Does anyone use countertop epoxy for rod building? Specifically for sealing thread wraps. Not the store bought 5 min stuff, but the 1:1 mixed epoxy like people use on tumbler cups and counter tops. Thanks.

Generally no. It'll work but tends to yellow more quickly and worse than what is sold specifically for thread.

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I didn’t think about yellowing. I was curious if it would be too hard and not flex. enough.

All epoxies are going to turn yellow to some extent. The interior wood product epoxies are among the worst so I'd suggest sticking with those intended for use on rods.

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Along with what Tom wrote about rod finishes, I also recommend sticking with syringes, self sealing caps, mixing cups, foil cups, plastic sticks, and applicators standard to rod building. The entire set of that stuff doesn’t add up to very much while easily and reliably working. To have to start over on wrapping a rod because a few bucks were saved would be very disappointing. Decades of evolution and innovation are behind the products and supplies we get to use today.

All great input. I myself use flex coat primarily. I read somewhere where someone mentioned epoxy for bar tops and jewelry making. I was just curious what the folks with a vast amount of knowledge on this forum had to say about it. Thanks all for the advice.
Rich

What Kendall said.

An option you can see videos of on YouTube are to use Clear Gorilla Glue. No mixing. Have not tried it. Search you tube. But must get the clear stuff.

I find, for myself that I do everything by weight, I have the Amazon $15 scale that does grams to 3 places. I called companies to get the weight ratio for products. I put the catalyst in first using corker caps and usually very precise in drop weight. When I get a weight for the catalyst I multiple by the product factor, tare the scale and add resin.

I do all my mixing in glass, shot glasses for fly rods, stir using a metal dental spatula. Cleaning the glass is simple after use, wipe out unused portion, wipe and rinse with isopropyl alcohol, the wash with soap and water. Less than a minute for the cleanup including the brush.

We all find ways that seem to work for use.

Mike

The epoxy manufacturers have made it easy and formulated rod building epoxies to be mixed by volume. No math, no scales. Just 1 to 1 by volume.


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I find it best to use syringes, one for each epoxy bottle, and draw at least 1.5 cc's per syringe to ensure a good 50/50 mix. If you draw less than that you risk missing 50/50. Yes, with a 3 cc total final mix you likely will have a fair amount left over, at least on a fly rod, but you will know you have a good mix.

There are products from companies not involved in rod building that can certainly work. For instance, the West Systems line of epoxies from Gougen Brothers are very sophisticated as they literally hold many boats together. They used to not sell their products in hobby rod building appropriate sizes, but now they do. Certainly, a one ounce shot glass is as good as a plastic cup of the same volume. Still, most of the time I’m going to support the companies that support rod building as I’m probably ordering from them already. I’ve probably benefited from their instructional videos at some point and their stocking of critical items that don’t keep the lights on by themselves. Most of the time there isn’t much of a money savings while taking additional risks by improvising. A 100 pack of the mixing cups cost slightly less than 32 ounces of isopropyl alcohol. It takes petrochemicals and other resources to make the alcohol which usually comes in a non-refillable plastic container that is many times heavier than the 100 cups.

On top of the alcohol and its relatively massive container, there also has to be a waste management stream for the byproducts of cleaning glass containers that have held epoxies. How does this relate to the cups with set-up epoxy going into a land fill? This could vary a lot from the liquid slurry going down the drain to it getting immersed into other solid waste that goes to the same landfills. My point here is that the environmental and water quality footprint is likely better for using industry standard products for rod building than by improvising the other stuff. It’s just hard to beat proportions and packaging specifically designed for a purpose.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2024 01:11AM by Kendall Cikanek.