Mike's definitely on target when trolling. If I understood you (Daniel), this would be bottom fishing, which is a little different. Trolling, I set the drag to just hold whatever bait or lure I have on the line. Bottom fishing, you need more drag to keep the fish from getting back into it's hole. You can handle the heavier drag settings for Grouper and other bottom fish but you have to be ready f
Forum: rodboard

Seeker has a 6 1/2 ft 30-80lb jig/live bait blank CJBF65H and you could go with something like a CALSTAR 64660XH 40-100lb. These should both work for jigging (I know the Seeker does). But even though the blank is rated to handle the 70lb drag you plan to put on it, it is still close to the top range of the rod. If you are asked to build a jigging rod capable of 70lb drag, you should look for a
Forum: rodboard

It sounds like you started placing guides at the tip. Do a static test to position the rest of the guides. the ones towards the tip might be close enough for your liking. If the line doesn't flow smoothly through the guides as they are, it's only a little time to remove and reposition. And a little more thread. Fly rod = not that much thread. Jeff
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The easiest way I've found is to use a credit card (like the ones you get in the mail wanting you to use their bank). Rotate the rod or let the dryer rotate it for you. Rest the edge of the card against the blank. The excess epoxy will be removed from the high areas but will remain in the lower areas to give you an even finish. I usually do this with the second coat so as not to disturb wraps fro
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What length were you looking for overall? The curved butt will shorten the rod a little but it's alot easier using a short straight butt on a stand-up. You can get blanks in varying lengths and should be able to trim the butt section down some if desired. The short straight butt adds about 19" to the rod length. The curved butt not that much less. Jeff
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Chuck, It's easier to make intricate designs in block EVA versus round EVA and much better to start with a solid block rather than one pre-bored so you don't have to worry about the hole lining up over the length of the block. What I'm trying to figure out is how to bore the block and maintain a smooth surface on the inside. Bits will generally tear the foam which might not be bad for adhesion,
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That would probably make a good bit. If I get some time in the next couple weeks, I'll weld a shaft on the end of a sharpened tube, build a support to keep the foam from flexing, and hopefully it goes through it like butter. Might be a usefull tool to have. Jeff
Forum: rodboard

Thanks Hank. I'll need to adapt the jig box to work on the lathe and try a few different types of bits but the pictures hit me with what I'd need to do. Jeff
Forum: rodboard

What are you all using to center bore block EVA and getting a nice smooth cut without tearing the foam? If set up in a lathe, it would seem the block would need exterior bracing to keep it square and keep it from flexing while the bit goes through. Jeff
Forum: rodboard