9ft 1 piece Jaws blank model: 91540 rated 15-40Lbs. The rod has med-hvy tip size 6.5, but heavy power from midsection down. I like that blank, i had another rod on a different 9ft jaws blank 12-30Lbs, i had no problem lifting 15-20lb fish on that blank. The lure is 4 Oz, but i usually do 1Oz to check if the tip shakes. I did pretty good on the other blank, but on this one i tried some new layout
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Tom, I've purchased the MicroWave 30 system, and did the measurements accordingly using the information what was shipped along with the set, and that created a big shake in the tip, when reeling in an 1Oz weight. So i figure it had to do something with the fact that the reel may not have the necessary angle for such system to work, but i guess i'll have to pass on that 30 system. Now, they did
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Does anyone know for sure if Shimano Thunnus 8000 has any angle at all to pinpoint the chokepoint distance? I've been scratching my head on this for awhile and i can't seem to get an accurate answer. I know x27 puts me in average where i should be, but just wondering if there are more accurate measurements for this reel. Any ideas?
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John E Powell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Improper balance can certainly cause the vibration > your describing, but so can the upsweep angle of > the reel's spool. Geometrically speaking, when a > spinning reel's face is not 3-dimensionally > perpendicular to the line travel path, it is > impossible to achieve a consistent line retriev
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Could it be that the thunnus rotor isn't as > balanced, and creates a wobble noticed in the tip, > when you reel your line back in? Unfortunately i don't have another TU8000CI4 reel to compare apple to apple, but like i wrote earlier, the only major difference that I’ve seen between these two reels
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I'm using 3 transitional ALPS guides size 40 25 12 and for running guides i went with FUJI's 5.5 BLDs of 20lb braid. The rod is sensitive, however i notice that it has that tip vibration when using shimano's TU8000CI4. When i used okuma Cedros CJF-55 that shake is not noticeable. Both reels are about the same size, however seems to me that shimano TU8000CI4 is not build in angle where i couldn’
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I had my first 9' spinning rod build, and i was wondering if anyone can help me out to understand what is the general cause of having an unwanted tip vibration while reeling in?
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Well, i end up using the product, and unfortunately is not what i want. ThreadMaster ONE becomes tacky when wiped with paper towel and alcohol just like many of the water-based polyurethane out there after fully cured and if mixed with 50/50 distilled water on a 5-6 layers re-coating , becomes white-cloudy. Although, i do like how flexible is, and when used with single food guides, seems to hav
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That's really good to know. Thank you Kevin. Also, since this product is so new on the market, i have another question. Would this product work well mixing with mineral powder for marbling type applications? I'm assuming that ThreadMaster ONE would not work with epoxy type liquid pigments, since is water based. although i'm debating if this will work with mineral powder pigments. Any thoughts abo
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Is ThreadMaster ONE solvent resistant after fully dried? I had used before water based urethane products, where they start to become tacky after just cleaning the rod with paper towel and alcohol.
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Well, today i start building the 9ft jaws blank, where i added the eva grips, butt and the reel seat, i'm just waiting for the epoxy to dry up to test the guides that i got today, but - i have some doubts. I ordered KW's 30, 20 & 10 as well as KL-H 25, 12, 5.5 and about 8 LDB's for the belly section plus size 5 tip. I'm still not sure if should i play around with KW's or just go straight with
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Theoretically speaking, for running guides, are Fuji LDB's stronger then KB's or none will be good for my 12-30lb class rod? I understand that in reality this is still under ongoing tests, although i would like to try myself as well. I still try to understand how short is too short in running down the line from the stripper to the first runner guide. Can anyone tell me why the GPS software from a
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Has anyone build spinning surf rod(s) for +30lb class on +8ft blanks that notice improved differences in casting using Fuji's KR Concept with any of the K guide series? I'm still new to this concept, and my next project involves building a 9ft 1pc surf rod in 12-30lb class from jaws. I was reading left ant right for weeks about Fuji's KR Concept, but there isn't any clarification about this new c
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Here is an idea:
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If someone would tell you - i'll pay you $2,000 to make me a rod that can handle a 1,500lbs shark from land - meaning - no option to chase the shark with a boat - what would be your answer on that?
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John Timberlake, Did you see any color changes or cracks after few years on blanks that you coated with maxseal? From what John Martines said on his post Max Seal - quote "is NOT solvent resistant" - did you Timberlake, happen to run into issues like this on any of your rods?
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > UV protected does not necessarily mean protection > against yellowing. Often, it refers to structural > degradation. > > .............. In this case if often, it refers to structural degradation, then that means that this product should not crack overtime, since they do advertise it as an UV Prot
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Being in South Florida, the sun pretty much yellows epoxy more fast then in a four season weather areas. So, basically, just painting a blank and try it to keep it as UV protected as possible seams not to be a such an easy job without health risks involved . I think i'll gonna go ahead and use it as top coat since PG or LS are too hot for this particular project build.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No I do not know it I do know the auto type clears > it is just the price of getting them and trying > to get them to do a Blank > > Also i keep looking at this stuff > > Price is good and it has been talked about as a > good product ?? Yeah one problem with that think LIKE M
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > John > > Not to be a pain but did you wipe it on > How long did it take to fully cure > And most of all - how hard was it when cured Good > to wrap over hard smooth From your post seams that you know pretty well this product, so let me ask you as easily as possible - Do you observe any c
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Can this product be also used to final coat an entire 80lb class rod? Or, will crack overtime?
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Anyone uses the aliphatic polyurethane coating "Max Seal" from Polymer Products? I would like to get some feedback if anyone wanna share.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Right. > > ................ Thank you all for your help!
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It will yellow, as will all epoxies. > > ............. So, basically permagloss, LumiSeal or automotive two part urethane would be the only way to go without having the issue of yellowing overtime, is that right?
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Would aftcote work to protect the white paint from UV radiation and remain crystal clear layer overtime or will yellow like any other epoxy used for coating?
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I would like some opinions on what would work best on coating a shark rod. The blank is spray painted in white with krylon fusion, white color and i would like to coat it without having the issue of yellowing after a while or loosing the white color. I was thinking on using "classic supper coat" or permagloss. Would that work? If not, what should i use?
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Col Chaseling Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Bogdan, > I'm not an expert on spiral wraps but I've done > several and they all turned out pretty good. Do a > search here using all dates and you'll turn up a > lot of info. The Ralph O'Quinn method is pretty > good for casting. If you've got a right hand reel > spiral to the right, le
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Hello, This is my first post here, i'm from Florida and heavily involved in shark fishing. Before i ask my question, i would like to mention that this is would be my first rod build and your help is really appreciated. I got an older 8'.3" seeker blank,(i don't have the model number) rated at 80-130lb fast action, and i would like to build it for casting and shark fishing. The butt of
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