to one side, sort of like what you describe with your line stripping. When its a spinning rod casting right handed, the guides move counterclockwise some so that they are pointing at about 4 or even 3 o'clock when the reel is pointing straight down. I am pretty sure I
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Thank you for looking all that up, Todd! I figured it was probably simple, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything important with the first couple of guides. There is virtually nothing out there on the COF, everything is about the NGC, for good reason I am sure. This doesn't have to be high performance but I don't want it to be dead either.
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I appreciate the advice, but I just don't want to buy more guides. This was intended to be a simple low cost build, that I was going to personalize (favorite color, air force decal, diamond wrap, etc). Also, he will just be chunking cut bait, in the Gulf for whatever bites, he isn't too picky about rod performance and sensitivity. The blank is rated for 1-3 oz, medium power, mod fast action.
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To keep things "easy" for a gift, I got a kit... Its a mudhole spinning kit for a 7' American tackle blank. It came with a set of double foot guides: 30-25-20-16-12-10-8 plus a tip top. The problem is I am not familiar with that guide progression - is it cone of flight? It doesn't match the 27X or NGC or any other system I have become familiar with: there is no obvious (to me)
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Hi all, I am about to do my first micro guide train (although I have done a microwave set). Does anyone bother with filing/grinding down the feet for these things? They are american tackle size 4's. They already seem so tiny and thin that I think the thread should have no problem with transitioning up from the blank. They are after all much thinner than normal guide feet even when those ha
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Thanks for the comments everyone. I actually like the idea of the underspin reel that a couple of you recommended. That is the heart of the matter - its not really the reel seat but the guide selection that will determine the long-term fate of the rod. If I he sticks with a Zebco 33 that means he will either continue to use a spincast or ultimately switch to baitcast when he gets older. I le
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