Dear Herb, Yes, I have contacted Pacific Bay and asked them if it will be strong enough or not. Now I'm waiting for their answer. The dealer isn't sure, but he acts nice, buys a backup from Pacbay, to have it on hand if anything bad would happen to this. The only thing I can do now, finishing it, put it to an extensive casting test, and try to catch some big fish. :)
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Thank You for the article, it was very useful. but believe me, mine is way more uneven. It doesn't mean that it must be out of the tolerance limit, that's why i have enquired about it at the seller too. I'm much more relaxed and settled about is, due to Your answers. :)
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Thank You for the usefull advice. I have checked the blank, and really, if Iturn the top section by 135°, the allignment is very much better, definitely good enough to not to hurt my eyes and catch some fish. I'm courious about what the seller and manufacturer will tell about the wall thickness difference, but maybe I have overreacted it too.
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Hi Mates, what is the best solution, when my rod blank has a misallignement mistake? After finishing the whole building process, I have recognised, that there's a misallignment between the top two sections (fly rod, 4 pcs). The female part of the ferrule is not coaxial with the blank axis, so the top section stands sideways. It looks as if it was cracked. The deviation is roughly 3 mm (cca.
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Okay, thank You for your answers! Tamás Tóth
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Hi Mates, Sorry for the stupid question, but I can't find the discription, if the PacBay Rodsmith finish is rather low- or high-build? I'm going to buy finish for a fly rod, and in the store where I purchase the blank from sells 3 kinds of high build finishes, and this PacBay. So is it low- or high build? Thank You for the answers! Regards, Tamás Tóth
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Thanks for the note, Bill. What kind of paint do You recommend? Is acrillic hobby paint good for this use? The one thing I know is that the finish solves the permanent marker, so that won't be good.
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Okay guys, thank You for your answers. Then i'll pick the black ones.
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Hi Mates, I'm going to build a 9 wt fly rod, and I like the look of the black guides. My question is, how fast these black guides would wear? Is this black colour painted, or a kind of galvanized finishing? How fast will the black clolur disappear on the points, where the fly line contacts? Do they release the fly line any harder (so is their friction bigger, or not) compared to to chrome fi
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Thanks for the valuable thoughts for You all.
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Thank You for your words! I forgot to write, I have read the CCS data previously. I was more interrested in the casting performance and the behaviour during playing a fish. I would say, I'm more interrested in your personal impressions. We would use it on lakes where mostly medium distance (50-60 ft) accurate casts are required, often in windy weather. The lake is full of weed, logs, bushes etc
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Hi Mates, A friend of mine and me plane to build 9wt fly rods for the next pike season. We are both interrested in MHX blanks (Traditional line, NOT the Native). I have a Quickline 8wt as my main pike fishing rod, and I use it with great satisfaction, but I'm open to MHX. My question is, how do the two blanks compare? Does one of them perform better then the other at the higher line weights? Or
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Thank You for the info and the encouraging words. :)
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Hi Mates! I'm totally new to spey fishing, so my question is going to be a little bit difficoult. :) So I've found this Olde English 12' 4/5wt spey blanks, and i've become interrested, because maybe this is the only spey blank on the market I can afford. Has any of You built a rod on this blank? What are the impressions? Are they fun to cast and fish? Aren't they too heavy related to fancier
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Hi! I would like to ask if I choose different guide sizes than the blank manufacturer's recommandation, do I need to modify the spacing. I have a few guides at home, and I would be happy to use them at my rodbuilding project, but these guides are one or two number bigger then the recommanded. Does it modify seriously the stress on the blank, and should I stick to the recommanded sizes? Tha
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Crumbling might happen because the tail-spin damages the integrity of the plug, but it can happen to natural cork plugs too. I have visited a wine cork factory last week to buy a few champagne plugs. In fact all champagne plugs are made of the cheapest matterial, which is a composite made of 2-4 mm sized cork pieces. (Quality champagne cork contain a natural end sheet, but the main part is the s
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Thank You for your help! Roger, You're right, but there might be defference between glue used to produce champagne cork plug and glue used for making burl cork rod handles. I don't know if there's relevant difference, my question refered to this. It would be sad to mess it up, and to replace the grip one year later.
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Hi! I've seen some pictures of fly rod grips made of wine/champagne cork. I love the look of them, so I've collected some plugs. :) I tried to sand them, and I had better results with composite cork than natural cork plugs. Is there someone here, who uses a fly rod assembled with wine cork grip? Is the grip wearing faster then factory made grips? Does it need more or different maintenance t
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Okay Guys, thank You for your advice!
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Hi Mates! I'm on choosing the blank for my first rodbuilding. It's going to be a 9' 6wt fly rod, for streamer fishing. I have only a few blanks I can buy for reasonable price, but unfortunately in our country I have a very limited possibility to cast test them. I have measured the CCF of my favourite fly rod, and it has a CCF of 81-85, depending on the line used. I would like to ask is someo
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