I recently compared my first rod with my latest. Same blank and components, but the difference was like night and day!

The first rod has a 10" butt wrap, and slight "footballs" around the guide wraps. That rod is noticably slower than my later rods, which only have a coat of epoxy at the butt, and nice, even epoxy over the guide wraps. Could the butt wrap have something to do with it, or is it mostly due to the heavier epoxy at the

Since the difference is so obvious, would it be even better to use a thinner bodied epoxy than the Flex Coat I'm currently using? What other epoxies would be thinner, yet be strong enough to fully protect the guide wraps with a single application? LS Supreme? Crystal Coat?

I know this is all opinion, but I value you guy's opinions.
Thanks,

TH

NOT Crystal Coat if you are planning on getting by with a single application. Crystal Coat is desirable for very thin properties and very thin coats. For butt sections, inlays, wraps etc... I used to have to apply up to 6 coats to get complete coverage with CC. LS supreme can be applied in a single coat and level well, but, trust me, you will get a better finish result with multiple coats and much fewer lumps, footballs etc.. LS with 2 coats is superb.

Thanks for the info, Elrod.

Cosmetics aside, will one coat of LS fully protect guide wraps, or is two needed? If two coats is really needed, does it end up being just as heavy as a single shot of Flex Coat, or is it still lighter?

It sounds like two coats of LS makes pretty work, and I will use that in the future. But right now I'm looking for lightness and durability, since these rods are for my personal use.

By the way, I have enjoyed your posts, and watching you discover and learn and invent. I'm WAY down the learning curve, but I love the sense of discovery that I get from this new hobby. And the help from you guys is VERY much appreciated! Thanks again.

TH

A thinner bodied epoxy is not needed. Just use less of whatever it is that you are using now. You can apply the heavier epoxies just as thinly as the less viscuous ones.

Extra weight does have an adverse effect on rod performance. Consider not only cutting down on the amount of epoxy you use, but keeping those wraps as short as possible on the to half of the rod. Less thread, less finish, less weight. I know it doesn't sound like much, but if you want to see what just a bit of weight can do, play around with a naked blank and then glue a simple tip-top on it and play with it some more. You can feel the difference.

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Tom,

Thanks for the reply. Making the wraps shorter was another thing I have been doing with the newer rods. Good advice!

I guess the question is, with the heavier bodied epoxies, will a thinner coat penetrate and level as nicely as the thinner ones? Would "flaming" the epoxy help?

Thanks again!

TH

Oh yes. And remember that technique is more important than the finish that is used. "Flaming" epoxy is generally done not to level it (all epoxies will automatically level - pour some out on the countertop and watch what happens - it levels) but to temporairily thin it so bubbles will release. But you can overdo the flaming thing. A very gentle, and brief, application of heat is all that is needed. Keep the flame moving and well below the finish. You are trying to warm it, not cook it.

Unless you are late in the game and the finish is partially set, penetration is not much of a problem. It has more to do with pot life than thickness however. Something with a long pot life like the LS Supreme will penetrate because it stays "wet" longer. But nearly all will penetrate if you are quick in applying them.


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Thank you again, Tom, for the info.

Perhaps because I'm new, I always have to race to get all the epoxy all on before it starts getting thicker. Maybe I mix too long? Spreading over foil helps a little. I don't have a good application tool for that work, either, besides a small artist brush, which seems to apply it the best.

I think I'm going to try some Supreme, just for the heck of it, and see how it works. I am very happy with the Flex Coat, but trying something new never hurts.

TH

As I just posted in the other thread, I'm definitely going to try mixing two smaller coats of Flex Coat first, to see if it helps, and use some of the other tips I've been given.

But I also look forward to trying the LS. Sounds like what I am looking for. Thanks.

-TH