I have been using regular Flex-Coat on all the rods I have built (7 total). It seems that I get "good" results at best. There is always some little flaw that arises: dimples in the finish, clouding, uneveness. I have gone to EXTREME care to avoid all the pitfalls of dust, contamination, room temperature. I know some of it may be operator error, but I need my finish to be perfect, or as close to it as possible. Is LS Supreme a better solution? Any other products suggested. Thanks for the input.

Ron,

I use both, depending on the rod. Large butt wraps I like Flex Coat. Most fly rods I use LS Supreme. I don't think it is a matter of one being better. The LS is thinner and when dry, it is crystal clear. If you need more time while applying the finish, the LS has a lot longer "pot life". But on bigger rods especially ones with deep relief in the butt wraps, it would take forever to coat with LS. I am just as careful while applying either, I can mess up one just as fast as the other. I would definately try the LS Supreme, you might love it.

Bill Doherty

Because Flex Coat is not inherently flawed, I would have to believe that simply switching finishes is not going to change anything for you. In fact, Flex Coat is used by most builders to obtain a perfect finish.

Nothing wrong with trying another finish and perhaps you'll find it more compatible with your finishing technique. But I will surprised if that is the case.

Trying to fix finishing problems over a message board is tough - you really need to watch someone apply the finish so you can see the whole process. Sometimes it is the simplest of things that manage to slip in a ruin a finish job.

................

I don't know if this is all a "mental" thing with me, but I used to use the throw away brushes and had some problems. I just recently purchased a natural hair brush and now I "seem" to get a much better finish.

Like I said, I have no clue if it is just a mental improvement, but I do see a difference. It works for me.

Dave

Ron,
I use Flex Coat lite on most of my applications except when I do saltwater rods then I use the heavy Flex Coat. But I had problems of bubbles and talking with Flex Coat they told me some things that I didn't realize I was doing. Like when mixing don't mix with a wood stick as it can retain moisture and cause problems when mixing. They told me to use there thow away brushes handle and then instead of stirring in a circle which creates bubbles try stirring from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock and every so often just turn the cup until you have all parts mixed together. When applying the coating sometimes I trim the brushes bristles shorter so I don't have as much coating on the brush and it goes on alittle thinner and smoother. I haven't yet tried the better bristle brushes and keep thinking of trying it but maybe the next time I will to see if I get even a better finish.
Hope this was of help to you,
Neal Cissel

The problem is not with the finish. All good suggestions above. You also might try the synthetic white bristle brushes you can buy at any big hobby/craft store.

Here is my two cents !

Everything mentioned previously works great. I find applying finish is a learned skill. Ya gotta mess a few up before you get 'em all right!

I mix with a wooden popsicle stick, I use a plastic spoon to measure with - dont get picky on getting a real even amount of hardener for resin. I always use just a "pinch" more hardener to insure the material will harden. I goop if on being careful not to let the flex coat run up the guide feet and look globbed! I let the dryer rotate a short while and look for bubbles. Den I get my hand held torch out and while rotating attack the bubbles. I whisk the flame across the finish to dispell the bubbles and make the finish run. Make sure you dont catch the finish on fire by leaving the flame on the finish to long!! Short quick to finish strokes. Leave plenty of ventilation in the room to. While "flaming" the finish watch for dust, bugs, etc and remove with a dry throw away brush. Make sure no threads go without a coating - use your brush to even it out as the finish sets. Dont go overboard with the flame - just enough to get the finish to run and move on. Takes practice.

I get conistently clear, no bubble finishes - just gotta watch for the globs on the guide feets

ron

Ron,

If it works for you then so be it. But a word of caution is in order here. It is never a good idea to add more hardener than resin. While you may think that ensures that you will get a good cure - it doesn't. You should mix 1:1 to get a guaranteed cure plus all the other benefits that have been built into the finish for use on thread wraps.

Heating is fine - on most finishes. Some will react to heat differently and I speak of the LS Supreme which can boil at 160F or so and actually create more bubbles. Luckily, the Supreme tends to release bubbles of its own accord.

If anyone would like to use heat to help momentarily thin other finishes and help to release bubbles, you should use the gentle heat from an alcohol lamp or a butane lighter in a pinch. The flame can be held under the wrap by a few inches and moved to and fro underneath while the rod is rotated. You don't want to cook the finish nor make it runny. Just slightly warming it usually thins it enough to effectively remove the bubbles.

Of course, I do realize that there are a great many techniques used by different builders to get excellent finishing results.

.................................

Flex Coat is a fine finish to use. I like using it with buttwraps also as Bill mentioned.
The features that are good with flex coat include smooth leveling, good consistent coverage, flexible and durable finish. Other finishes have features such as longer pot life.

The 'bubble' problem can be seen with many finishes. In the case of flex coat, it is more tolerant to the use of heat in helping the bubbles disappear. Mixing can be done with a wooden applicator, but plastic sticks are still recommended. I think this creates less bubbling in the initial mixing. Make sure though, that THOROGH mixing is achieved and follow strictly the measurements of 1:1 ratio for OPTIMAL results.
(this is valid for just about any 2 part epoxy product).

Rich
Richard' s Rod & Reel
www.rodreel.com
Solyrich Custom Rods

I used flex coat, while there are no bubbles, I find the finish looks a little bumby.
Can I sand over the bumbs and then apply a second coat. I know if I sand over the finish it will show scratch marks from the steel wool. Will a second coat over the sanding marks make them disapear.