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Which spine?==> hypalon remove
Posted by:
quintin george
(---.tlna.com)
Date: January 27, 2002 08:26PM
I just dropped a 1/2 finished blank on a marble and found that it gave me a different spine than the spine I found with the old hand roll method. Upon further investigation, I found that I got the new spine by pressuring the tip while I got the old spine by pressuring about 1/4 down the blank. I assume I should use the spine found by pressuring the tip,==> does anyone have any tips for removing hypalon grips installed with flexcoat rod builders epoxy? Re: Which spine?==> hypalon remove
Posted by:
William Colby
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: January 27, 2002 08:40PM
You need to apply pressure to the entire blank which you can only do by applying your pressure to the very tip. The effect will spiral as you move down the blank so you want to get the effect over the entire length. Even with the hand roll method you don't want to pressure 1/4 way down the blank. Hold the very tip in one hand and the butt on the floor or table. Then press pretty firmly in the middle and you should get the same results you got with the mable. The only way I know to remove hypalon that has been installed correctly is to either turn it off on a lathe or shave it off with a sharp knife. Don't have any idea how you might get it slip off undamaged. Re: Which spine?==> hypalon remove
Posted by:
Hugh Miller
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: January 27, 2002 10:07PM
With a sharp razor blade make a shallow incision the entire length of the grip. Repeat as necessary until you get near the blank. If it was done commercially you can probably pop it off in one piece. If not you may need to slice sections of the grip off bit by bit until you have only a thin grip left around the blank. Sanding with "Sandscreen" or equivalent will probably be necessary to remove the remnants Re: Which spine?==> hypalon remove
Posted by:
Rob Boughton
(65.82.96.---)
Date: January 28, 2002 10:00AM
If you found the rod has a stronger and a weaker spine and aligned the seat to the weaker spine, you will still have a very stable rod when it's complete. It will simply have a bit more backbone--not entirely undesirable. If you find you are not on a spine at all, then cut and rebuild. Most rods have more than one spine, possessing different characteristics, one will just be more dominant--termed the "effective" spine. It's not altogether wrong to build on the less dominant spine, and some builders choose to do just that. The key word being "choose." Re: Which spine?==> hypalon remove
Posted by:
Quintin George
(---.tlna.com)
Date: January 28, 2002 10:10AM
Thanks all! Bob, I am inclined to do just that. The blank is a bit whimpy - Lami WMB841E, and I recall the rod loading a bit further down. It has been a while since I test casted the rod, and I was not really looking for any twist/torque (whatever the term is). So I guess I'll take it out again, maybe tonight - its 64 degrees in NYC. Re: Which spine?==> hypalon remove
Posted by:
William colby
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: January 28, 2002 09:34PM
You'll only get twist or torque if your guides are on top. If it's spinning style with guildes on bottom it won't twist. The spine has no effect or the rod twisting or torqueing. That's determined by guide location. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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