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Rod Repair - Debonded Ferrule
Posted by:
Douglas Hrynkiw
(---.209-115-213-0.interbaun.com)
Date: December 22, 2001 08:47PM
Hi Folks: This problem became apparent on a fishing trip in late August, and appeared as a crack in the epoxy finish at the rod (hexagonal graphite fly) / male ferrule (Nic Silver) junction. Now that I have had time to remove the wrap and assess the dammage I have found the ferrule has de-bonded. I have slightly sanded the epoxy build up and micro blasted the interior of the ferrule (increase mechanical retention?) to provide for a very thin epoxy bond which I anticipate will be stonger. Is this an acceptable repair? Or is it better to remove the old epoxy to bare rod? Wishing everyone Safe and Happy Holidays from Canada Re: Rod Repair - Debonded Ferrule
Posted by:
William
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 22, 2001 09:17PM
I would guess that if the old epoxy is really, really on there well, that you could just leave it and be fine. I assume the new epoxy would bond to the old. But I'm not an expert here. Anyone? There was an article in one of the most recent issues of Rodmaker that talked about surface prep. That micro blasting appears to be nothing more than some fun on your end and will not create a better bond. A lightly scuffed and cleaned surface appears to be as good as you can get. Re: Rod Repair - Debonded Ferrule
Posted by:
Ralph O'Quinn
(---.pstbbs.com)
Date: December 23, 2001 02:20AM
Your problem is very simple. Nickel Silver is not a bondable entity. I know, there are literally thousands of nickel silver ferrules all over the world bonded onto bamboo and graphite rods. Many of them are pinned which helps, most of them are loose. Those that tend to stay in place for a few years do so because they are a very tight fit. The bond between the epoxy and the ferrule was never really very strong, maybe 10 - or even 20 psi which is really all a ferrule needs. By all means leave the old epoxy on the rod as this gives the re-bond to the ferrule its best fit. Now find yourself a good wetting epoxy (such as rod bond) and coat the surface of the old epoxy, and the inside of your micro-blasted ferrule. Join the two with a twisting motion. Continue to twist the ferrule after it is completely in place, remove it and repeat the process. Wipe up the mess created and set aside to cure. Do not use a high shear rigid brittle epoxy for this job, or you will be finding yourself repeating it again in about a year or so. Use a tough, flexible, high wetting system --such as rodbond. Nothing wrong with pinning the whole thing when the epoxy cures. We used to pin all bamboo rods , and the pin held the ferrule in place for many years after the glue had let go. The secret to keeping a nickel silver ferrule in place is to make sure you have a good tight fit. A fit so tight that you have to force it in place, even drive it on Ralph Re: Rod Repair - Debonded Ferrule
Posted by:
Robert Balcombe (REELMAN)
(---.gh.centurytel.net)
Date: December 23, 2001 04:35AM
Ralph O"Quin has answered all the needed points. Ralph is the garue ond finishes and bonding agents Have a happy Holiday Bob Re: Rod Repair - Debonded Ferrule
Posted by:
Eddie
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 23, 2001 02:13PM
If nichel silver isn't bondable with epoxy what should be used bond a silver butt cap? Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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