It seems many people are having the same problem I am, and that is dimples and waves in epoxe finish over threads. Although mimimal I would still like to have a flat, smooth finish.I have seen on previous posts that you can sand down the epoxe to a smooth finish before the final coat or two. I would like to know how long should I wait after the last coat of epoxe before I start sanding? Is there a particular procedure or grade of sandpaper to use ? Any input you may have will certainly expand my education.

Thank you,
Tom

Tom,

The different epoxies and finishes have different cure rates. When you mix your epoxy, have enough left over so you have a sample,(i.e. enough in the bottom of your mix cup that you can poke, prod, etc without messing up your finished rod). As for sanding, I've only had to do that once, and that's because the gear drive went out on my 20 year old motor. I've been using LS Supreme lately and have found that three thin coats does the trick for a smooth finish. Anyways, multiple thin coats turn out better results than one or two heavy coats regardless of the brand of epoxy. Hope this helps you out.

Tom,
You can sand the finish. I have used 400 grit sand paper and then finish it with a piece of gray scothbrite. But, a smooth finish can be done the first time without sanding. Here's what I do whether I'm using LS Sumpreme or Flexcoat. I put on a very thin coat the first time. Just enough to soak the threads and fill in between the patterns. I assume that was your problem. That it was wavy between patterns where there was exposed blank. Apply another coat but just a little thicker. I then put on a third coat which should come out smooth all the way across. To me, it's all in the application. Some folks can probably put on one thick coat and get that smooth finish, but this is what works for me.

Steve

I have never had to sand any. The only reason to sand would be to get imperfections out, hair bubbles dust. I load my wraps on a quick turner then warm it up with a hair dryer to flow. Let dry to the touch. If not level add another coat. Three coats or more if nessary. If you let it dry for three four days, then scoff with a fine pad I use Glass Coat, but I thin mine

Tom
I just completed a rod using LS supreme. On the initial coat over the inscription area I wound up with a wavy finish. When this happened on my first couple of rods I discovered it was due to applying epoxy in excess. This time I believe that my problem was a result of removing to much of the excess of the initial application and actually starving the coating. I applied the second coat with out sanding making certain that the coating was slightly in excess and the care fully and sparingly removed the apparent sags. I then used Tom Kirkman's manual rod turning method for the first hour of drying and ended up with a smooth and level finish. I'm convinced that applying the proper amount of finish is crucial in obtaining a smooth finish and sanding a wavy coat isn't necessary if a second coat is applied properly. I also think Tom is giving good advice when he says he turns manually 180 degrees at a time. One might get fine results with a turning motor most of the time but it appears to me that Mr. Kirkman turns manually for good reason.

Contaminants aside it is all in the application technique.

If you're having trouble with fisheyes one thing that you can "play" with is the pot life of the finish - let it sit for a few minutes, let it thicken a bit, before applying it. The surface tenison will have a much harder time breaking the surface on thicker finish.

Years ago I noticed the difference in the same brand name of finishes - the "lite" and "regular". The lite fisheyed, the regular build did not. Why? I asked myself. It was an easy answer.

I like the lite finishes for the way they penetrate the thread (I don't use cp). and like the regular builds because of how well a thick application holds. Since I apply directly from the mix cup it's easy to hold the finish in the cup for a few minutes and let it thicken if need be, or apply immediately at a watery consistency.

Avoid sanding freshly applied finish - it's bound to add contaminants to the curing finish, or, if you sand too deeply, you'll damage the underlying thread. On fresh applications follow up with subsequent coats 12-24 hours.

Steps :

1st very thin wetting coat
flame gently if needed
2nd thicker application
flame gently if needed.
let cure


Lou

Tom - I sand all my butt wraps, and even though I load up with epoxy, I usually put 4-5 coats on. I use 220 grit sandpaper on some sort of sanding block. Just HAVE TO make sure you have thick coats of epoxy on there, or you'l sand through and hit the threads.

How long to let cure, usually 2-3 days. After I sand I'l wipe the blank with a lint-free-ish paper towel (coffee filter - but there always seems to be a bit of lint here or there) dipped in Denatured. I know people will say Denaured will cause more harm than good, but I haven't had bad problems with fish-eyes, although one will pop up every now and then. Not a big deal, since I just slice it off, clean the hole, and re-aply another coat for a perfect finish.

Maybe LS works well for some guys's butt wraps, but for me I'll never use it on any butt wrap again. A - I can't get all the bubbles out. B - as you apply subsequent coats, it tends to migrate towards the high points created from a previous coat, making it more lumpy. I've only used it twice, on a medium and a large diameter blank.

I mainly use Classic, and apply a LOT of heat, making it runny to the point where it drips if possible without burning the finish/wrap. GO back to the drip spots, wick them off with my brush, again, 4 hours later it's a glass smooth finish with minimal lumps & bumps.

Smaller blanks are pretty easy to get a smooth finish on, the thicker the blank, and longer the wrap, the harder it is to get a nice looking finish. Most of my wraps are 10-12 inches long, on blanks with a center circumference of 45 millimeters plus (OD butt of the blanks are about 3/4")