Johan,
You are very much on track with your thinking if you have done some studying on the KR Concept and NGC. These principles and designs are based around line management, reduced weight, and casting efficiency. The basic principles will work with any brand of guide you want to use - however, some brands work better than others for my favorite, Fuji's KR Concept.. One person I highly respect as a builder tried to mimic the KR Concept with Am Tac guides, and found that it was very difficult if not impossible. That is not saying Am Tac guides are not excellent, however, if you are interested in a KR Concept build, the frame heights are not optimal for this configuration.
I am a fan of the Fuji KR Concept because the important Reduction Train Guides were designed to work together in groups of three or four. Since your rod is long and limber in action, I would look at the "3 choking guides + high profile belly guide specification" found on one of the Fuji charts on-line. (I will try and find that link and post it here.) [
www.fujitackle.eu]
This chart recommends two potential reduction train set ups for a rod like you describe:
A.) KL-20H; KL-10H; KL-7M; and KL-6L (for mono up to #12)
This group of four reduction guides would be followed by one or two KB series running guides and then KT running guides up to size 6 rings on out to the tip.
and
B.) KL-25H; KL-12H; KL-8M; and KL-7L (for mono up to #14) Same as above for the KB and KT guides up to a size 7 ring. You can always increase the ring size of the tip top if you need for weed control.
Seaguide also makes a series that mimics the Fuji guides closely with their XOHG; XOMG; and XOLG guides. Pac Bay Match guides also work.
On a ten foot rod, I would recommend around 12 or 13 guides total + tip top - or up to 14 if my two-line static test showed the rod needed it.
My Quick Initial Set-up for spacing goes like this:
Temporarily place all the guides with a mind to move them if needed.
1.Place Butt Guide (1st guide) around 20 inches from the spool axel tip at mid stroke.
2.Place Choke Guide (4th guide) around 20 inches from Butt Guide. (Since your rod is a 10-footer, the choke guide may be placed further out. Fuji recommends measuring from the butt guide to the rod tip, multiply by 4.5, and placing the choker this distance from the butt guide.)
3. Place remaining reduction guides between butt and choker. Bullseye them when viewed through the butt guide.
4. Place a KT running guide 3.5 to 4 inches from the tip top.
5. Progressively space the remaining running guides between the choker and running guide placed near tip top.
6. Move ANY guide as needed to get the spacing you want.
7. Static test and/or test cast. Adjust guides again as needed.
Or, start with the Angler's Resource KR GPS Calculator (found in the left margin). This will give you a solid starting point for placement. If you want to use the 3+1 train, simply place the fourth guide in the same location as the Choker guide recommended spacing. 'Bullseye' these guides.
You can also use a line from the spool axel tip to the Choker to help with spacing between the butt guide and choker guide. Move the guides to line up with the line and bullseye each other.
Hope this helps you! I enjoy carp fishing. Very sporting quarry (can be wary as any trout and strong as some saltwater fish).
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2024 01:28PM by Les Cline.
