Hello again folks. I have read the article a few times, but have two questions.

1. When holding the blank, should I be aiming for a 45* angle from the ground?
2. When loading it, am I free hanging the weight with the line vertical or tied to something on the ground that is some distance away?

I just looked and found out where my second question came from. I read this article a while back and it has been in the back of my mind as I read the article on here. [anglersresource.net]

try this

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, thanks. That was the article I was referencing. I have read it several times and unless I'm missing something, my questions remain unanswered.

1. Put the rod parallel to the ground and high enough to allow you to bend it as necessary.
2. Free hang it off the tip top and add weight as you go to flexc the blank further and further.

Your link was to Fuji's article There is a difference
But
A 90 of the blank as to the Butt of the rod
Tie weight to the tip top when glued to the blank Then you run another line with a LITTLE weight to check the guides

Bill - willierods.com

Randy

Perhaps most importantly, a fellow really needs a willing assistant to do the load test well. Yeah, you can build a rod holder, tie off the load line, and do it solo, but is sure is easier with two people.

1. Nothing magic about an exact 45 degree angle to the ground. However you get a 90 degree bend in the rod is OK.
2. I don't get your second question. Perhaps what you are missing is you will use two (2) lines, the first of which is referred to in the article as the bend cord, which is tied to the tip top and the immovable object in front of the rod. The immovable object can be a tree, piece of furniture, door knob, anything that is not going to move when the rod is loaded. The second line is the line run through the guides so you can see if the second line truly parallels the bend of the rod. Said another way, the distance from the second line to the rod measured at the mid-points between adjacent guides ought to be the same after allowing for the varing height of the guides, if any. You can use a light weight tied to the second line or you can use just enough pressure by hand to keep the second line from sagging. I use orange fly line backing for the second line - makes it easier for old eyes to see the distances from the second line mid-points between adjacent guides to the rod.

Bill, sorry for the confusion, the difference in methods between the two articles is what triggered my question. Thanks for the clarification.

Donald, if you look at the article I linked from Fuji, you will understand. It looks like they tied the tip to a stationary object on the floor. I'm tracking on using two lines. One to load the blank at the tip and the other through the guides to assess the guide placement.

I wasn't sure on Tom's method if the weight was supposed to be hanging freely off the ground.

two lines
One holds the rod and does not move -
The other has just enough weight to keep the line straight so you line up the guides

Bill - willierods.com

Everybody has their way of doing things and no offense meant to any of them.

I much perfer a rod holder bolted to the wall. I do put it at an angle but maybe closer to 30 degrees....haven't measured. I use a bucket of water for the load. Lets me vary the load in fine amounts. I find when one "ties off" to a fixed point some distance from rod you don't get a true natural bend......but that is just my opinion.

I should also mention I do salt water rods and often look to static test to whatever the actual breaking strength of the line I will use on said rod. Just another reason why I don't trust someone holding the rod and want the ability to go in fine load increments.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks Russ, this will be for a saltwater rod rated for up to 60 lbs line. I will explore making a rod holder. I could probably bolt it to a leg on my work bench.

I understand the method, and have no problems with it, but have never taken the time to compare it with the simple one line method of running the line through the guides as it is when loaded during fishing. Has anyone compared the results of the two methods? Many of my early rods were done with the single line and I've never felt that there have been any problems with them.

The major advantage of the two line method over the single line method is that the guides do not twist and turn when you apply stress giving you a more accurate look at the guide train. Hope this helps.
Norm

Just a question out of curiosity - I understand tying a weight or fixed anchor point to the tip in some way to keep it bent while you have line from the reel tied to a separate weight. My question -what's wrong with just bending the rod by hand while you adjust the guides with the reel line? if using something like surgical tubing you can slide easily?

Just a question out of curiosity - I understand tying a weight or fixed anchor point to the tip in some way to keep it bent while you have line from the reel tied to a separate weight. My question -what's wrong with just bending the rod by hand while you adjust the guides with the reel line? if using something like surgical tubing you can slide easily?

Jason
That is what I do now Getting lazy I guess
Just be careful you don't break the tip on lighter rods I palm the tip trying to get a full hand over the tip and spread out the force So far so good
Also don't let your hand slip off and get smacked in the face -- Hurts
Maybe you should use two lines

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2016 10:27AM by bill boettcher.

Jason, note the post that states the major advantage is that the guides don't twist under load. I do have trouble with that even with surgical tubing, especially near the tip where the blank diameter is so small. I was wondering whether that procedure gives a different location for the guides.

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jason, note the post that states the major
> advantage is that the guides don't twist under
> load. I do have trouble with that even with
> surgical tubing, especially near the tip where the
> blank diameter is so small. I was wondering
> whether that procedure gives a different location
> for the guides.

Based on my understanding there are two potential lines in a static load:

1) A "short" line tied to the anchor/weight on one end, and the rod's tip at the other end. This line and its tension is used to bend the rod. This line does not encounter the guides at all, except for maybe the tiptop guide if you tie it to that.
2) The line tied to a light weight (enough to provide tension between each of the guides) and probably spooled on the reel set up on the blank

You bend the rod with the short line, and then you adjust the guides to get the most even transitions between the guides for the reel-line. You typically bend the rod at different angles and adjust the guides each time - as per the rodbuilding.org and Angler Resource articles about static testing.

So the only thing that can twist the guides is the line spooled on the reel and tied to the small weight. Not the anchor line. An earlier posting in this thread is someone is wondering if using the reel line can be used to also add the curvature - I would say no based on the guide twisting! My question was leave the reel-line alone as in the original procedure (light weight) but add the curvature to the rod by hand while adjusting the guide spacing with the other hand.

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[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

I would not do like the third one is doing You should have a line tied to the tip of the rod you get a truer bend of the blank that way Plus he is going to break that butt guide

Bill - willierods.com