Howdy. I've recently stumbled across several discussions on here regarding the Fuji ECSM reel seats where builders mention arboring the top of the seats as they aren't sized to fit the blank on the top side.

Is this necessary? I've made many rods with these seats without issue so far but I am a relative novice compared to folks on here.

Should I be arboring the top? And, if anyone has had issues with these seats in the past, what failures or problems have you encountered when NOT using an arbor?

Thanks!

Patrick - I do not use an arbor with that seat as I normally super glue a Fuji WCS check at the top of the barrel (normally a 1/2 size smaller than the seat ID size). I then put my epoxy 6" or so higher than where my seat will sit and rotate it down so that the barrel gets filled with epoxy. I stop short of the grip to remove any excess before I push over the tenon on the rear grip. Hope this makes sense...Casey

Thanks Casey. That's basically what I've been doing.

I arbor the barrel end of the ECSM reel seat with a 1” piece of polyurethane foam arbor and then ream it to fit the blank. It works for me and I think the foam arbor is lighter than the gob of epoxy needed to fill the gap. Never had a failure doing it this way.
Norm

The oddball thing about the ECSM is that it’s fitted at the base, and not at the threaded end. The trigger end is narrower than the threaded barrel end, so, if you lather up the blank with extra epoxy thinking that the excess will fill the cavity on the threaded end, the trigger end (being narrower) will squeegee out all that excess glue not leaving enough behind to completely fill the threaded barrel end. Sure, some can be packed in there, after the fact, and the winding check will seal that little bit in… but it’s just a little bit, it might hold up, it might not. I just arbor the threaded end too. It doesn’t take much, just enough to center that end of the seat.

In 40 years I've seen the threads collapsed on 2, don't know how it happened, didn't ask, but neither had an arbor, I arbor mine like Norm. My favorite exposed blank reel seats have no need for arbors or glue dams.

Spencer Phipps Wrote:
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> In 40 years I've seen the threads collapsed on 2,
> don't know how it happened, didn't ask, but
> neither had an arbor, I arbor mine like Norm. My
> favorite exposed blank reel seats have no need for
> arbors or glue dams.


Care to share your favorite exposed blank reel seats?

I also went and checked a Kistler rod I have with an ECSM seat and they don't arbor or pack the top of the reel seat or even use a winding check for that matter. No that it means you should or shouldn't, just thought it was an interesting bit of info from on of the higher end rod manufacturers.

The Fuji ACSM exposed blank reel does not require an arbor. It is sized to fit the blank though out its length. It has internal ribs that make firm contact with the blank. If needed it can be easily reamed. I think Hydra also makes an internally ribbed exposed blank reel seat. Also two piece casting reel seats are exposed blank reel seats. I used to use a lot of the PacBay Minima casting reel seats, but they are difficult to find any more. The Alps MVT is sized in the front half of the reel seat and the back end requires an insert
Norm

The Alps MVT reel seat is my favorite casting reel seat. Based on my experience with them, the insert at the back that Norman mentioned, is a sized ID as well. I know when I've had to ream them to fit, the reamer is reaming the inside of the insert as well as the ribs in the thread tube.

By using an arbor you will do a better job at installing an ESCM reel seat than Kistler does. If I remember correctly Kistler uses a hidden thread hood to hide the end of the reel seat. In my opinion, by not using an arbor Kistler saves both time and money in making a rod.
Norm

Norman Miller Wrote:
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> By using an arbor you will do a better job at
> installing an ESCM reel seat than Kistler does. If
> I remember correctly Kistler uses a hidden thread
> hood to hide the end of the reel seat. In my
> opinion, by not using an arbor Kistler saves both
> time and money in making a rod.
> Norm

Yes they do use a cut down KDPS hood with a small piece of EVA that hides the end of the reel seat. I certainly don't take their construction methodology as gospel, just noted as a data point. Any mass produced rod is going to factor costs into the equation moreso than a custom build.

I just measured the ID of both ends of a 13.5 mm MVT casting reel seat.

13.46 mm between the ribs in the thread barrel.

13.52 mm for the ID of the woven graphite insert at the rear of the seat.

The Fuji ESCM 16 requires an arbor at the threaded end as stated, however the size 17 is sized full length and requires no arbor.

If nothing else a glued in and reamed arbor dramatically increases your glued up surface area over an empty tube or glue dam.
Patrick, I like the Wiebe/Super Sticker and Castaway exposed blank reel seats. I only have 3 Wiebe triggers left, but 19 spinning seats and I have a couple of the trigger/wood insert seats along with 4 one gallon Ziplock bags full of Castaway trigger seats still.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/12/2024 01:32AM by Spencer Phipps.