I've used Mini-wax polycrylic as color preserver -- it works just as well as an other.
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Mike, thanks for your feedback on these blanks. Do you fish a Quickline? If so, which one? I'm considering a 9'9wt for a striper/albie build.
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Questions for folks who have 9' 9wt rods built on the Pac bay Quickline blank... What line do you like? Are you overlining w/ a #10 or is it a true #9 (i.e. 230-250 grain line)? Switching gears, a build question. I've built freshwater fly rods and prefer snakes on them. Here I am considering two approaches concerning guides. 1. Strippers: 1#16, 1#12, running guides Fuji k-series 1
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mark steffen, Steffen bros fly rods makes an 8'6" 7/8 at 3 pc fiberglass blank.
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at this point, leaning toward PacBay Quickline.
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Thanks for the help guys. I have been thinking about a TFO Mangrove blank, among others but not sold yet on anything. Don, thanks I'll check out the ATC Bushido blanks. I'm in no hurry as this will be a winter project for me. I appreciate your continued advice and blank suggestions.
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Prices of Lami fly blanks have shot up in the last year or so. They used to be pretty reasonably priced-- around $100; they're about $160 today. They are two piece tip over butt ferruled. They are slow and soft. Perfect for small flies, small stream work where casts of 40' or less are required. I like the 7' 3wt. For the same price you can get a Steffen glass blank. A great value in glas
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Looking for suggestions for a 9' 9wt graphite fly rod blank. This will be my first saltwater build and it is intended primarily for inshore fishing in the Northeast for stripers, blues, albies...maybe pike, musky too. Your thoughts, suggestions are appreciated.
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Good point. Exactly my question. I'm just thinkin a lighter, stiffer material like graphite might be better for casting longer distance, especially in windy conditions. Would also be easier on my arm. Thoughts?
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Maybe I should stick with what I have. While in the OBX I fished my 8.5' Hardy Sceptre glass with a 7 weight intermediate running line and sinking head and it performed admirably. Just thinking that graphite might be better for casting into wind, making quicker, longer casts. Plus it's lighter, and should be easier after a day of fishing, on my 60 year old arm and shoulder!
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Thanks for responses so far. I hope to keep finished rod costs to +/- $350. Is that realistic? As far as blank goes, I am willing to trade off a bit of weight for a blank that will cast greater distance and deal with wind. Would love to find an older Sage or Loomis blank... What can I expect to pay for such a blank? And what others are out there that are comparable performance-wise.
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After years of fly fishing in freshwater I got bit by the saltwater bug while visiting the Outer Banks of NC this summer. Now I'm ready to build a fly rod for inshore SW targeting speckled trout, puppy drum, blues, maybe striped bass. I'm thinking an 8' or 9' 8wt would do nicely. What do you think? Any blanks you can recommend?
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Hi Gary, sent you an email too!
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OK --- so how do I find out what the ERN rating is of a given 9' 6wt graphite rod blank?
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That's exactly what I was looking for -- an alternative to using tape for temporary guide placement. I'm gonna try the rubber bands and that other stretchy stuff. i thought about using short, narrow cable ties. I want something that will hold the guides on the blank and will slide up or down as they need to be adjusted. Thanks for the ideas!
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what do you use to hold guides in place to check for proper placement and test casting? i have used a few different kinds of tape. It holds the guides well, but when you need to adjust guides up or down on the the blank it is a real pain. you have to untape, retape, and it's time consuming, tedious and leaves the blank a sticky mess. must be an easier way...
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Good advice... here's the scoop. Rod will be used to fish big water where casts of 40+ feet will be the norm. Flies would be from #4 streamers to #18 dries and everything in between. I realize that's a tall order. What do you think?
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I trimmed the male ferrule again, for a third time. In total I removed about 5/16" and now the femaie ferrule seats nice and tight. A hypothetical question: Is there a point at which you must stop trimming the male ferrule back? Would you not reach a point where the increasing diameter of the male ferrule prevents it from going far enough into the female to make a secure fit? Thank
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Hi, I'm Looking for a 9' #5 or #6 wt graphite fly rod blank. I do not want an ultra fast, stiff blank. I want a blank with a "medium-fast" action, one that flexes deeper into -- not just tip flex -- the rod. I'm thinking IM6? The rod is intended as a big river rod for large trout and smallmouth bass. What blank(s) would you suggest?
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I cut 1/8" off of the end of the male ferrule. I fitted the sections together. The female ferule is still not completely seated. I cut another 1/8" and that made a much better fit. Not perfect, but a lot better. I think it will be fine. I'm going to wrap it, fish it. If it acts up, I'll deal with it. I've read where others have built up the male ferrule with a coat or two of Per
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I cut 1/8" off of the end of the male ferrule. I fitted the sections together. The female ferule is still not completely seated. I cut another 1/8" and that made a much better fit. Not perfect, but a lot better. I think it will be fine. I'm going to wrap it, fish it. If it acts up, I'll deal with it. I've read where others have built up the male ferrule with a coat or two of Per
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I have the blank taped at the 1/8" mark as a cutting guide and to prevent splitting. It's a 7' honey glass Lami. Thanks again for your help and I'll let you know how the "surgery" goes.
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Tom, I was joking about the "scalpel" -- I was going to use a Dremel, but if you think a file or fine tooth saw works better, I have them too. Thanks for all your advice. :)
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OK, I'll get the scalpel out. I just dont want to take off too much :o
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Thanks guys. I'm gonna take a conservative approach to your idea of trimming the male ferrule back. I've drawn a line on the butt section of the blank 1/8" down from the plug on the male ferrule. I'll start by sanding a little and then fitting the sections together until I get a nice neat fit, and go from there. I will attempt to reuse the plug. If I can't I have some RodBond I can
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Thanks. Trimming the top end of the male ferrle (this is the butt section), is easy enough. But what about the little rubber stopper that's there now? If I cut the top end of the male ferrule section willI be able to reuse that rubber plug?
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I got a 2-piece tip over butt Lami blank a while ago and never noticed that the ferrule fit was a mess. At that point I had the grip and seat on the butt section and guides taped in place. I joined the sections together to test cast and immediately discovered the loose ferrule engagement. When joined, the female, seated as far down on the male ferrule as she can go, is too big. There is a hair
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I got a 2-piece tip over butt Lami blank a while ago and never noticed that the ferrule fit was a mess. At that point I had the grip and seat on the butt section and guides taped in place. I joined the sections together to test cast and immediately discovered the loose ferrule engagement. When joined, the female, seated as far down on the male ferrule as she can go, is too big. There is a
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OK -- sounds good. I am gonna definitely pretreat the section of cork I'll be wrapping. I've got a vote for color preserver, one for Permagloss, one for Lumiseal. I suppose I could use a couple of thin coats of spar spar varnish. I was thinking I might lightly sand the coated cork surface to give the thread something to grab on to.
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thanks guys.
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