Because I build so few rods, and because the first reamers I ever used for my cork handles/grips were simple grit reamers, I continue to use them to this day. I have several that have gotten pretty sparse over time, and I would like to recoat them if I could. I have the grit I intend to use, but I'm not at all sure what to use for epoxy or how to apply it or the grit. I have seen references that call for applying the epoxy, then sprinkling the grit like one might apply salt and pepper. WAY too little information for me.

First off, can I apply new grit over old grit...ie...does the old grit have to be removed from the blank? Should the epoxy be thin or thick? How would I apply it? Any particular epoxy? My original reamers were pretty darn round and of course tapered. How does one obtain that nice round contour of grit down the length of the blank? Should the precured products be rotated on a rod dryer?

Any information on materials or technique would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Ernie,
I'm glad that someone besides me appreciates a good simple "grit reamer".
Sandpaper wrapped reamers do not work for me because I cut my bushings into 4 equal pieces - about 1" each.
The sandpaper reamers do not ream true because of the grooves.

I made my own tapered grit reamer from a tapered sandpaper reamer with sandpaper removed.

First - in my opinion - I think that will find it easier to as I did instead of trying to remove the grit from your current reamer.

Have you beed reaming other than cork and foam arbors?? Like wood spacers?

Anyway - IMO the epoxy that you should use is West System Gflex 650. It flows well but is stiff enough to hold its shape - YES - you will have to put it on a dryer, And you should determine how you will do this BEFORE the start the process.

Unpeel the old sandpaper and remove the residual adhesive with acetone and sandpaper.

Lay the reamer shaft on a newspaper or - better - piece of plastic sheating.

Brush the GFlex 650 onto the shaft.

Immediately sprinkle a liberal amount of medium grit onto the shaft.
Rotate the shaft and sprinkle some more.
Continue until all covered.

Now - wearing disposible gloves - press the grit into the epoxy by squeezing the reamer with your full hand while working your way up the shaft.

Once the epoxy is cured - tap the reamer on a hard surface to remove the loose grit.
You're now good to go.
Herb Ladenheim
CTS



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2024 09:35PM by Herb Ladenheim.

Thanks Herb! Couple of questions...

When dusting with the grit, is the reamer shaft lying on the table and you are rolling it until it gets covered...or do you have it suspended in the air by one hand while dusting with the grit in the other? Then, once you give it the squeeze, will any "waves' you might instill on it disappear once on the dryer? I am assuming that by the way you describe the technique, the grit will only be essentially a single layer thick. Is that so?

Herb gives good advice. If you are ever planning on using the reamer with a power drill, I would use an epoxy that can tolerate high frictional heat without breaking down. Many epoxies begin to break down at temperatures above 150 degrees F. I don’t know the heat resistance for the West System epoxy, but I have used JB Weld epoxy with good results for bonding the grit onto the reamer. It can withstand temperatures up to 550 degrees F.
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2024 10:15PM by Norman Miller.

Ernie.
Lying horizontal.
Some epoxy may "leak" out to capture more grit.
Try to apply epoxy evenly and not overly thick to eliminate what you are concerned about.
If you apply epoxy evenly and squeeze evenly - you will be fine.
Knock and wipe excess grit off
Herb

Ernie,
Good question.
Do you use it as a power reamer??
I don't know heat tolerance.
But used a butane torch on a reel seat and epoxy held but foam arbor melted
H

Thank you guys. I will give it a go. I will either try to clean off my old reamers, or likely visit my local flea market that always has numerous old fishing rods for sale for a few bucks. I'll clean one up, cut it into appropriate sections, and start from scratch!

I thought you wanted a one piece reamer.
Otherwise you can buy the Mudhole reamer ser
Herb

Herb..."I thought you wanted a one piece reamer."

I'm not sure what that means Herb, but I have several grit reamers that I have been using for years. They are of different diameters and tapers. They are getting worn, and I want to revive them as needed. I was just looking for the technique. You seem to have come up with it. I just thought that instead of stripping them to accomplish my goal, I could just as easily get an old rod with a diameter/taper close to the blank I intend to build next, cut it where applicable, apply the grit....and have a reamer for the job at hand.

No good?

Perfectly O.K.
It's just that the taper ohn a rod nlank is so gentle that you will need more than one.
I only build fly rods - the reamer I use has a taper that is aggressive enough to only need one reamer.
But your way is Perfectly acceptable.
I do have a set of the Mudhole reamers - 4 of them ' but rarely use them.
I find that my one reamer produces better results.
That's why I suggested that you modify a sandpaper reamer.
H