This has likely been covered, so I apologize if this is a repeat.

This is a 2 part question. Building on an NFC X-Ray matte blank. I have yet to apply a decal to a rod yet and I want to insure the best success that I can. I've seen a few videos where the blank is more or less prepped with a very thin lay of epoxy first and then applying the decal after words. I've also seen it done with no prep.
What do experienced guys use as a judgement as to when and when not to apply an epoxy base coat first.

I have also noticed people will place a wrap on both sides of a decal. I like the look, but I'm wondering if there is a second purpose to this. For instance, are you/they placing the decal on the rod and then wrapping over the edges of the decal to prevent it from curling up/sealing the edges to protect the decal for a longer lasting look.

Finally is how long is to long to apply a second or possibly a 3rd coat of epoxy. The rod I'm building is ready for epoxy. But my schedule isn't really allowing me to have 2 back to back days were I can apply a second coat 24 hours after the initial coat. Trying to determine if I should epoxy the rod before starting another one, or just start the other rods and wait to epoxy when I know I can have to back to back days for applying multiple coats as needed.

On any blank that is not sanded smooth and painted, I would put at least one coat of thread epoxy in the decal area. On LMX fly blanks I have done two thin base coats prior to decal. Put on the decal, and at least two coats after that. It is not easy to get a real smooth coat with just one coat. on such a long area. People will often apply a wrap on the upward end of the decal or at both ends as a way of bookending the decal and avoiding a humped look to the epoxy if over the decal only. And they may integrate the decal above a hook keeper, thus only needing one wrap at the upper end.

Take a look at how Winston does it on their calligraphy and hook keeper area. I don't like to go that thick a build up, but if you want it to be thick you may have to use multiple coats and treat with fine sand paper to smooth out before the final coat(s).[creeksideangling.com]

I don't particularly like the look of a decal over a sanded, natural gray graphite blank. I usually frame the location of the decal with a short decorative wrap and apply a very light of coat of epoxy over the wraps and the decal location. After the epoxy "cures" overnight, I'll apply and burnish the decal and then apply a light epoxy coat to the wraps and the decal. Most manufacturer decals adhere well to the epoxy and I don't have decal lifting issues. The Epson K-Sun labels are a different matter, however. They are thicker and without an epoxy bed, even on a clear gloss or painted blank, the edges show and I've frequently had the decals lift without "tacking" down the edges with some CP. The CP and epoxy coat does a pretty good job of hiding the edges. This has been my experience, your mileage may differ.

Tony,

I've built my fair share of X-ray blanks. A simple base coat of epoxy before applying the decal will do the trick, then another coat or two over it as a finish. All the thread work I've done is decorative to frame the area, never wrapped over a decal. Decals will adhere fine to your base coat and I haven't had any longevity or lifting issues with the NFC labels. Do yourself a favor and make sure the epoxy is cured and no longer tacky when you go to put the decal on. I've gone as far a 4 days between coats with no issues using ProKote, anything longer than that I'd probably hit it with some 1200 grit. Do a search and unbound the time at the bottom of the search window, plenty of threads and opinions on epoxy timelines.

If you haven’t used decals before, make sure you remove the outer protective layer of the decal. The NFC decals are a sandwich decal, with the center portion being the actual decal. You remove the bottom film to expose the adhesive so you can stick the decal to the blank. Once on the blank the outer protective layer allows you to burnish the decal to the blank to make sure the decal is completely adhered. Once burnished in place the outer layer is removed. These type of decals are very thin, and once epoxy is applied the edges are not noticeable. When I use a decal, I like to frame it on both sides with a small trim wrap, just to set it off and give a finished look. The reason I mention this is because some newbies don’t realize there is a top protective decal layer. If it’s not removed it will lift when epoxy is applied.
Norm

To help with decal work you can pre condiiton the decal, by first wrapping the decal around a drill bit (the top of the drill bit so that the decal is on smooth metal) - that is undersize. You can do an over wrap of thread or tape or what ever to secure it in place. THis just preconditions the decal to have a nice round shape that will lie tight against the decal.

I also do a thread wrap at each end of the decal, overwrapping the ends of the decal by about three threads.

This gives absolute certainity that you will not have lifted ends on the decal.

I personally do not put any epoxy on the rod blank before applying the decal.

On my builds I generally only use one coat of high build flex coat and the rod comes out very well.

But, to each his own.

I’m not very good at finishing decals. Struggle getting them on without creases, have had them lift on the edges, and put too much epoxy on them. I wrap em around a sharpie with a rubber band for a few days and use as little epoxy as possible now. What frustrates me sometimes is there are voids that won’t fill in regardless of how much epoxy I put on them. Must have a contaminant on the blank.

Sam, your process is by your own report defective. And keep in mind that all decals are not the same. The NFC decals and Decal Connection decals should be handled as Norman writes.

First, your blank should be smooth and clean, don't clean it with alcohol or any other liquid, just a light buff with something like a Skotchbrite pad, then wipe clean of dust with a paper towel or similar.

Apply your decal.

Burnish it down aggressively with your thread burnishing tool, protecting it from damage with a clean paper buffer between the burnish tool and the decal. Focus on the edges.

Seal the edges and the whole decal if you like with CP.

THEN apply epoxy. I like a thin coat first, then I can clean up any dust or other problems, then the next coat. I would rather do multiple thin coats than one thick one, but whatever works, do it.

Thanks for the tips. I’m getting better,but appreciative of your info.