On NFC blanks, what do these mean before each blank number? (I’ve had no luck googling this)
1) MB (Mag Bass maybe?)
2) SSH
3) SJ
4)SWB
5) CP
6) IS
7) RPK
8) ST
9) SLJ
10) DS
11) SB
12) CB
13) FW
14) SA
15 HS

Only interested in bass rods and crappie type. If any of these abbreviations are for surf rods or fly fishing, you don’t have to answer those. Sorry for all the questions, I’m trying to learn.
I’m about to place my order tonight for all the equipment needed to rod build. I’m going with the “RBS PRO G2 Ultimate Power Wrapping & Finishing Machine”. I really don’t need a 4 spool wrapper, but it comes with it. If the $499 one with a little lesser quality roller system is perfectly fine, please let me know. Or, Flex Coat. I’ve looked over all of them a million times but you guys that use them is what I’m after. What you use, etc. I’ll also order the epoxy’s (G2), resin, wraps, etc etc. Please advise me on any other must have tools or tools that will make my life easier. This will be a hobby I’ll do for many years to come. Only reason I’m going with the best set out of the gate plus my wife gave me the green light to get a good quality set up. I can’t say no to that. I’m very excited to eventually get to building and learning (cussing a lot) along the way.

I’m ordering tonight, so PLEASE weigh in ASAP regarding the equipment setup. Much appreciated.

with regard to the abbreviations, click on NFC's catalog hyper link on the bottom of the opening page. As you browse the catalog for the rod type you're looking for (bass, crappie, etc.) you'll read a description of the series with the available rod blanks in the series listed below under subheadings (C = casting, CB = crankbait, SWB = swimbait/musky, SJ = spin jig, SLJ = slow jig, etc.). Each blank model number under the subheading will have the letter prefix of the subheading followed by the spec numbers. The application is described for each blank model.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2024 10:59PM by Daniel Grundvig.

Okay. That makes perfect sense. Thanks bud. Appreciate it!!

CP=Center Pin, ST=Steelhead, DS=Dropshot, SA=Salmon, FW=Freshwater (Trout, etc.), SB=Spin Bass (More powerful Spin Jig) HS=Hotshot, BB=Backbounce, SSF=Classic Fly, RPK=Heavy Saltwater, IS- X Ray Inshore, APFG=All Purpose Fast Glass, SST=?

I would say don't discount a blank just because of what series of blanks it comes from. A blank is a blank. If it has the characteristics you're looking for, it can be used to catch any fish. For instance, I'm a bass fisherman, but I just got done with two builds, one on an IS 694 X ray blank, which is labeled as an inshore blank, that I will be using as a drop shot and Ned rig rod. And a rod on an SW 764 Delta blank, which is designated a saltwater blank, that I built primarily for fishing smaller glide baits, but it's also a nice higher powered chatterbait rod.

Even rods labeled as MB, mag bass, which a lot of people see as blanks for casting rods, can be, and are built into spinning rods. Great spinning rods. Whether the blank has the characteristics you're looking for is what matters. Not what designation the manufacturer gives it.

Can't help on the rod wrappers you mentioned, but some suggestions for various supplies. Reamers of course, You can make your own from old broken rods, or rods that need retired, which is what I did. Or you can buy them. I have two of the CRB extreme reamers in the large and extra large size, and they work nicely. Personally, unless you may build ice rods, I'd go with their medium, large, and extra large sizes. The smallest end of the medium is larger than the ID of some grips and polyurethane arbors, but my next suggestion will handle that.

The Flex Coat pilot, and reverse pilot bits are IMO, must haves. You can use them, especially the reverse pilot bits, to open up the ID of your grips so you can get it close to the OD of your rod blank, which makes reaming and keeping your bore concentric while you ream, much MUCH easier. You don't need to order every size of course. Just the sizes that you think you'll need. For me and the blanks I built on, I have 3/8", and 7/16" pilot bits that I use for opening up foam arbors. And a 1/2" reverse pilot bit that I use for opening up the bore of the grips I use, or make. Other than having great lighting and magnification for when you're wrapping guides n such, the pilot and reverse pilot bits are the best thing I've ever purchased for rod building. Well, other than my power wrapper. lol

I just mentioned having great lighting and magnification for when you're wrapping guides. It is truly a must have. It makes life so much easier when you can see well. IMO you want bright white, or daylight type light. 3000K to 5000K. Personally I have 5000K daylight lighting over my wrapping table. I believe they are 4,000 lumen. They're bright !!!

Besides single edge razor blades, you might want to get yourself a pari of small scissors. I know when I first started wrapping I ruined more than a few wraps by nicking the already wrapped thread, with the razor blade when trimming the pull through thread. I'd also make a pull through loop out of old used braided fishing line. I use some old 15# Spider Wire braid that I have. If you're going to use a piece of braid just off the filler spool, I would make sure you clean it with isopropyl alcohol first. Soak it and wipe it a few times until you start to see it lose its' color. Some of the braids will shed color, and you don't want it shedding color on your wrap thread. Some also have lubricants on their surfaces, and you don't want anything contaminating your thread, as that can lead to problems with fish eyes in your finish, etc ....

Some 1/8 and 1/4" masking tape comes in very handy for holding thread ends on the blank while wrapping, or making masking tape arbors, or taping on guides when the need arises. For holding guides on your rod while placing and wrapping, I use the tubing that Mud Hole offers. I have it in all 4 sizes that they offer, and it works great. You can cut pieces to any length you like, and it makes repositioning guides real easy when you're placing them using static load.

As far epoxies for gluing up reel seats and grips and the like. I use U40 Rod Bond. They have a 10 minute, and a standard set up time. The 10 minute is nice if you want something to set up quickly, but I usually just use their standard formula. As far as finish for guides, I've fallen in love with Gen 4 high build. It's less viscous than other high builds I've used. And while it takes a little longer to get tack free than other finishes I've used, it has excellent bubble release, and clarity. The self sealing stoppers I'd guess you'd call them, that go in the ends of your finish bottles are really nice to have, and eliminate needing to wipe down the outside of your syringes when extracting finish parts from their bottles.

Mixing cups and mixing sticks for finish and epoxies. The little aluminum dishes that Mud Hole offers are great for pouring your finish into after mixing and prior to applying it on your wraps. And you definitely want to pour your finish out on to something. Either an aluminum foil dish you make, or one of the ones I just mentioned. It lets the finish spread out making it thinner in depth which lets any bubbles in the mixture release more easily. And it also lets the heat caused by the chemical reaction between the two epoxy parts dissipate, which helps extend its' pot life.

Anyhow ..... you'll learn what you like and don't like, as you go along. Hope I've helped a little.

Oh I needed to add, just in case you didn't know ........... putting finish on your wraps will change the color of the thread, unless you use thread that is already treated with color preserver. You can apply color preserver over regular nylon thread, but the color preserver will change the color a little, and I find that it dulls the sheen of the thread. I've tried 3 different color preservers, and the one that preserves the sheen of the thread the best seems to be the Gen 4 Vivid color preserver. But it still knocks down the sheen.

Applying finish makes thread turn translucent, which is why the color changes. The background color is coming through a bit. Personally I like and play with the color change to get some what I think are beautiful colors. Just something to be ready for, if you didn't already know



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/03/2024 07:59AM by David Baylor.

Again, thank you for all the help. Everything you mentioned, I have most of it with the order I placed, minus the reamers. Damn it, I knew I was forgetting to buy something, the reamers. I’d love to work with cork, but that will be later down the road.. I’ll make up some thread puller loops with some of my spider wire at some point.

I don’t need an actual thread finisher mixer do I? Surely I can get it mixed by hand real good. Mix until minimal bubbles are showing? If it’s a must have, I’ll get it.

No, you really don't need a finish mixer. The big key in mixing finish so you don't introduce air into the mixture, is to make sure your mixing utensil doesn't leave the edge of the mixture. If it leaves the mixture pool, like say when you're tilting your mixing cup to make sure you're bringing in the finish on the walls of the mixing cup, it brings air into the mixture when your mixing utensil re enters the mixture. There is no need to mix quickly, there is a need to mix thoroughly. I use Gen 4 high build, and still have some Flex Coat high build to use up. I mix in those little plastic shot glass looking cups you probably saw on Mud Hole. I mix for at least 2 minutes on up to 3 minutes. Enough so I don't see any cloudy looking swirls in the mixture.

and… I forgot to order the color preserver stuff. SMH…. FML!!!

Care to share your favorite blanks for bass fishing w/ intended bait usage?

Hi Jeremy i have some help from learned mistakes when you mix handle and grips mix it on a paper plate to mix and use get clean wood flat sticks have three one for mix and apply and one for hardner and one for resin mark the end you use as not to mix when getting equal parts of hardner and resin what you have leftover leave to check that it cures touch the mix part the next day with thread epoxy get the syringes made from the thread epoxy i go cheap on my mixing cups they are from the hot dog stand that are for ketchup i have a cover from electrical tape that i line with foil to pour from the little cup apply to the guides after they are aligned hang a white sheet of printing paper on a well lit wall and sight them looking at the paper before they get thread coating let the left over be out to check the next day to make sure it set you can leave a finger print on the stuff in the foil but you dont want it on your finished rod plenty of light plenty of room left to right and no ceiling fan on when lifting up to look at you blank take your time you will learn more after each build the best thing after the build is catching your first fish on it you took it from print to ordering parts to making it have fun doing it i have made rods for my two grand kids and get a kick of seeing them catch bluegills on them enjoy the build to enjoy the fishing time with it

If your thinking of rod building equipment and supplies.

Casey at Voodoo Rods is hands down a winner in all categories. You will not be displeased with their products and esp. their service in any way. I have been using them exclusively for over a decade now. When there is an error, either mine or his, it's corrected no issue.

Most of the time its on my end, the incoming new products and accessories gets me every time, no really!