Jay Dubay Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Try submerging in Boiling water, were gloves to > twist and remove, The heat should soften the > epoxy. Just curios what blank?? Rainshadow eternity2 7'2" M. I'm mailing them the pieces tomorrow.
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I know I can fairly easily take the guides off with a razor blade, but what about the reel seat? The real seat is the MVT Toray casting seat from Batson so I definitely want to get it off.
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I just did a a spiral wrapped "micro" guide build on the 7'2 M eternity. Only took seven guides plus the tip. Sizes went from 6 to 5 then 4.5 for the runners. Just tape them on there and do some static testing. That's the only way to know for sure.
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I just did a build with that reel seat. I used this one made by forecast. It looks really good.
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Thomas Kaufmann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > g-checks-trim-rings/alps-trc-trim-rings-aluminum/ > > Look here and then contact your favorite Batson > dealer. Yep. I found one on angler's workshop. It is made by Alps.
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The reel seat is a 16. I'm not looking for just any trim ring. I need one to fit between the bottom of the casting seat and the top of the rear handle without covering the tenon completely.
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It's for a casting seat. The alps mvt toray seat. I found one at angler's workshop. Thanks.
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Where can I get a cobalt blue Trim ring that will fit between the rear handle and the reel seat? Thanks.
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Awesome. Thanks, Tom.
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Is it the fact that it is stiffer and lighter than smaller modulous rods, or is it due to the composition of the higher modulus graphite fibers itself? Or both? Or am I missing something?
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The reel seat is the MVT Toray casting seat from Batson. I think the threaded area is nylon while the "body" is graphite.
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I want to trim the threaded area down on my next build so the threads won't show when the reel is on the rod. What is the best tool to use for this?
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Jim, Could I use the same setup you were talking about on my rod? Like a 16h stripper then an 8h then the runners?
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can certainly choose the AT if it's your guide > of choice. If this was a 6ft Ultra Light spinner > for crappie or hatchery trout my endorsement might > be a little more robust. A 6'8" ML blank generates > pretty good power and is capable of catching much > larger fish. We use the 6'9"
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Thanks. It will be for finesse bass fishing. I pretty much just wanted to get the build as light as possible.
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I want to do a spinning rod build on a 6'8" ML blank. Can I use the single footed Fuji TATSG guides for the stripper and reduction guides then the runners with small L frame guides? Sizing will go like this 16 (TATSG) 10 (TATSG) 7 (TLSG) 5 (TLSG)x5 then tip top.
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Bought some 220 grit sandpaper and sanded it down some and reapplied finish. Looks a hundred times better. Thanks guys.
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I think too much heat may have been part of the issue. I hit it with a heat gun quite a bit to see where the finish would sqg then I would wick the excess off. I did this more than once with three coats. It got worse with each coat.
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This is my second build and my first time trying to epoxy over them stick on decals. It doesn't look too good lol. From a glance you can kind of tell it's wavy, but when you feel it you can really tell. Is there any way I can sand down the epoxy to make it level wand epoxy over it without having scuff marks?
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I have tried Fuji poly, ProWrap, and Fishhawk so far. Pro wrap has been the best for me by far. It just seems to wrap better and I like the color options. I definitely want to try Makoi and Gudebrod. Especially Gudebrod's rust color in nylon. I think after the epoxy darkens it up, and with some gold trim on a slate colored blank, it will look awesome.
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Sorry. I'm new. What's so good about this thread in comparison to other threads?
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What do these blanks look like? Do they have a carbon fiber look to them, or are do they have a polished graphite look? Do the ultra swimbait and the ultra swimbait classic differ in appearance?
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Roger Templon Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Andrew > Are you building a spinning rod or a casting rod? > Rog Spinning. I'm all good now though. Bought a kit from Mudhole with the same blank to save some money. It also comes with a guide spacing chart. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
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I'm about to do a build for my Grandpa on a S721-2-MHX. How many guides and what sizes will I need? Also, it's a two piece. Do I need a ferrule or anything like that? Thanks.
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I want to be able to adjust my guides without having to retape every time. Are there bands or maybe some kind of tubing I could use to hold the guides down and still be able to adjust and wrap the guides? If so, where do I get them?
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They are both high modulus blanks made from Toray's graphite. Why is one more than twice the price of the other?
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How do they do those neat little epoxy ramps like on the glx and nrx rods? Do they just shave down a winding check and wrap up onto it then epoxy over it?
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As heavy as 80 lb braid with a 25 lb mono or copoly leader.
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I am going to do a build on a North Fork Composites IM-SWB808-1. The reel I'll be putting on it is a Calcutta 400B. What's the smallest size guides I can put on it if I want to use leaders with heavy line? I know the Calcutta will sit a little higher compared to low pro reels. I plan on using torzite guides, so can I go a size smaller? Also, if I want to do a spiral wrap, will I most likely have
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The replaced guides with the new finish will > probably look better Why not just clear all of > them The rod will look a l;ot better I'm afraid to go that route. I feel I could do more damage than good. How would you go about it though? Take a razor blade to the guide foot then use a heat gun to melt
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