I've read so many times of the disadvantage of the weight of masking tape arbors, but never weighed them. Until today. Two 3/4 inch arbors with wall thickness of .140 inch weight a total of .062 ounces.

Yes, I know rigid polyurethane is better. Didn't have any and wanted to get on with the build. No, I've never had a failure of a masking tape arbor. I totally encapsulate mine and with my construction, I doubt if any water gets in anyway. No I won't use drywall mesh. I find it too messy and hard to handle and fit.

Hello Michael.

I've got a question for you; how much does the extra epoxy weigh?

You know when you encapsulate a tape arbor you use more epoxy than a thin coat on an arbor.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Robert,

Why would there be any extra epoxy?" Surely you aren't filling in the space between the masking tape bushings (at least I hope not). Encapsulating means you're just coating over the ends of the tape to seal out any moisture.

......

Personally, I think worrying about the weights of a polyurethane arbor versus masking tape arbors and the epoxy they required for use, is well .......... kind of silly. The weight is at the reel seat. Does anyone really think they'd be able to feel the weight difference?

But, since I have nothing better to do at the time, I figured I'd weigh and measure a couple of things, and post the results.

First, I weighed and measured a section of a polyurethane foam arbor. A 2.5" section of arbor with an OD of .604" and a wall thickness of .178", weighs .062 oz. Interestingly, the same weight as the shorter and thinner walled masking tape arbors. Next, I weighed some Rod Bond. 1 fairly healthy gob of each part, that would be more than enough to completely encapsulate the masking tape arbors, and cover to the required thickness, at least 2.5" of exposed blank between the two arbors. Weight of the epoxy, .176 oz. And I would definitely be scraping off excess epoxy as I was sliding the reel seat into place.

So, the weight difference between a foam arbor, and masking tape arbors and the epoxy needed for their use, is .176 oz. Or, slightly less than 3/16 oz. Tape 3/16 oz to your reel seat and tell me if you can honestly feel the difference.

Personally, I use and prefer foam arbors because I think they provide better sensitivity. But I certainly can't prove it. It just makes sense to me, that they would. I do know, from using masking tape arbors on my most recent spinning rod build using an XO skeleton grip, that masking tape arbors are way easier to use. But with that said, no way would I use masking tape arbors that are much more than .0625" thick. If I need to fill a gap bigger than that, even if they are more difficult to use, I'll use a foam arbor.

Robert, I think Tom is right. I expect the amount of epoxy is about the same. Either way, as David Baylor points out, it's not much weight.

David, I agree, but thought some might be interested since every time it comes up some comment on how heavy masking tape is. I like to use foam arbors, too, but didn't have one. I think foam arbors are easier than tape. Buy to fit the ID of the seat, glue them in, then ream them, which is very quick and easy.

When people claim masking tape is heavier, I think it is because they either are, or they assume, that you should fill in the space between the tape arbors/bushings with epoxy. That would indeed be heavy. It would also be completely unnecessary.

...............

I don't fill that space. Just encapsulate the arbors.

Hello Tom.

I must not be real good at encapsulating tape because it always. takes me a little more epoxy to completely cover the tape then to thinly coat a bushing.

I know it's not much but I've seen guy's on this site cry obout.01grams.

When I build a tape bushing it is never perfectly flat on the edges (lots of little gaps) to hold epoxy.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> No I won't use drywall mesh. I find it too messy
> and hard to handle and fit.


It tacks down almost immediately with a couple of drops of superglue. You just set your caliper to the inside diameter of your seat and check for size like any part. Cut it when the diameter is right and tack that end with a couple of more drops. I always start and stop at the same spot to stay concentric. I think this is much simpler and stronger than masking tape or foam bushings. The open weave takes the epoxy and keeps it neatly in place.

"When I build a tape bushing it is never perfectly flat on the edges (lots of little gaps) to hold epoxy."

I make them as tight/hard as I can get them. Never had an issue.

This is a bit off topic but it does involved the subject of masking tape bushings. If you are attempting to sell a rod to a customer and you tell him you use masking tape bushings to support and center the seat, versus using urethane foam or glass drywall tape bushings, which do you think your customer would choose? I know that carefully made tape bushings will work in most instances outside of really heavy duty saltwater applications but what do you think enters a customers mind when you attempt to market an expensive custom rod to him and tell him that you use masking tape for the seat bushings? Just something to chew on.

I think the answer is obvious, they probably wouldn't like to know masking tape was used. But I highly suspect no one is going to ask that question and I wouldn't offer. . If they were to ask before the build I could switch if I had planned on a masking tape arbor. If they were to ask after the build I would tell them that I've never had a failure, that I totally encapsulate so no water gets to it, that masking tape used in this fashion is hard, strong, and durable, and that my warranty will cover any failure of the seat to blank bond.

If I were to show a prospective buyer how fragile a urethane foam arbor is before installation, they might not trust it, either.

I really think that masking tape installed correctly will work on any rod application. But I get your point.

Michael, I totally get your reason for posting this thread. The reason I bought my jewelers scale, and the reason I've posted the weights of various components in the past, is for the same reason you posted this thread. I wanted to show that maybe some of the things builders worry about weight wise, don't add up to what they think they might.

I've had more than a few "you gotta be kidding me" moments when I've seen someone speak about things they won't do, just because they don't want to add weight to their fishing rod. Like never using trim bands on guide wraps, because of the extra weight they add?

I could buy the argument that weight added in the guide train is leveraged weight, and has a greater affect than weight at or behind the reel seat, but come on ...... at some point it just becomes ridiculous.

And I think you'd agree.

what size and how many masking tape arbors do you guys use on a reel seat.

I've only used masking tape as arbors once, that being on the rod I mentioned above where I used an XO skeleton grip. I used 1/8" wide masking tape for the arbors, and spaced them about 1/4" apart.

I use two 3/4 inch arbors, placed almost to each ends of the spin seat. For foam arbors I go full length.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2024 08:55AM by Michael Danek.

Over the years, I have used masking tape for arbors frequently.
Each of the arbors are sealed and have never had an issue with either faiure or notiable objectionable weight.

Plus, as the originator stated - masking tape is a really easy way to build an arbor.

Best wishes.

David Parsons Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> what size and how many masking tape arbors do you
> guys use on a reel seat.


I use three 3/4”. One near each end and one in the center.

May be too late. I used to repair rods for a bait shop. Lots of rods with tape arbors would break loose causing the reel seat to freely spin 360. Had to drill holes and inject epoxy in to fix. Tape is slippery so if tape arbors are used I suggest a dremel wheel cutter to score the tape for better grip of the seat. - Hope it helps.

Marcus McCleery

Marcus, they don't deteriorate if you totally encapsulate them and if your joints are all water tight. The latter is not as important as the former. There is a long history of successfully using them. I expect the ones you saw were factory rods where skimping on materials and epoxy is quite common.

I was not advocating them; simply clarifying the weight issue. I prefer rigid polyurethane, but at times, especially with a small gap, masking tape makes sense. But even big ones work if you do it right.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/20/2024 04:04PM by Michael Danek.