I want to cut down a graphics reel seat a bit at the top of the threading. What is the best way to get a clean cut?

Thanks in advance.

Wrap a piece of masking tape around the seat barrel at the point where you wish to cut it. Take a hacksaw or better yet, a fine tooth hobby saw, and cut the barrel using the tape as a straightedge. Then run the end of the seat against a disc sander to smooth and true it. If you have a disc sander with a square, it's very easy to get the end perfect.

Beyond that there are small chop type saws that will make clean cuts. You also employ the stand-by Dremel with a cut-off wheel but you'll want to go back and square and true the end.

One thing you absolutely must do - before making the cut, be sure that you have enough barrel left so that you can still extend the hood far enough to allow you to insert the reel foot into the seat.

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Along with what Tom said, if you’re a visual person (I am), there’s also a good video on FlexCoat’s website with Roger Seider demonstrating how he does it with a chop saw.

I use a coping saw with a fine tooth blade to do the cutting. Or you could use a hack saw.

As far as making sure the cut is square, I use an old locking nut / hood combination and install it on the seat, lining up the end with where I want to cut it, and just go to cutting. To check to see if I need to true it up, I just back off the locking nut and see how its' edge compares with the end of the thread barrel.

If I need to true up the end of the barrel I just put a piece of 220 grit sand paper on a flat surface and sand it by hand. Once I'm satisfied I just take the old lock nut/ hood assembly off. Not that it's that difficult, but taking off the hood assembly cleans up any little pieces of thread barrel that may be hanging on.

It's simple to do really.

Thanks guys helpful. Like the locking nut idea

I just buzz the ends off on the bandsaw with a 10-14 tpi blade, then I’d place a piece of 220 grit sand paper on a board, hold the seat perpendicular and sand it in circles a bit to smooth any roughness if needed a Xacto can clean up any straggling bits

If you have a lathe or drill, think about this;

Before you start make sure you fit the reel you plan to use before deciding on the final length.

Cut the seat with a fine blade hobby saw close to the final length.

Make an arbor from a wood dowel, slip the arbor in the reel seat with the end of the arbor recessed from the end the seat.

Chuck the arbor assembly in the drill or lathe.;

Use a block of wood with Emory and dress the end of the seat so it is smooth and parallel to the other end of the seat.



Have fun

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You can also use a cheap plastic mitre box from the hardware store to keep your cut square. Cut it 1/8 longer than you want it, use a block with sandpaper to do the last bit. Gives you room to straighten it out and make it look fished without ending up short.

I use a 12” Dewalt miter saw, 80 tooth fine blade. I can’t get a clean cut trying to do it by hand. You would have to shim the seat to keep it level. Same setup also does a good job getting straight cuts on graphite tubes, inserts, and blanks. I cut all my seats, unless I’m using a foregrip.

With reference to all of the above, I recently measured twice, then messed up the cut.

Once I filed it flat, it was too short.

So… measure in a little error factor…