I'm going to attempt my first tartan wrap. I have a huge collection of D nylon thread. Will the white D work for closing to get the bleed effect or should I use A? Thanks.
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I like using the lathe technique with Spectra.
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Try contacting them through their web page,
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There is an ongoing debate over CP or No CP. The way I see it is, that yes, theoretically a wrap without CP will be stronger than one with CP because it allows the finish to penetrate deeper into the threads, but a wrap with CP is plenty strong too. I've built many stand up style tuna rods using CP and have had no problems with guides pulling free while fighting a fish. I prefer to use CP beca
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I have a Custom PowerWrap and absolutely love it. I don't think I would ever go back to hand wrapping after using the PowerWrap. I have to admit that the prices are high, but the quality is top notch. Also, I got it for free from my boss at the tackle shop I use to wrap at.
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I've noticed the same exact thing. The only thing I can think of is that the black bottle is more viscous so more of the fluid is stuck on the walls of the bottle and haven't settled to the bottom.
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ZapAGap is a lot like superglue. once it dries, it gets brittle which is not good. Stick with hot melt. It's flexable which is a good thing in rod building. The other great thing about hot melt is that the tip can be readjusted later. Just add a little heat to re -adjust.
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Sounds like a good idea. Best puller that I have found so far is Spectra. Super slick and super strong so it pulls smoothly and lasts forever!
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I'm gonna try another batch, spread out and heated, because I really like this stuff except for the curing time. It is clearer, runs thinner, and has less bubbles than anything else I've tried.
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I gotta agree with Lou Reyna, the tape rings aren't "load bearing structures." They only contain the epoxy. When I first started wrapping rods, my boss only let me do repairs and rewraps, many of which required removing and mounting reel seats. From that experience, I found that it's not the tape, but what's in between. This is the way I set up seats based on what I learned fr
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I'm a lifelong FlexCoat user, but decided to order a batch of Aftcote for my next rod. Inspecting the bottles, I found that it smells a lot like FC, but no slight yellow tint in the bottle like FC. Mixed up a batch and the stuff runs very thin, much thinner than FC. Added a little heat to the mixing cup and it released bubble very well. It's been sitting in the mixing cup almost 11 hours now and
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I'd just wrap over it, glass it, re-sign it, then glass it again.
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I know what mine is, aligning the guides. No matter how many times I check and re-check, They never seem absolutely straight.
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I use a good set of dividers, they look like a compass from highschool geometry class, but have the pointy end at both ends. Just measure one side and make sure the other side matches.
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I was curious about these guides. Has anyone built a rod with them? What pound line are they rated for?
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The main reason decals tend to lift is because they are not adhereing well along the edges. Once any finish gets under any area, it will lift. To make decals stick better and get rid of bubbles, try wrapping a layer of thread over them with medium tension, just like an under wrap. That should sqeeze out any bubbles and give enough pressure for the adhesive to stick. remove the wraps after 10-
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