I’ve been practicing tying my KB’s and KT’s on some practice blanks and the KT’s are really loose after tying.
I’m considering using all KB’s to the tip because it has a bigger footprint and a lot easier to work with. I’m using size 6.
Are there any concerns or issues that I should be aware of. Thanks and appreciate any input you may have.
Brent Murray

Brent - only issue is that you will be adding a tiny bit extra weight (from Guide, Wrap, and Epoxy) out toward the tip with the KB's rather than KT's. More of an issue on a lighter power rod given how small the KB's are it is difficult to say if you will notice the difference.

With the smaller KT's results improve with practice. A couple of tips that folks on here gave me:
1. Make sure your blank is well supported otherwise you may be getting a bit of flex that can lead to loose wraps.
2. In addition to whatever means you use to hold your guides on add some tape just beyond guide (toward tip). Make several wraps of tape so that the guide can't move toward the tip while you are starting to climb the guide foot on your wrap.

With proper thread tension, I wouldn't expect any guides to be "really loose". Also, I am assuming that that is what "locking wraps" are for.

I’ve never had a need for locking wraps on the Fuji (they have a locking “nub” on their guide foot that effectively holds the guide in). If it’s unraveling, you4 tension just isn’t high enough. Also, you will need more threads for your pull throughs (unlike in the wider section of the blanks). I put my pull through just past that “nub” on the foot. If it’s loose, retie. You’ll get the hang of the correct tension.

KB's also have wider feet. Depending on the OD of the tip where the last guide would go, the KB's foot may be wider than the diameter of the tip. I just measured the width of the foot of a KB 5.5. The foot is a few thousandths wider than 5/64s. That could very well make it a no go for blanks with tips of 4.5 or under. It just depends on the taper of the blank, and the distance from the tip of the blank.

I agree with John, you just need to practice. I know that wrapping out near the tip can be problematic because of its' flexibility, but you need to figure out a way. A guide should never be"really loose" after wrapping it.

Learning what you need to do will be frustrating, but you can do it.

Thanks for the responses. I’ve had a little issue with prepping the guides. Took a little too much off of the feet on some of them. Live and learn. I agree, if it’s not right rewrap. Yes I was wrapping on the fatter end of the blank, so that is probably an issue.
Kevin, thanks for the reminder, I always try to keep that in mind.
Ernie, I’ve been thinking about that and I am going to try the locking wrap to see what it looks like.
John, I do like putting the pull loop through at about 10-12 loops to hide everything, and with the flex at the end I’ve been trying to use my thumb and for finger to hold the correct tension as the tip and the tensioning rod really flex at times.
David, thanks for the response, I have learned through practice over the last couple months that the tip is a lot different animal than the mid or butt section. The KB’s and KT’s are also a different animal than I’ve been practicing with. And after much thought I agree that the KB’s foot print will be to wide for the diameter of the blank as it progresses towards the tip.
I’ll keep practicing until my blanks show up, and I really appreciate your input. Practice makes perfect, and that’s what I’m shooting for, or else I would have saved a lot of money and time and bought the rods a a store. LOL
This process has been very therapeutic and relaxing time for me. I have spent many hours trolling this and other sites looking for information and tips and tricks, trying some of them and figuring out what works for me. To all the other newbies out there, don’t get frustrated. I thrive on learning from doing, and learning from mistakes makes you better at what you do, IF YOU REALIZE WHAT YOU DID WRONG!
Thanks for the responses, will keep you updated on the progress.

I can't imagine the need to do any filing / prep to the Fuji KB/KT's...... at least not if we're talking about sizes 6 and under (and even then....)

Michael Ward Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I can't imagine the need to do any filing / prep
> to the Fuji KB/KT's...... at least not if we're
> talking about sizes 6 and under (and even
> then....)


I use fuji RV6 for butt guide but use kb5 and kt5 for the rest on all my casting rods. I always sand and prep my guide feet and it definitely makes a difference, not only in appearance (it greatly reduces the hump going from blank to guide foot) but also helps keep size A threads from wanting to jump off the feet back to the blank when climbing up the guide foot.

As far as the OPs question, no issue using KBs all the way, but I can't think why you'd need to. If you're having trouble with guides being loose, try to fix your technique before substituting an unnecessary component.

I usually touch the ends of KBs and KTs with a file as well. Only takes a couple swipes and as Patrick said it makes a difference. At least to me.

Add tip support, a dab of guide glue, and tightening up your wraps. Keep your hands clean…

Issues are starting to work themselves out. Thanks for all the info.

Brent, good to hear.

Practice makes perfect! My builds are far from perfect but get better every time.

I think Tom mentioning that KB guides tend to fail more often than KT’s when used as running guides. When under load the KB’s tend to pull from the wraps. I may have misunderstood but I think that’s what he said.