Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

Forum: rodboard

<p>Mayfly thread weave</p>
Forum: rodboard

<p>Grip</p>
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Awesome, thanks guys. I'm going to give it a shot.
Forum: rodboard

I was thinking about cutting a few "trenches" one thread height deep into my wood grips to inlay a 3 or 5 turn thread wrap. I was thinking I'd probably just use polyurethane to finish the wood, and hopefully encapsulate the thread wraps with it as well. Has anyone tried anything like this? Will the poly eventually wear off exposing bare thread? Should I just use Flex Coat on t
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Got it. Thanks for the input guys. I'll bite the bullet and get a wood lathe then. Thank you.
Forum: rodboard

I use a power wrapper (Renzetti I believe?) as a dedicated lathe. It works great for turning cork, but I was wondering if anyone has turned hard wood with a setup like this? Is the extra time it takes to shape the wood not worth it? I'm looking into purchasing a proper wood lathe, but if I can make this power wrapper work that would be ideal since funds and space are pretty limited for me r
Forum: rodboard

Thanks guys!
Forum: rodboard

Thank you Roger. I use Gossamer Silk thread in white since every other white/natural silk I've tried from other manufacturers has a milky or a slight tint to it. The Gossamer comes out nice every time for me.
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I just finished this one up last Saturday, and I fished it on Sunday. It's pretty awesome! -Clear thread wraps with light orange trim -Single foot Recoil guides and tip top -Struble stripping guide with agate ring -Lemke reel seat from Ron at Southwest Custom Rods -The grip is a full wells with 1/8" gaps between rings. I'm really digging the grip. I did one like t
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Got it, thank you guys. Anglers Workshop said they could probably order some up for me, but I think I will just make some.
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I have a few of the Sully rod dryers, and have misplaced a some of the tapered dowels (I'm not quite sure on the correct name of these) that come with the dryer. Does anyone know where I could purchase some more of these dowel things, or any ideas on a good alternative that I could use? Thank you!
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Thank you William! I had no idea that burled cork chipped so easily! Now I'm nervous, I've been putting burled cork on the ends for a while now... Hopefully I don't get too many back... Thanks for the heads up!
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I can't draw a straight line to save my life, and the woodburner is even harder for me. I use graphite transfer paper to get the outline on the grip, and then do the burn. It's much easier for me!
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Thanks guys! Jared, the mayfly on the grip was done with a wood burning pen. I did it fairly light so it was a bit more subtle.
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Got it Tom, thank you. I'll try again.
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I had to show this one off... I just finished this one up last week. Here's a link to the imgur.com gallery: And a link to my Rodbuilding.org gallery as well: Nickle silver REC reel seat with buckeye burl insert. Recoil snake guides, stripper guide, and tip top. Custom designed and turned cork grip with checkerboard inlays, and a mayfly burn. There is also a custom mayfly weave
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I've been meaning to subscribe for a while now. This post just reminded me that I should probably get on it! Looking forward to checking it out!
Forum: rodboard

The line you choose is going to be a much bigger deal than the rod. Get something with a short head meant for turning over indicator rigs, and weighted flies. These lines also mend really nicely. I own Rio's Xtreme Indicator line, and the Indicator 2 line. Both are very nice. I sell the entire Sage line, and they don't make an indicator specific rod. They do make a tight line nymph rod th
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I turn all of my grips directly on the blank now. The reaming out of a 7 inch grip takes me too much time, and I've messed up grips not reaming them evenly. I once also broke a full grip forcing it into place. For me, it is much easier to ream out individual 1/2 inch rings, and then glue them together and to the blank. I put a mandrel inside of the butt section, and put my chuck on the ma
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I'm looking for an 11ft or longer 2 weight blank. Besides Anglers Roost, does anyone know of a source for one? I'm planning on building myself a micro switch rod for fishing brookies in the back country lakes near me.
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That would get pretty difficult to keep track of don't you think? I try to pull all threads towards the center of the weave as a general rule, under or over doesn't seem to make any difference at all.
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uline has quite a few different thick cardboard tubes in a few diameters and lengths. I have had very good luck with them. Much lighter than PVC.
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These were all done on the Pearlabel 270. I'm sure this printer will have no trouble printing your logo. If you look close on some of my decals, you'll see I've been using a mayfly between my logo and the name.
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This is how I strip guides. It works very well for me. Use a heat gun to soften up the epoxy/finish. Use a fingernail or a plastic scraper (I use the sharp edge of an old plastic burnishing tool) to remove about 2/3rds of the epoxy all the way around the blank. Now use your burnishing tool to loosen up some thread wraps near one end. Find a tag end and unwrap the thread. The remaining ep
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I've built 5 or 6 rods on the Quickline blanks this year. From the 9 foot 5 weight to the 11 foot 8 weight. In my opinion, they are the best bang for the buck. Very similar to the Sage One as far as action, speed, and weight in hand. I haven't noticed any balance issues with them at all. Even the switch rods were pretty easy to balance out perfectly with a downlocking reelseat.
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I use and re-use can bottoms as well. Works good for me. Just be sure to use acetone to get the printed numbers off the bottom of the can before you pur your finish in!
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I've never seen a video, but it's pretty easy to do right. I put shrink wrap on all of my floor model rods that will be displayed and played with by customers in a shop. Make sure you leave a little lip of plastic so when someone buys it you can easily make a cut in the lip, and then rip the rest of the plastic off. Don't use too much heat or you will leave burn marks on the cork!
Forum: rodboard