I get almost everything from Utmost now that Anglers Workshop moved to the midwest. They are pretty much the only supplier on the west coast now. I've been getting random other components (mostly REC since Utmost only carries PacBay and Batson) and cork rings from Karen at Bingham Enterprises. Utmost has the best margins that I've seen anywhere though. They are also only a few miles away fr
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I use the winding check calculator found here: It has been super accurate for me. I always order the closest size, plus one size bigger just in case. The closest sized one fits perfectly almost every time.
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I've eliminated the edges thanks to Jerry's suggestion in a previous post. I put a layer of transfer tape over the decal, applied heat to the edge, and then used a lot of pressure with the brayer to squeeze out any adhesive. Apply heat and repeat as needed. When you peel the transfer tape off, most of the adhesive that squeezed out will come off with it. Any left over adhesive can be blot
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OK, I can confirm that Jerry's transfer tape method works great! I stuck the decal on like normal. Then I put a layer of transfer tape over it. Applied heat to the edge with a heat gun for a few seconds. Then I used a brayer to flatten out the edge, and push out as much adhesive as I could out. I did both edges like this, and then peeled the transfer tape off. Then blotted any left over
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Wow, I've never thought of how easily the Recoils would shed ice. I do a lot of winter fishing, and iced up guides have always been an annoyance. Thanks for the tip!
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Ron Weber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > They can come with a trim ring or a plug. > Unhide your email Great! Thank you Ron. My email is now unhidden, fire away!
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I'm buiding a 9'6", 6 weight Winston B-IIIX for a customer, and he wants it flashy. Gold snake guides, rasta (red, gold, green) themed thread wraps, weaves, the whole nine yards. I've been having trouble finding a high quality gold reel seat (preferably with a wood insert) that has a matching trim ring for the fighting butt. I've been looking at the Lemke seats, and was thinking about
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Bill, I had this thought as well. It seems like this would work. I'm planning on trying several new techniques on the next decal I do. I will report back with what I find.
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I bought the 270 about 2 months ago, and I am very happy with it, the resolution is excellent. I have the silver on clear, and the gold on clear tape. Before I bought the printer, I was ordering up decals from a few different sources. I no longer have to wait for the decals to be made/shipped, and I can change stuff on the fly in case a customer changes his mind on what he wants on the rod (ha
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Great, thank you for the responses everyone. it sounds like I'll be getting some good use out of that Rod Bond. I have a huge bottle of Titebond III and I use it only for gluing cork to cork. It does work great, and the glue line is pretty much non-existant. How noticable is the glue line with Rod Bond?
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I've been using a 2 part, slow cure, waterproof epoxy from the hardware store with great success for years now to glue each individual cork ring together, as well as to the rod blank. It has always worked well for me, except that the epoxy is relatively expensive. I can only get about 3-4 cork grips done per $10 package of epoxy. I really prefer to glue each individual ring to the blank, and
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It looks like heat is the way to go then. I've gotten the transfer tape in, and I'll probably begin experimenting with heat and the tape this weekend. I see Larry sells a stand alone corner trimmer, I might have to pick one up.
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Bill, The edge is barely noticable, and I haven't had a single person look close enough to notice. I'm looking really closely, under high light, and with a magnifier, and I'm extremely picky. I wouldn't call these issues "problems" at all. That being said, a thinner tape would be awesome!
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Thanks Jerry. I'm interested in hearing more about this tape too. Because of the themal transfer tape that the 270 prints on, have you had problems with the heat making marks on the decal through the app tape? I'm assuming my heat gun on the lowest setting is still too much for this job. The glue that squeezes out is just the adhesive on the back of the decal correct? I can see how
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I have been really impressed with the PacBay Quickline blanks myself. They are the best bang for the buck in my opinion.
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Hey Pat, what are you using to bevel the edges?
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Thanks Pat, you saved me a few experiments. It must just be the thickness of the tape then. Have you tried laying a thin coat of finish down, apply the decal, and then putting a final coat of finish on top of that? If not, I'm going to try it on the next rod I do. It seems like that might help.
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I just bought a Pearlabel 270 and it works great. Although I have been having some issues with the finished product, and I was hoping I could pick up a few tips. I can still see the edge of the decal under the finish. I used a brayer to flaten down all the edges, and just after that applied the finish so the decal didn't have a chance to start peeling up. Which brings me to my second conc
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